90 Ranger won't start after spark plug change

Hello All,

I'm in need of some expert advice :). I recently changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor on my wife's 90 Ford Ranger, and now it's turning over, but it won't start. I believe it has to deal with some hoses that become disconnected, but I don't what the hoses are for or where they go. A side effect of being a beginning do-it-yourselfer, I guess.

I have checked a couple of manuals, but they don't seem to care enough about those particular parts to describe what they are. One of the hoses is extremely small with maybe a 1/16'' opening which runs from the driver's side of the engine over towards the air filter on the passenger's side and the other is a rather large tube (1/2" opening or so) that runs from an oddly shaped cylinder on the driver's side next to the brake fluid reservoir. Both hoses I believe connect to the intake manifold on the driver's side, but as I said, I am not sure as to the order.

Any help would be very much appreciated, part names, locations, whatever. The engine is a 2.9L V6. If you need any other information, please let me know.

Thanks

Well, I talked with a mechanic and he said the vacuum hoses that came undone would only make the truck run rough or miss, but should not keep it from starting. I ran tests on the fuel pump and injectors, and it gives me a spark, but it still won't turn over, and it's even stumped the mechanic :).

Could I still get a spark if one of the spark plugs was bad enough not to allow the truck to start?

Well, I talked with a mechanic and he said the vacuum hoses that came undone would only make the truck run rough or miss, but should not keep it from starting. I ran tests on the fuel pump and injectors, and it gives me a spark, but it still won't turn over, and it's even stumped the mechanic :).

Could I still get a spark if one of the spark plugs was bad enough not to allow the truck to start?

You stated the fuel pumps and injectors were tested, but never gave the result.. Since you have spark, have you tried to spray any carb cleaner or something flammable into the upper intake plenum? Just remove the bigger hose and spray some in there and crank it over. If it runs, you're got a fuel delivery problem.

Does it crank a few times, pop, then not do anything after that? If so, the timing is 180 degrees off and is firing when the exhaust value is open. You can verify this by if the engine is flooding out really bad and you unhook the fuel pump you just gets lots of popping out of the exhaust.

I would sanity check it. Find top dead center, make sure the rotor is pointing on the #1 wire on the distributor cap. The crank turns 2 times for every single turn of the camshaft.

To find top dead center, take out #1 spark plug. (Passenger side front plug.) Turn the harmonic balancer (pulley on the end of the crank) with a breaker bar or something *CLOCKWISE* as you're facing the front of the engine. (do not spin backwards, if you miss it, start over. You might make the timing chain jump a tooth going the wrong way). Put your finger up to and against the #1 spark plug hole until you feel air beginning to push out (it will push well). This indicates you're close. Look on the harmonic balancer and line the marker on the block to the T.C. mark. You're on #1 top dead center at this point.

If everything checks out, run the codes:
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

Pete

Sorry about that. The pumps and the injectors all passed their tests. My mechanic also suggested putting some oil into the intake, which I did, but no luck.

It actually does crank a few times and then pop, but it still won't start. So, I will try what you said and see if it I can get it to work, and will let you know the results.

It's really funny how much you can learn about these things in only a few days.

Thanks Pete

Pete,

Right before I started the test you described, I double checked the spark plug wires and discovered that the wires were in the wrong order. After fixing those, the popping noise went away.

She still won't start, but the cranking is a lot smoother now, so it feels like I took one step in the right direction for a change. Should I still check for "dead center"?

Pete,

Right before I started the test you described, I double checked the spark plug wires and discovered that the wires were in the wrong order. After fixing those, the popping noise went away.

She still won't start, but the cranking is a lot smoother now, so it feels like I took one step in the right direction for a change. Should I still check for "dead center"?

Sounded like it was definately a timing issue, I usually don't think of the plugs wires because I change them one at a time so I don't have to think about it. :)

Oh, I am sorry, I should have gone in to more detail about what that actually means. Top dead center is then the piston is all the up on the compression stroke. (Both valves are closed, this is why you can feel the air) It's basically about to fire on that cylinder. That is why I recommending finding TDC and checking the rotor on the distributor to make sure spark plug #1 is firing in the correct place on the distributor. Mostly anything that deals with timing involves finding top dead center.

Lets say you find TDC, follow the #1 spark plug wire to the distributor, then see of the rotor is pointing on that wire to spark. If it is, then you'll know that the timing is correct. If not, the wires may need adjusted on the distributor if possible. You might find that maybe the wires are shifted to right or left. This would certainly cause a no start. If you have to remove the distributor, it's a pain to get it seated back in on this perticular engine. Just getting to that stupid distributor alone is pain :).

It may seem strange at first, but once you've done something with TDC, it all makes sence. It's sort of a spot for setting the cam and ignition timing. If you move the distributor at all, be ready to re-time the engine with a timing light. It will have no power if it's off.

As far as the oil, did you just put engine oil in to the intake? It's needs to be some sort of mist, or else it may never fire. I learned that rule when I was a kid building potato guns using hair spray as a propellant. If it was engine oil, it's probably a good thing, your cylinder walls are probably washed out at this point. You may check the oil for gas if it's flooding out a lot. I would recommend changing the oil. If you keep up on the maintance and keep everything in good order, that engine will last a long time. Just never, under any circumstance, EVER over heat the engine just a little. These engines are known for cracking heads under heat. If you notice a slight increase in the running temperature, I would be tempted to remove the radiator and pressure wash out the fins/inside of radiator (I'm kind of hillbilly, but not really, just not afraid to get dirty). I would also have the cooling system flushed to make sure everything is in good order. Sometimes the heater core can get a little plugged and cause issues if you have a lot of rust in the coolant.

Pete

So, and forgive my novice questions, the rotor returns to the same spot every time you turn off the car? So it should be pointing to the #1 spot every time I look under the distributor cap?

So, and forgive my novice questions, the rotor returns to the same spot every time you turn off the car? So it should be pointing to the #1 spot every time I look under the distributor cap?

It's not a big deal. Better to learn this way then trial and error like myself.

No. It could be anywhere when you turn the car off. The rotor will point to the #1 spark plug terminal on the distributor when the engine is at top dead center. It's basically a sanity check that the #1 spark plug is firing when it's supposed to. If it's not on #1 on the distributor when #1 piston is at top dead center, the spark plugs are not firing at the correct time.

Pete

Some more questions for you:

If the fuel pump pressure is good and the injectors are firing properly, does that mean the fuel filter is also good?

Can a bad fuel filter cause the truck not to start?

Would gas in the oil keep it from running?

Some more questions for you:

If the fuel pump pressure is good and the injectors are firing properly, does that mean the fuel filter is also good?

Can a bad fuel filter cause the truck not to start?

Would gas in the oil keep it from running?

I'd say it was still good since it would be restricting the fuel flow. If you have 40psi at the rail, it should at least start. It's good to replace them every so often, if they do get a little plugged it makes your fuel pump work harder. It will cause it to fail much earlier, but that's just regular maintence.

Gas in the oil just isn't good for the internals of the engine. It's not a lubricant, so I imagine it would shave years off the life of your engine given it was driven like that for a long time.

Pete

if your plugs are getting wet after as much cranking your doing on this truck you don't have enough spark to start it..and if there is no gas on plugs you have a fuel pump problem somewhere that it's not letting it get to plugs to fire..and on your question on gas in oil not letting it start..it will still start but your eating up your main and rod bearings. always remember no spark no gas no start. but you do need to make sure your rotor butten in cap is pointing to number 1 in cap when you get it on top dead center.. (tdc)....

good luck.......

RICK.....

Thanks Rick. That was actually what I was going to look at next was to see if the plugs had gotten too wet.

OK, latest update. I checked the spark plugs, one of them was rather wet, but not that wet. The rest of them were rather dry, but they did smell of fuel which I am assuming is a good thing. Tried to start it again after placing the plugs back in, but no go.

So far the only recommendation that I havent done is find TDC. And I have a couple of questions about that.

1. Pete, you said that the harmonic balancer is on the end of the crank. Is there anything coming out of that pulley? Am I going to have to take something off to get to it?

2. What is the mark on the block going to look like?

3. And what does T.C. stand for?

OK, latest update. I checked the spark plugs, one of them was rather wet, but not that wet. The rest of them were rather dry, but they did smell of fuel which I am assuming is a good thing. Tried to start it again after placing the plugs back in, but no go.

So far the only recommendation that I havent done is find TDC. And I have a couple of questions about that.

1. Pete, you said that the harmonic balancer is on the end of the crank. Is there anything coming out of that pulley? Am I going to have to take something off to get to it?

2. What is the mark on the block going to look like?

3. And what does T.C. stand for?

I am just guessing that the firing order is off. Meaning, it's probably right, but the #1 plug wire is probably not on the #1 post on the distributor. I wish I could draw it out on a picture. You may have to shift every wire one to the left or right depending if it's even off. For all we know, it could be a problem with the ignition. :)

In other words:
At T.C. or TDC, the #1 spark plug wire should be nearing where it needs to fire. So, when you do find TDC, follow the #1 (passenger front) wire up to the distributor. Remember which post it is and remove the distributor cap. Look at the rotor and make sure it's pointing to the #1 post that you just remembered. If not, shift the wires accordingly.

The harmonic balancer/vibration dampner/etc is the pulley on the end of the crank. (turns 3 belts, all the way at the bottom) If you turn the engine by hand (via 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, it's just a big bolt that threads into the end of the crank that holds the pulley on), you'll notice some markings on it. On the passenger side of the engine, right by the pulley, there's a little pointer that sticks out. It's flat, about a 1/4" wide I think. Your's is going to differ since my Ranger has been modified quite a bit. I've got no emmissions, no A/C, no air box (Custom Intake/MAF Conversion), so it maybe a little harder to see.

T.C. stands for Top Center, or Top Dead Center. I think the Dead is used like, "It's dead on." Or it's perfectly in place. For your purposes, T.C. mark will suffice. It's hard to find absolute TDC without a cam degreeing kit.

Have you had a chance to run the codes, or have the codes ran?
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ Try this if all else fails.

Pete

Thanks for the explanation Pete. It's been raining here off and on for the last couple of days so I haven't been able to get to it, but I should be able to look at it today.

As far as the codes go, I have not checked them, and since the trucks not running, I can't really have them checked :(. I, unfortunately, am very limited on the tools that I have (just a ratchet set and some screwdrivers). My mechanic was nice enough to let me borrow some of his equipment to run some of the tests. It just cost me the gas to go get them.

Ok, I managed to line up the mark on the pulley. Pretty self-explanatory since it had a "TC" on the gauge. Not as hard as I thought it was going to be. It turns out that the plugs were in the correct order on the distributor cap.

I guess the next thing to do is check the codes you referred to Pete and see if they tell me anything.

Ok, I managed to line up the mark on the pulley. Pretty self-explanatory since it had a "TC" on the gauge. Not as hard as I thought it was going to be. It turns out that the plugs were in the correct order on the distributor cap.

I guess the next thing to do is check the codes you referred to Pete and see if they tell me anything.

Man, that sucks. It's gotta be something simple... Especially if you were getting pops with the timing off.

Scanning the codes on that truck is even easier than finding top dead center. Look at the bottom right picture on that link I gave you. It's labeled "Hook up for MIL Check Engine and Lincoln Continental Message Center" and displays one connection from the square STI plug to the top right of the trapizoidal shaped plug.

All you basically do is take a piece of wire, even a paper clip, put one end in the square plug and put the other in that top right plug. All you need to do at that point is get into the truck and turn the key on run. The codes will blink out of the check engine light. Just make sure none of it hits gound.

They don't go into much detail though, when they say "goose test", that means to hit the throttle when it tells you to. You may have to make a few attempts, but once you have it, it's incredibly simple.

Here's some examples. The B indicates when the CEL blinks. The . stands for a short delay in time. They will also be repeated.
B...B..........B...B.... (Code: 11, System Pass)
B.B.B.B.B.B.B.B.B...B.B.B.B.B.B..........B.B.B.B.B .B.B.B.B...B.B.B.B.B.B (Code: 96, Fuel pump monitor failure)

Pete

Pete,

For the codes, which ones should I be looking at. The 2-digit or the 3-digit?

Thanks.

Thanks for the explanation Pete. It's been raining here off and on for the last couple of days so I haven't been able to get to it, but I should be able to look at it today.

As far as the codes go, I have not checked them, and since the trucks not running, I can't really have them checked :(. I, unfortunately, am very limited on the tools that I have (just a ratchet set and some screwdrivers). My mechanic was nice enough to let me borrow some of his equipment to run some of the tests. It just cost me the gas to go get them.

I'm curious. Was the truck running initially before the plugs and wires were changed? If so, then I would take another look at the order of your spark plugs wires.

I did not check it right before I started the work, I now know was a mistake on my part, but it had been running before that. We had the mechanic take a look at it, then drove it back home. It sat for maybe a day or two and then I started working on it.

OK, struck a bit of a snag trying to locate exactly where I am supposed to use the jumper wire. I am assuming that it's in the engine compartment, but where exactly should I be looking?

Forgive my newbishness....

Well I found out when I changed my plugs and wires. It was hard to start and was missing real mad. I found a cracked plug I guess the angle was to great and the socket cracked it maybe check the plugs for cracks.

OK, struck a bit of a snag trying to locate exactly where I am supposed to use the jumper wire. I am assuming that it's in the engine compartment, but where exactly should I be looking?

Forgive my newbishness....

Near, under, around the air box - passenger side (at least on my 88). There will be a plug with a cap that states 'ECC-IV Self Diagnostic' or something similar.

Pete

Thanks for the suggestion Krispy. This weekend, I tried replacing all of the plugs and wires with the old ones and it still didn't start, so I did manage to get another good look at the plugs :).

The thing that is puzzling, is that it's not really missing anymore, just won't start.

That's for the 20 on the box Pete. Will take a look ASAP.

did you replace one wire at a time or take them all off at once? did you set the correct gap on the plugs? if there is no gap or too little of a gap there will be no spark! did you check the number on the plug against the plug number on the radiator support to see if they match?

Pete,

I found the locations for the EEC test. They were unplugged when I found them, which got me thinking. Are they supposed to be plugged in to anything?

Thanks.

OK, update. I ran the tests and these were the results:

(each period counts as 1 sec of time)

1..1....1..1..........1......1..1....1..1

After that, it trails off with nothing for more than 15 seconds. Any thoughts?

OK, update. I ran the tests and these were the results:

(each period counts as 1 sec of time)

1..1....1..1..........1......1..1....1..1

After that, it trails off with nothing for more than 15 seconds. Any thoughts?

I'm like 2000mudder, were the plug wires changed one at a time, or were they are removed at once and then put back on. I still feel like the order of the wires are off. The code if I can decifer it as 11 means that the system passed and no other codes are present.

In a previous post, you mentioned that the engine is not missing anymore, yet it won't start. How can you tell this when it won't run? I'm just a little confused.

The only other thing that I can think of is that I can remember years ago that I put a rotor on 180 degrees from the way that it should be mounted on a small block Chevy. Although the distributor had a square and round notch to align the rotor, I found out that it was possible to mount it backwards. Since, the vehicle was running before, I knew it had to be something with the installation of the rotor. You need to make absolutely sure that your rotor and wires are installed correctly. It sounds like the vehicle was probably running before the work.

Well, perhaps I used the wrong term. Still trying to get the "lingo" down. When I said it didn't miss, what I meant was that before, when I would try to start it, it would pop and be very rough. Once I placed the wires in the right order, at least I think it is the right order (1,4,2,5,3,6), the popping and roughness went away.

Well, perhaps I used the wrong term. Still trying to get the "lingo" down. When I said it didn't miss, what I meant was that before, when I would try to start it, it would pop and be very rough. Once I placed the wires in the right order, at least I think it is the right order (1,4,2,5,3,6), the popping and roughness went away.

I'm guessing that the plug order isn't correct as stuzman suggests. Though, It may be a good idea to look for fuel and spark to make sure another problem hasn't arose.

When you have pop coming out of your exhaust, it's more then likely firing when the exhaust valve is open. It's supposed to fire when the cylinder is @ TC on the compression stroke. This is why I had you check the distributor at top dead center to make sure the cylinder if firing at the correct time on the #1 cylinder. I'm afraid it's the only way to get it right. Is there any possibility that the distributor could have been disturbed?

I would be tempted to pull them all off again and start with putting #1 on TDC and lining the #1 wire up with the prong on the distributor where the rotor is pointing. I'm wondering if you have the order correct, but have the wires in the wrong rotation sequence?

Pete

As far as I know, the distributor was not disturbed. I did my best not to knock/hit it in anyway.

As far as I know, the distributor was not disturbed. I did my best not to knock/hit it in anyway.

Hey Sindicus,

Open your email in your profile and I'll send you a pdf on the wiring of the plug wires. It will show the direction of rotation for the distributor, cylinder numbering, firing order and how to locate TDC if that's needed.

Ok, stuzman, it should be open now. Thanks for the help.

Thought I would give a quick update since I haven't posted in a while. I checked everything on the diagrams that stuzman gave me. Everything was where it should be. One of the guys I work with has offered to help so I will let you know what we find out.

Thanks everyone for your help in this matter.

Well after some time and frustration, I finally managed to get a trailer and haul her in to see the mechanic. He informed me that the distributor had some how flipped 180, which I think someone may have mentioned might be the problem. He also had to replace the brand new plugs I installed because they had become "flooded", I think that was the term he used.

I just wanted to thank everyone for being so helpful with this. If all else, I definitely learned some new things.

Thanks again.

was hoping Stuzman cold send me that PDF too.