push rods

I had to change both head gaskets and I tightened the push rods down and adjusted the lash and put 1 1/2 extra turns on the nut like the book said now my car won't start. I have spark and gas and the timing is right. Could the push rods be too tight? And should I just tighten down the push rods til there is no lash felt? I have a 86 fiero with a 2.8l

Do you get any fire at all? I'm not sure when you say "timing" if you mean spark,valve, or both. Having either the camshaft or distributor timing off just a little will cause some cylinder fire but the engine won't run. Valve lash isn't critical with hydraulic lifters, you'd have to screw it up pretty bad to have problems. Disconnect the coil (in case it would start unexpectedly) and pop the rear tappet cover off and slowly crank the engine over a couple times. If the valves are not operating correctly you'll see. If things appear OK, move on to timing. MAKE SURE the crankshaft is in the correct specified position before adjusting the cam or distributor. Another common error is having the distributor exactly 180 degrees off, popping it out and turning the shaft exactly one half turn will remedy this. Last, and simplest of all, double check that your plug wires are in the right firing order.

I have spark and gas. The valves are operating fine.
I will have to recheck my distributor. Cause all I get is a big bang once in a while my plug wires are in the right spot. Thanks for all the help I will let you know what I find. I'm just waiting on a few lower manifold gaskets right now

It sure sounds like the distributor. One thing I forgot before, If you did not remove the timing chain for any particular reason, your valve timing couldn't have changed. If this is the case, then spark timing would, in fact, be the cause of your headache. Just in case your book is a bit vauge, here's the proper way to time a distributor:
Turn the engine by hand until cylinder #1 is at top dead center on the compression stroke (piston at the top of the bore and both valves are closed) Aline the rotor on the distributor so it is in contact with the socket for cylinder #1's wire when the cap is installed, then insert the distributor into the hole, making sure the rotor stays properly aligned as the distributor gear meshes with the camshaft gear. During this step it is critical that the oil pump driveshaft is properly seated into the bottom of the distributor shaft!!! At this point the engine should start and run well enough to finish dialing in the timing with a timing light. If I remember correctly, to fine tune the timing you must first put the ECM into diagnostic mode (remove the cigarette lighter mounting panel for access to the diagnostic connector. With the engine running, use a small jumper wire or paper clip to connect the two top right-most terminals together. The check engine light should begin to flash rapidly and you'll hear the engine begin to run a bit oddly. This indicates the electronic spark advance has been bypassed, and that's what you want.) and remove the hose on the vacuum advance. Use a small drill bit to plug the hose while it's off.

is your car running right now? if not, i did the same thing youve done, u tighting the push rod nuts with the torgue specs on the book right. well i tried so many times starting the car when i did that, the car wouldnt start because you tighting the nuts to much and it needs air and fuel mixture. alright you need to loosing all the nuts till you get it to sparks. what i did is i tighing the nuts only half way and it made my car start. i believe you have all the timing and getting sparks becasue ive been thru wat you are experiencing right now. plz just try this and itll probably help you out some ways. thanks.

I got my car running thanks alot for all the help I really do appreciate it . The only way my car will start though is if i spray starting fluid in it