Installing my a new cd player and a sub

Ok well im going to go and buy one of these (hopefully order it today)

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Panasonic-In-Dash-CD-Player-CQ-C7301U-/sem/rpsm/oid/116760/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

im gonna get it off ebay, its only 150 there lol

Ok well ya, how do i install the thing? i have a 97 lumina ls. So after i take off the dash and take off the old unit, i just basically plug everything in, mount it (gotta get the din kit with wiring harnesses at target) and thats it?

my dad has an amp that he got for 1 dollar, its a crossfire 10wx2 lol :)

The cd player im getting is 50wx4 or whatever, i wanna either hook up my single pioneer 10or 12 inch sub, or this one box with 2 6 inch (i think 6) subs, or this one with 2 12 inches

BUT could the amp run any of those? could i just hook the sub(s) to the head unit itself?

Im a 16 yr old kid working at Charleys Steakery (fast food type place) and ya i should be getting my check today, which would mostly be spent on my cd player

So....ya, can i hook the sub to the unit? or could i even use the amp?

you will DEFINITELY need an external amp to push any kind of sub.

i couldnt even temporarly hook them up to my head unit?

if i did, would it just act like a speaker or somethin?

Could the 10wx2 amp run it?

the headunit amp will drive it a little, but you won't get a LOT of bass out of the that kinda set up. I have never heard of a amp as small as 10W anymore, maybe it's a 100 watt amp and a 0 got rubbed off.

well it says 10 with no space inbetween the 0 and the w

"10w" lol 10wx2!

so ya if i hook it to the head unit, it would basically act as a normal speaker?

how can i find out the specs of my subs? to see how much power id need?

when hooked to the head unit, would it screw up if i turn up the volume too loud?

if i do decide to get an amp, do i need multi channel? 2 channel? mono? what?

with the head unit, when i install it, Would i have to do any soldering? if i get a wiring harness kit from target?

Some stereos can actually power a couple of small subs and have an option to cut the highs out. And by small, I mean 6.5 inches or smaller. Never EVER underpower a sub. If your stereo doesn't have enough power to run a 12 or a 10 and you go turn it up, it'll distort and it's distortion that will kill your subs. Get a 2 channel amp. If you have only one sub, you can bridge it to mono. If you have 2 subs, then just wire it in stereo. My Profile Baja HA1000 does a nice job driving my two 10s in stereo mode in a bandpass box. The price is right too. They're getting 160 Watts RMS each. Oh, with this amp, if you have two subs, you have to wire in stereo. It will not accept a 2-ohm load in bridge mode.

here are the subs i will be using (one of these)

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/6987/p91600039mw.jpg

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/3985/p91600023hc.jpg

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/44/p91600015qy.jpg

i want to use teh first one, the 3rd one is like 6 inches or so

man im so stupid i just checked the amp again and its 70w!!! x2

theres a scratch right at the bottom of the 7, and lookin at it real quick its like a 1 but i checked again and its 7!!

so ya can a 70w amp run any of the subs?

Kcg, stop giving out false information. If you dont know squat about audio electronics than dont go trying to teach more squat.

was what he was saying not true?

btw heres my amp

http://cgi.ebay.ca/MOSFET-70Wx2-AUDION-CROSSFIRE-AMPLIFIER-CFA142-70x2-AMP_W0QQitemZ5804852264QQcategoryZ18796QQcmdZViewI tem

exact same thing


also ill need a amp wiring kit for the amp correct? Should i just get that on ebay? can you link me to a good one?

I know what I'm talking about and I research this stuff all the time. Look it up on Google. There are all kinds of results saying that underpowering a subwoofer will damage it. I don't mean by playing it at low volume. I'm talking about making a tiny amp push a big woofer or two. I suppose it would be fine if you don't push it too hard. Find out the minimum RMS rating is for that bandpass. That one might be your best bet. Actually, think you'll have plenty of power for that bandpass if you bridge your amp. My bandpass needs a minimum of 70 watts for both 10s. A max of 500 RMS for both with 1000 watts of peak power. So bridge that fucker and run it on that bandpass. I think you'll be good to go.

how do i bridge? connect the headunit amp and the amp together?

Bridging is when you combine both channels on the amp into mono to provide more power. You'll see a think like this on your amp.

-_____BRIDGED_____+

o o o o
- +Speaker- +

The "o"s represent the connection screws. Basically connect only to the outer screws and don't connect anything to the middle screws.

Underpowering a sub will not do a single thing to it. Sending a sub a clipped signal will, underpowering it will not do anything negative to the sub. I think you should research and get your information at more respected sites.

An underpowered amp will cause clipping if you crank it up too much. Apparently, that's not getting through your head.

How about them gains? Oh and re read my first sentence please.

ook so ya normally

Youd hook one speaker to the

left -+

then hook another to the right -+, but to bridge i simply connect left - to right +??

so that would gimme around 140w or so?

how cna find out how many watts my speakers need?

also should i screw the amp to the sub box, a piece of wood (so i dont have to drill my car) or what, i could screw it to the back of the rear seats right?

i couldnt mount it upside down right? because the heat would disipate back up to the amp?

also i should test it all before mounting right?

If you screw the amp to the sub box, I would put a piece of foam inbetween the amp and the box so that it has no chance of rattling...

Don't really care anymore. I'm just going by what I read.

ok i just went in my car and looked at stuff

everything seems fine, theres a nice bolt im pretty sure i can ground to

problem though

I checked under my hood, and ya i CANNOT find any holes in the firewall where the wires slide through, wtf? i cant see any and theres seriously no space to drill a hole wtf?

hmm i checked out the amp kits at walmart

they got a 225 amp kit for 12

550 for 20

and 1100 for 25

none of them come witht he battery connector thing though

Also they got a 230w or so sony xplod amp for 80 looks nice too

k heres my amp

http://www.cardomain.com/item/ALPMRV100M

basically 100-150w depending on how much voltage and how many ohms your running

so that 225w amp kit would work? i didnt see any battery terminals so where can i get them? (locally)

Some stereos can actually power a couple of small subs and have an option to cut the highs out. And by small, I mean 6.5 inches or smaller. Never EVER underpower a sub. If your stereo doesn't have enough power to run a 12 or a 10 and you go turn it up, it'll distort and it's distortion that will kill your subs. Get a 2 channel amp. If you have only one sub, you can bridge it to mono. If you have 2 subs, then just wire it in stereo. My Profile Baja HA1000 does a nice job driving my two 10s in stereo mode in a bandpass box. The price is right too. They're getting 160 Watts RMS each. Oh, with this amp, if you have two subs, you have to wire in stereo. It will not accept a 2-ohm load in bridge mode.

You can always underpower a sub as long as your gains are set correctly. And by underpower I don't mean by a head unit. Distortion doesn't kill subs. Too much power (whether distorted or not) and mechanical issues kills subs.

somone told me i need converters for the door chimes (the chimes that go off when the door is opened and the keys in teh ignition)

where do i get that?

and the amp has a

speaker level input

its a 4 pin plug (square) and theres channel 1 and 2, left and right whats that for?

leave speaker level inputs alone, run the rca's. You connect either rca's or speakers, never both. RCA's will give you much cleaner sound. And as for hooking a sub straight to a headunit, that is completly stupid and totally wrong. Dont do it. It will do no harm to the sub, but they headunit will not be able to handle it. You must use an amp. Dont even waste your time hooking it up unless just to test it for a few seconds.

yup

the email is [email protected], if that doesnt work hit up

[email protected]

i got a question which battery terminal do i need for the remote jump start (which i found btw)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kt9qebCvdjv/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=713&avf=N

walmart SHould have one of those, which one do i need? so i know what im lookin for

and will the 225 w amp wiring kit work? or do i need the 550w kit? the amp gives out about 150-200w bridged

It sounds like you're looking at the Scosche wiring kits from Wal-mart... I ended up going for the 550W one just to be on the safe side... and what do you mean by "none of them come witht he battery connector thing though"?

Are you referring to the power wire?

no, in the pics on the back of the box (look if u still have it, and ya im talkin about those scosche kits)

It says battery terminal (not included) in the wiring diagram

how much would the terminal cost at walmart? i didnt see one when iw as there

Your battery terminal is already on the car. It is hooked up to the positive pole of you battery. Just unscrew the nut on the terminal and slide you connector over the bolt. Then re-tighten the nut, and you have power to your amp. Make sure not to tighten the nut to much or it will cause you terminal to crack which isn't good.

yeah got a couple of questions. What kind of vehicle is it? What kind of sound do you want? I know your on a limited budget. On the pioneer sub it might tell you the specs of it on or by the magnet. If powered right that bandpass box can make crappy subs sound somewhat better. But if you use that one amp just run a mono setup. rca's to the back of the cd player. If it is a car, your not gonna want trunk rattle which is tacky. You have what you have i would tell you how to make a world class system but seems that is not your intent. You are only sixteen and you do what you can. But if interested you can e-mail me.

i have a 97 chevy lumina

i just wanna hit up more bass mainly cuz im bored and i can lol

how can i get rid of the trunk rattle?

use sound dampner padding in short

You have what you have i would tell you how to make a world class system

whats that mean?

if you wanna throw in tweeters high performance subs,equalizer, strike caps, all new mids, sound dampening on the whole car to where it is crisp but hard hitting when needed. And of course and amp that would push those subs.
In earlier comments of others under powered subs sound like crap and in my words would get more "bang" out of 6x9's

Hmm should i get the new head unit for 162 shipped

or a refurb, for 146? both are the same head unit

on ebay

well with something like this i would usually go new, but if they have a good rating you could go with refurb. 16 bucks more. weigh your options. Do any of them come with a warranty of any kind. Or if you could show me witch one it is on ebay

ya both have warranties

Heres the new one

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-PANASONIC-CQ-C7301U-CD-MP3-WMA-Player-Receiver_W0QQitemZ5811327826QQcategoryZ50560QQrdZ1 QQcmdZViewItem

and the refurb

http://cgi.ebay.com/Panasonic-CQ-C7301U-CD-Player-SQ7-3-D-Dot-Matrix-SEALED_W0QQitemZ5811479515QQcategoryZ39761QQrdZ1QQ cmdZViewItem

i just noticed the refurb isnt buy it now

there was a buy it now refurb for 153 shipped, same people

refurb will be ok. That 90 day factory warranty is better than the new guys. The other guys require more paperwork. Most likely you will not run into problems though. I had bought a clarion screen about two years back and it didn't work sent it back three weeks later got a new one in, worked great. Sometimes it happens though. I was sweating though cause that would of been 1100 down the drain.

Hope this will aid in your decision

dang ya i shoulda just boughten the buy it now refurb for 153 shipped, cuz ill have to bid on the other ones and itll probly go over that price, and i have to wait 3 days

ok ill just buy the new one cuz i cant wait lol

But ya ok i figured out how to route my wires to the trunk, one question though, How the hell do u get wires through the hole in the firewall (the rubber grommet hole is sooo small)

and how the heck do i get wires (the speaker and turn on wires) to the head unit? like how do i route the wires to get behind the head unit?

You should still have your factory harness. Purchase a separate harness for that model car and and connect with butt connectors to cd player harness. For routing power cable, you might have to drill a hole or try to squeeze it in that one. Also there is a blue wire you must route to the amplifier which comes from the cd player telling the amp when to turn on.Separate this wire from all others for it may cause interference.

ya i know the power cable should go on one side (driver side most of the time) and the turn on and the amp conections cable should be on the opposite side

but what i need to know is, how the hell do the amp connections and turn on cables get to the back of the head unit?

wow theres alot of shit in this forum for one there is a HU that can power a small sub off the rear channel so if you power the rears with an amp then that doesnt matter its a panasonic (granted it might not sound great but it will work). By small im saying an 8 or a 10 at like 100rms or something like a JLw0. For the battery terminal you just connect it to the bolt on the battery + on your cars hanress. For the hole you can what i have had to do in many cases or drill a hole. For the ruber grommet take a flat head screwdriver and gently dont forc it through or you can cut a wire or mess up the harness. After you got it through take some duct tape or electric tape and wrap the wire to the screw driver and pull it through slowly so it doesnt rip off worker nicely on my blazer, didnt have the time to drill the hole or the tools at hand. After that just pul the wire to about the length you need in the engine bay for it to connect to the battery with the fuse conector. If some says bs to this i did this with 2 gauage wire and i ahve had any problems. As for drilling you can buy a drill bit to the right size or go look for a Uni-bit it looks like a cone with steps in it these can be very helpful for car audio drill it the the size of the wire and most likely the kit should include a grommet that snaps into the the hole to keep it from cutting the wire.

For the rcas and remote wire hookup your HU wiring guide should have a list of what color wire is what and your remote is always blue you can alos use the power antenna wire for this. Running your remote with your rcas will have little to know effect on engine whine or such in your amp, directed sells some rcas with the remote in the center of the wires very nice for routing considering all you do is run the rcas and pull the wire out and strip what you need to connect it. Never route your power wire next to rcas always run the rcas down the opposite side of the cars electric harness for the taillights or the whatever there may be that gets power in the rear of the vehicle, this can give you horrible engine whine. on most cars its generally on the drivers side so put your power wire on that side. As for the gorund make sure you snad the paint away from the metal and mak your ground as short as possible i know it sounds dumb but the shorter the ground the better your amp can perform only because the shorter the ground the less distance the current has to travel before completing the dc circuit.

For sound dampening look into edesigns, dynamat, or thees some other brands that have pretty good stuff, remember that and type of sound dampening mat is usually sticky as fuck and if you let it touch itself you generally just wasted a piece of the mat. You can use cardboard or a big piece of paper for a template so you can get the exact size and shape you need to fit it where it goes. Very helpful on trunke because of the braces in the deck lid. As for ebay i bought my entire first system off ebay with no problems excpet overpowering a sub and frying the HU when i totaled my car, payed like 800 for what should have been close to 1200-1300 for everything. For tweeters get a component system that way you can put your speakers where they belong or make pods and put the tweets where ever you want for aiming. I know all of thsi can be very confusing at first it took me a little while and a shit load of research on the web through forums, reviews, actualy seeing the product in action before i decided on what i wanted. What makes all this funny is that i went from the 800 system to 2-12" subs i payed 50 bucks for and an amp from the smae guy for 50 and like 40 bucks for some wood and suplies and i made 2 polks from about 94 or 96 hit above 130db.

Do some research its good that your asing questins because just jumping into something is a bad idea if you dont know what your doing, but good luck with everything look around for what you need and look at how that product performs and what you need.

hey i think the rca cable my dad has (and that i was using as my wire to test my routing to my trunk) it has the 2 rca connectors and a seperate O ring/crimp ring type thing, and the same on the other end, so im guessing that would act as the rca and the turn on?

Too bad its too short, its like a 5 foot cable

How do i get my wires to the back of my head unit?

To get the rcas connected the the HU you need to remove the HU from the dash, not full removal just enough room so that you can slide the rcas down through the back to the carpet so you can run them to the rear. Getting them through the back of the dash can be hard on some vehicles and easy on others, not sure on a lumina if its like a cavalier it might take some time (my girls car was a bitch).

In some cases if you can slide a wire hanger up through the dash to an area under the dash that you can run the wires you can also slide it down as long as it gets to both ends. After you manage to wiggle the damn thing through the wires be gentle it could be bad if you accidentally nic a wire and it contacts the chassis later, after this you just tape the rcas to the hanger and pull on the hanger. Be very easy with this if you hurt the connectors on the end of the rcas you might mess the cable up. After all this connect the rcas to the HU there might be more than one set of jacks so make sure you know which ones you need they would be labeled subwoofer, rear, and front the front and the rears are pretty much the same but if your into tuning through the HU so the sound works right when your adjusting the speakers. If you have 1 or 2 sets then dont worry about it unless one says sub.

Now that you have the rcas through the dash you can run the wire to the place where your putting your amp, reinstall the cd player and hook up the amp. You might want to run the remote wire at the same time so your not digging through the dash again. I did my blazer in about 4 hours i removed almost the entire interior all 3 seats and a nice section of carpet but it was worth it cant see any wires.

ya i know how to run the wires through the side, i just have no idea how to get infront of the passenger seat and then to the back of the unit and crap ill check it out

woot i ordered my cd player this morning, should get it wed or thurs i think

well i should get it tomorow or friday

on the tracking it says it should arrive friday, but whenever i order computer stuff using fedex, it says itll show up one day, but it always shows up a day early, so hopefully itll be the same

ANyways, what color should i paint the din kit? my interior is beigeish and my exterior is maroon lol

Ya i got all my stuff (cd player, amp wiring kit, and the din kit)

and man im confused

In the din kit, the instructions say to use this one mounting bracket, which is different then what it shows in the pic so i dunno what to use

and with the wiring harness, the wires dont match the wires in the car, do i have to move some wires in the connector? (like say the green wire is on one spot on the conenctor, on the wiring harness, its in another spot, do i need to move it?)

and i need to solder the harness to the harness that came with my cd player?

and with the wiring harness, the wires dont match the wires in the car, do i have to move some wires in the connector? (like say the green wire is on one spot on the conenctor, on the wiring harness, its in another spot, do i need to move it?)

and i need to solder the harness to the harness that came with my cd player?

It doesn't matter that the car wires don't match up. There is no industry standard so every car has different colored wires.

Just solder your harness to the CD player harness. Those should be the same color but make sure you double check.

ok so as long as the cd player wires match with the harness from the din kit, i can just connect it straight to the harness in the car?

my connector has 4 sections, 3 sections have wires, and in the other section theres nothin, but on the harness in the car, theres wires in that section, so wtf?

underpowering a sub will definately hurt it it wont nessecarily hurt the speaker but the voice coil will be SHOT!!!!! so... take it as u want it

ok on my head unit, it has a blue/white wire, and it says its for external amp control power lead

so do i have to solder my amp turn on wire to it?

Scratchmaster underpowering will not hurt a sub underpowering with distortion and clipping will hurt it. I had 2 subs at 150rms and they were rated at 350rms i blew one when i put 450 to it. I ran it with 150 for about 6 months never even hurt the speakers. Now for something that might make you claim BS, my little brother has one of those same infinity's hooked up to a sub channel off of a computer 5.1 system. ITs like 30rms it doesnt sound all that great puts out a shit load of bass for such a small amp and its been like that for over a year. Unless you have some severe clipping or madass distortion underpowering wont hurt your subs. Speakers are a different story only because the frequency range they have but as long as you dont start clipping them or they dont start distoroting they wont fry.

To bboy those extra wires could be for the security system, or steering wheel controls i can call my uncle casue he does GM installations on 98 and up cars and i can see if he knows what the extra wires are for. Yeah thats the wire for the remote amp wire as for the harness the cd player should come with a color code sheet or it might have a label on top and it tells you what wire goes to where just match those together with the ones on the harness and its should come together pretty easily.

ya all the wires match up, except for the orange which i thought i would need but it says its for illumination? (its not on the head unit)

ok well i got everything soldered and it all works :)

the hard thing is mounting the dam thing

the manual had a pic of one bracket and they labeled it with the name of another bracket

so i used the one on the pic, and looks to me that the one that was labeled (not in the pic) would work perfectly

the holes dont match up (they sort of do) i CAN mod the hole a lil bit but i dont want to

is there anyway to remove the brackets?

nvm two minutes after i posted i figured out i could rip the brackets off, i switched them with the other ones, looks fine now

ok people

i tried my alpine amp, didnt work

THe old amp worked, after moving the wires around a bit but then it stopped working, and itll light up every so often (the power led) but it wont stay on

so wtf?

is the fuse (the one that is near the battery) suppose to be tight? because i stuck it in, and i can pull it out super easy, shouldnt it be hard to pull out?

when you under power a sub it gets used to the low watts and when you goto put an amp the will push them you will kill them done that a million times and no never over power any subs. My SYSTEM RATTLES YOU TEETH!!!

wow ... poor advice on a thread that's 4 years old