Getting a better Launch
tcfco2005
09-16-2005, 09:14 AM
well my launching sucks wich is giving me the horrible 60ft time of 2.6. ive noticed if i do a neutral slam i get better take off. How bad is this for my tranny...i know its not good but how bad is it....i bring the rpm's up to about 2000 and then take my foot of the gas and let the rpms drop slightly and then i shift it into drive and punch it....is there a better way for me to get a better launch.Thanks
SG007
09-16-2005, 09:27 AM
.....bigger engine..... :)
Viper_Storm
09-16-2005, 09:43 AM
a bigger engine doesnt make a better launch, in fact in might make a worse lauch, a bigger engine = more power all that damn power to the wheels and he will be spinning his damn tires all the way down the track.
Viper_Storm
09-16-2005, 09:44 AM
get a line lock, lil button hold down the breaks press the button let off the breaks and rev it just before the wheels start to spin on green let go of the lil button and floor it.
SG007
09-16-2005, 09:48 AM
a bigger engine doesnt make a better launch, in fact in might make a worse lauch, a bigger engine = more power all that damn power to the wheels and he will be spinning his damn tires all the way down the track.
learning to properly run a 350, for instance, is a hell of a lot better than neutral-dropping a 305! i'd laugh the hardest when his tranny goes bye bye....
learning to properly run a 350, for instance, is a hell of a lot better than neutral-dropping a 305! i'd laugh the hardest when his tranny goes bye bye....
Viper_Storm
09-16-2005, 09:54 AM
thats why hes asking how to get a better lauch... if he puts in a 350 and does what hes doing now you think his trans is gonna hold up longer? so why not learn on a 305? what is the diffrence on what engine he learns to get perfect launches on? im pretty sure he wants to know ways to get better launches so his tranny will last not what he can do to break it faster.
SG007
09-16-2005, 10:06 AM
i meant that whole 'bigger engine' thing as the obvious funny option. yeah he can fuck up his engine no matter what size it is neutral dropping it...that wasn't my point! take a chill pill!
Scale-Master
09-16-2005, 10:27 AM
I f your spinning the tires, lower your rear tire pressure.
Power brake to about 2400 RPM if the converter will let you get that many R's, floor it and let off the brake when it's time to go.
A lot easier on the tranny and the U-Joints... - Mark
Power brake to about 2400 RPM if the converter will let you get that many R's, floor it and let off the brake when it's time to go.
A lot easier on the tranny and the U-Joints... - Mark
tcfco2005
09-16-2005, 12:16 PM
well i want to stop doing a neutral slam thats why i asked how to do a better launch....i can only bring my rpm's to about 1500 and then my tires start to spin...but they wont spin directly on take off....like if i just punch it they wont spin.and line locks are illegal at the track i go to so i cant use one of those.
kahjdh
09-16-2005, 01:17 PM
Gears, i would switch out gears and get a posi if i were you
tcfco2005
09-16-2005, 02:08 PM
ive already done that....i have 3.42's and a posi...the rear came from an 01 ss.i dont want to go higher that 3.42 because of how much i drive on the highway.
ct91rs
09-16-2005, 02:11 PM
How bad is this for my tranny...i know its not good but how bad is it....
How bad's a neutral drop on a tranny? How bad's a sledge hammer to the skull? It's hard to quantify. Unless you want sheared gears, maybe a cracked case, or you're sick of the transmission being able to transfer power to the wheels, I would strongly urge you to stop, or clostly repairs are on their way.
How bad's a neutral drop on a tranny? How bad's a sledge hammer to the skull? It's hard to quantify. Unless you want sheared gears, maybe a cracked case, or you're sick of the transmission being able to transfer power to the wheels, I would strongly urge you to stop, or clostly repairs are on their way.
tcfco2005
09-16-2005, 02:16 PM
ok ill stop.....but can someones help me out and tell me how to get a better launch....better yet just explain how you launch.
ct91rs
09-16-2005, 02:24 PM
You could put in a higher stall torque convertor
cooltc2004
09-16-2005, 02:25 PM
Neutral Bombing a transmission tells me you either have no idea how any of the mechanics work in a car or dont care. Im going to go with #1, because you did say you want to stop.
And a track that doesnt allow line locks? Goto another track, thats the stupidest rules I've EVER heard of at a dragstrip.
And a track that doesnt allow line locks? Goto another track, thats the stupidest rules I've EVER heard of at a dragstrip.
88camaroproject
09-16-2005, 02:27 PM
ummm more mods to your engine.......alot more
Viper_Storm
09-16-2005, 02:29 PM
Neutral Bombing a transmission tells me you either have no idea how any of the mechanics work in a car or dont care. Im going to go with #1, because you did say you want to stop.
And a track that doesnt allow line locks? Goto another track, thats the stupidest rules I've EVER heard of at a dragstrip.
im pretty sure the 2 closest tracks to my house both over 20 miles away dont allow line locks or trans brakes either but i have to double check that.
And a track that doesnt allow line locks? Goto another track, thats the stupidest rules I've EVER heard of at a dragstrip.
im pretty sure the 2 closest tracks to my house both over 20 miles away dont allow line locks or trans brakes either but i have to double check that.
ct91rs
09-16-2005, 02:34 PM
ummm more mods to your engine.......alot more
I agree with '88. The stock 305 TBI is suffocating for air coming in, and choked by the exhaust going out, open 'er up a bit.
I agree with '88. The stock 305 TBI is suffocating for air coming in, and choked by the exhaust going out, open 'er up a bit.
philly rs
09-16-2005, 03:17 PM
well first off the bigger engine thing is bogus, thats how i see guys in ss camaros getting times at the track like 15's and 16's. you will be stuck spinning in the hole, with a butt reaction time and 60 foot. then u not only need to learn where u can do drops from on your car (by practicing) but u need your suspension set up properly. nobody suggested that, dont any of u race at the track at all? not only that but big part is u wont hook with booty tires. get u some M/T's. u can run on street tires if u want (i do) but on the real u need the right tires if u want to lay it down proper. but most of all man u have to practice...u can have the bomb set up tires and all and still not know how to drive your car right so u will either stall or spin. i dont care what anybody tells u, but thats what 1/8 mile tracks are good for. practicing your hooken for sweet ass 60ft's. its too short of a race for it to be any damn fun and its not a real ass race..(like a 1 mile race would be) but compaired to the 1/4 mile the 8th is only good for practicing getting out the hole. so u need to just play around with it and see whats best 4 u. and by the way u will kill your tranny in the long run, we all will no matter how bad assed it is and what is was built for, in the long run it will bite u in the ass. when u wanna play racer u will learn things are gonna break so dont worry about breaking them just know that they will. it will keep u from getting pissed. we have a pricy hobby so u just gotta live with it
Scale-Master
09-16-2005, 04:27 PM
If you lower your tire pressure you will get more traction, therefore less tire spin and maybe a couple hundred more RPM before it starts spinning too. I run 255/55R16s at 17 psi on each side. I only run that low of a pressure at the track, NEVER on the street.
That's all I can suggest without having you get into really setting it up and changing your car... - Mark
That's all I can suggest without having you get into really setting it up and changing your car... - Mark
cooltc2004
09-16-2005, 04:34 PM
Only thing I dont like about slicks is when you hook, YOU HOOK. So you better make sure everything is supported or braced, because you will start ripping things when you hook like that.
ct91rs
09-16-2005, 04:51 PM
Yes, if he added a bunch of power, he'd have a problem keeping the rear down, and thus need to upgrade things such as solid or boxed rear control arms, stiffer panhard bar and torque arm, sub-frame connectors, wider tires, yada, yada...
I may have missed it, but I don't remember him complaining about not getting traction...I doubt that's a problem for him right now.
I may have missed it, but I don't remember him complaining about not getting traction...I doubt that's a problem for him right now.
philly rs
09-16-2005, 05:49 PM
yeah u are right u hook like crazy with slicks
travis712
09-16-2005, 08:36 PM
Seems like hes more looking for advice driving in the driving itself. Not engine, suspension, and gear ratio upgrades. Although they obviously will help him, learning to drive first will help a lot, and be cheaper.
Matt365
09-17-2005, 01:17 PM
well my launching sucks wich is giving me the horrible 60ft time of 2.6. ive noticed if i do a neutral slam i get better take off. How bad is this for my tranny...i know its not good but how bad is it....i bring the rpm's up to about 2000 and then take my foot of the gas and let the rpms drop slightly and then i shift it into drive and punch it....is there a better way for me to get a better launch.Thanks
NO FECKING NEUTRAL BOMBING :slap: :slap: :slap:
IF you do it, be prepared to spend 2,000 dollars to rebuild your tranny.
I just did.
NO FECKING NEUTRAL BOMBING :slap: :slap: :slap:
IF you do it, be prepared to spend 2,000 dollars to rebuild your tranny.
I just did.
cooltc2004
09-17-2005, 02:50 PM
Well then you got ripped off, because for $2k I can get a brand new tranny. I paid $750 and I got an Engine AND Trans. Not saying to do it, just saying that price is a tad bit high :D
ct91rs
09-17-2005, 03:00 PM
Well then you got ripped off, because for $2k I can get a brand new tranny. I paid $750 and I got an Engine AND Trans. Not saying to do it, just saying that price is a tad bit high :D
It's a bit high, but to get the tranny removed, rebuilt, and installed by a shop will probably run you at least $1,200.
It's a bit high, but to get the tranny removed, rebuilt, and installed by a shop will probably run you at least $1,200.
kmdracer
09-17-2005, 11:07 PM
Hmm, sounds to me like he want's to learn how to launch his car properly, Yes?
What you need to do is go to the track on a slow night (so you can get alot of runs)
Take along a notebook or some other way of keeping track of changes and results. I use a form that I made with which I document the temp, wind speed/direction (up, down, left cross or right cross on the track)humidity, tire pressure, reaction time, 60' time, ET and speed, and last but not least, launch RPM.
I have played around with deep/shallow staging, but untill I get a little more consistancy, I'm going to just keep shallow staging.
All that is for you to know what you should be doing in order to judge any changes you make.
Now, to the basics.
In order to launch any car, you have to determine what it will respond best to by keeping track of the info above.
Start by keeping all the things you can the same, like tire pressure, amount of gas in the tank, and then try to go racing under similar weather conditions if possible.
#1 Start off at the line by holding you car at idle, one foot on gas, one on brake, the floor it at the light.
#2 Next do the same thing, but try only 1/2 throttle off the line, then floor it once you are moving.
#3 Keep doing this with varying degree's of throttle position until you determine the best result.
Note: changing the throttle position and degree's here is for right after the light turns green.
#4 Now try going up on your rpm's before launch. I like to try 100 rpm increments.
Once you determine what your car likes best, then you can work on consistancy. After you obtain consistancy, then try changing other things, like lowering tire pressure, lowering fuel load, removing weight, etc, etc...
REMENBER TO DOCUMENT ALL RESULTS!!!
Once you have it all documented, you will be able to determine how to launch you car best while dealing with a slick or sticky track.
If all else fails, take a look around and try to spot the guy running a stock car (could be any kind evean a beater) who is cutting great lights time after time. Go up to him/her and ask them if they could give you some pointers. Almost everyone at all the tracks I have ever raced on have been very friendly and ready to give advice or help
If you already know all of this, then sorry for the long reply. BUT, please don't under ANY circumstances "neutral drop" your trans!!!
KevinD
What you need to do is go to the track on a slow night (so you can get alot of runs)
Take along a notebook or some other way of keeping track of changes and results. I use a form that I made with which I document the temp, wind speed/direction (up, down, left cross or right cross on the track)humidity, tire pressure, reaction time, 60' time, ET and speed, and last but not least, launch RPM.
I have played around with deep/shallow staging, but untill I get a little more consistancy, I'm going to just keep shallow staging.
All that is for you to know what you should be doing in order to judge any changes you make.
Now, to the basics.
In order to launch any car, you have to determine what it will respond best to by keeping track of the info above.
Start by keeping all the things you can the same, like tire pressure, amount of gas in the tank, and then try to go racing under similar weather conditions if possible.
#1 Start off at the line by holding you car at idle, one foot on gas, one on brake, the floor it at the light.
#2 Next do the same thing, but try only 1/2 throttle off the line, then floor it once you are moving.
#3 Keep doing this with varying degree's of throttle position until you determine the best result.
Note: changing the throttle position and degree's here is for right after the light turns green.
#4 Now try going up on your rpm's before launch. I like to try 100 rpm increments.
Once you determine what your car likes best, then you can work on consistancy. After you obtain consistancy, then try changing other things, like lowering tire pressure, lowering fuel load, removing weight, etc, etc...
REMENBER TO DOCUMENT ALL RESULTS!!!
Once you have it all documented, you will be able to determine how to launch you car best while dealing with a slick or sticky track.
If all else fails, take a look around and try to spot the guy running a stock car (could be any kind evean a beater) who is cutting great lights time after time. Go up to him/her and ask them if they could give you some pointers. Almost everyone at all the tracks I have ever raced on have been very friendly and ready to give advice or help
If you already know all of this, then sorry for the long reply. BUT, please don't under ANY circumstances "neutral drop" your trans!!!
KevinD
travis712
09-17-2005, 11:19 PM
Hmm, sounds to me like he want's to learn how to launch his car properly, Yes?
What you need to do is go to the track on a slow night (so you can get alot of runs)
Take along a notebook or some other way of keeping track of changes and results. I use a form that I made with which I document the temp, wind speed/direction (up, down, left cross or right cross on the track)humidity, tire pressure, reaction time, 60' time, ET and speed, and last but not least, launch RPM.
I have played around with deep/shallow staging, but untill I get a little more consistancy, I'm going to just keep shallow staging.
All that is for you to know what you should be doing in order to judge any changes you make.
Now, to the basics.
In order to launch any car, you have to determine what it will respond best to by keeping track of the info above.
Start by keeping all the things you can the same, like tire pressure, amount of gas in the tank, and then try to go racing under similar weather conditions if possible.
#1 Start off at the line by holding you car at idle, one foot on gas, one on brake, the floor it at the light.
#2 Next do the same thing, but try only 1/2 throttle off the line, then floor it once you are moving.
#3 Keep doing this with varying degree's of throttle position until you determine the best result.
Note: changing the throttle position and degree's here is for right after the light turns green.
#4 Now try going up on your rpm's before launch. I like to try 100 rpm increments.
Once you determine what your car likes best, then you can work on consistancy. After you obtain consistancy, then try changing other things, like lowering tire pressure, lowering fuel load, removing weight, etc, etc...
REMENBER TO DOCUMENT ALL RESULTS!!!
Once you have it all documented, you will be able to determine how to launch you car best while dealing with a slick or sticky track.
If all else fails, take a look around and try to spot the guy running a stock car (could be any kind evean a beater) who is cutting great lights time after time. Go up to him/her and ask them if they could give you some pointers. Almost everyone at all the tracks I have ever raced on have been very friendly and ready to give advice or help
If you already know all of this, then sorry for the long reply. BUT, please don't under ANY circumstances "neutral drop" your trans!!!
KevinD
Good post. I think this is what he is looking for. Jeez, stay on AF as long as you want man, we need more people like you with well thought out posts. I know my posts arn't always the best, but I try not sounding like an idiot, and teyp liek om drunc aell teh tiem!111
:grinno:
What you need to do is go to the track on a slow night (so you can get alot of runs)
Take along a notebook or some other way of keeping track of changes and results. I use a form that I made with which I document the temp, wind speed/direction (up, down, left cross or right cross on the track)humidity, tire pressure, reaction time, 60' time, ET and speed, and last but not least, launch RPM.
I have played around with deep/shallow staging, but untill I get a little more consistancy, I'm going to just keep shallow staging.
All that is for you to know what you should be doing in order to judge any changes you make.
Now, to the basics.
In order to launch any car, you have to determine what it will respond best to by keeping track of the info above.
Start by keeping all the things you can the same, like tire pressure, amount of gas in the tank, and then try to go racing under similar weather conditions if possible.
#1 Start off at the line by holding you car at idle, one foot on gas, one on brake, the floor it at the light.
#2 Next do the same thing, but try only 1/2 throttle off the line, then floor it once you are moving.
#3 Keep doing this with varying degree's of throttle position until you determine the best result.
Note: changing the throttle position and degree's here is for right after the light turns green.
#4 Now try going up on your rpm's before launch. I like to try 100 rpm increments.
Once you determine what your car likes best, then you can work on consistancy. After you obtain consistancy, then try changing other things, like lowering tire pressure, lowering fuel load, removing weight, etc, etc...
REMENBER TO DOCUMENT ALL RESULTS!!!
Once you have it all documented, you will be able to determine how to launch you car best while dealing with a slick or sticky track.
If all else fails, take a look around and try to spot the guy running a stock car (could be any kind evean a beater) who is cutting great lights time after time. Go up to him/her and ask them if they could give you some pointers. Almost everyone at all the tracks I have ever raced on have been very friendly and ready to give advice or help
If you already know all of this, then sorry for the long reply. BUT, please don't under ANY circumstances "neutral drop" your trans!!!
KevinD
Good post. I think this is what he is looking for. Jeez, stay on AF as long as you want man, we need more people like you with well thought out posts. I know my posts arn't always the best, but I try not sounding like an idiot, and teyp liek om drunc aell teh tiem!111
:grinno:
kmdracer
09-17-2005, 11:32 PM
Ha-ha-ha, Thanks, I'm working on some drunken typing even now. In about an hour or so, skills are gonna go WAY down!
kmdracer
09-17-2005, 11:40 PM
BTW, I meant to add that by doing theese things, I have been able to go from a 1.5 RT (old .500 tree), 2.8 0-60' 9.5 @ 78.2 mph to...
Current best of: .508rt (usually .580 or so), 2.0 0-60' (still sporting street tires) 8.1 @ 82.5 mph ( all on 1/8 mile. One of these weekends when I'm at my Dad's, I'm gonna go take it to the 1/4 track in Baytown. He lives about 20 min. from there, but it's about 2 1/2 hrs from here.
Current best of: .508rt (usually .580 or so), 2.0 0-60' (still sporting street tires) 8.1 @ 82.5 mph ( all on 1/8 mile. One of these weekends when I'm at my Dad's, I'm gonna go take it to the 1/4 track in Baytown. He lives about 20 min. from there, but it's about 2 1/2 hrs from here.
tcfco2005
09-18-2005, 12:26 AM
kmdracer....that was perfect...thats what i was looking for thanks for your help....ill start practicing asap and ill deffinately stop doing neutral slams.
kmdracer
09-18-2005, 12:31 AM
No prob! Glad I could help a little. I see you're from Austin? I've I lived a little closer to there, I'd meet you some time at the track and help get you started. Don't get me wrong, I'm not an expert, I just know what works for me!
tcfco2005
09-18-2005, 01:11 AM
do you ever go to sar....sanantoniaraceway...
Rally Sport
09-18-2005, 01:50 AM
do you ever go to sar....sanantoniaraceway...
I would but eh.. I live in Dallas Ft. Worth.. and dont feel like driving 4 hours to get there.
I would but eh.. I live in Dallas Ft. Worth.. and dont feel like driving 4 hours to get there.
tcfco2005
09-18-2005, 01:52 AM
well maybe we can set up an automotive forums texas meet sometime..
Rally Sport
09-18-2005, 01:53 AM
Yeah that'd be cool.. how about Dallas Ft. Worth? :icon16:
Matt365
09-18-2005, 09:59 AM
yea that texas meet would be really cool, i live about 45 mins east of dallas off of 80.
Matt365
09-18-2005, 10:00 AM
But you have to wait till i do the engine swap, or else i might not be able to keep up :lol:
Viper_Storm
09-18-2005, 12:20 PM
you could take your engine out and run dead even with luos's WS6 :lol:
travis712
09-18-2005, 12:22 PM
you could take your engine out and run dead even with luos's WS6 :lol:
lmao viper, that was a low blow :grinno:
lmao viper, that was a low blow :grinno:
Viper_Storm
09-18-2005, 12:27 PM
its true tho. you could beat his ws6 on foot. (walking) [a very slow pace].
lol
but not for long tho, at the rate hes going now should only be like that for another week or so.
lol
but not for long tho, at the rate hes going now should only be like that for another week or so.
Rally Sport
09-18-2005, 12:37 PM
Heh, actually I bet Luos would win in a downhill race between you on foot and him in the car. :loser:
Also Matt, the engine swap really wouldnt be needed since if we do race i'll be in my stock Monte Carlo so dont know.
Also Matt, the engine swap really wouldnt be needed since if we do race i'll be in my stock Monte Carlo so dont know.
travis712
09-18-2005, 12:42 PM
92, did your 'Maro crap out on you completely?
Rally Sport
09-18-2005, 12:45 PM
Yeah, it did. Im looking to replace the 3.1
Matt365
09-18-2005, 01:15 PM
you could take your engine out and run dead even with luos's WS6 :lol:
:cwm27:
:cwm27:
Matt365
09-18-2005, 01:17 PM
Well then you got ripped off, because for $2k I can get a brand new tranny. I paid $750 and I got an Engine AND Trans. Not saying to do it, just saying that price is a tad bit high :D
well, 250 of that was replacing my pan gasket, plus the yahoo shift kit, beefing up the clutch plates to handle about 5oo ft/torque(if i ever could get it) and pressure regulator up, replacing the solenoids. Then labor and a new torque converter.
well, 250 of that was replacing my pan gasket, plus the yahoo shift kit, beefing up the clutch plates to handle about 5oo ft/torque(if i ever could get it) and pressure regulator up, replacing the solenoids. Then labor and a new torque converter.
tcfco2005
09-19-2005, 09:49 AM
that price doesnt seem that bad....2k for all of that stuff..
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