92 civic first time changing brakes help

I'd like to change the brake pads and possibly the rotors as well on my 92 Civic ex. It's got front and rear disc brakes and the rear ones are anti-lock. I've watched my dad do the job on them but I didn't really get involved and he won't be available, but I'd like to try it myself. If changing the rotors is too much then I'll just stick with the pads. What are the steps, what tools will I need to make sure I have handy and what extra steps need to be taken with the abs piston-thing on the rear brakes (I remember that from watching and talking to my dad)? Also, I drive alot, about 60 miles a day, in both highway and local traffic, what are the best brake pads (and rotors) for that type of driving? thanks....

Changing pads are easy except im not to sure about teh ABS, as for teh regular pads, take your wheel obviously, then turn the wheel like so that teh caliper is facing you(not necessary, just makes it easier to take off caliper), then you will see there are 2 screws at the bottom back and top back of teh caliper, take them off and your caliper just come out with ease. Then you will see your 2 brake pads, if they are hard to take off, just you use a flat head screw driver. Put on your new pads and put the caliper back the was it was before, just check the other side to make sure you put on teh caliper properly. If you see you can't put teh caliper back in because teh piston on it came out to much, just use a C-clamp to put it back in. As for your break pads, well I drive every single day with my car too and I use Monroe pads, they are pretty much average pads I guess, anyway just make sure you are ready for your breaks and are pretty sure you can do them because if they are done properly well you wouldn't want them to break while your driving, anyway good luck!!

check my sig. it isnt very hard

If you ever do any performance driving I reccomend Hawk pads, their a little more than some pads but offer quite a bit more stopping power over oem replacement, You could also upgrade to a slotted(supposedly better then drilled, which is why I run them) rotor by brembo or powerslot. If you just want oem performance, pepboys has good generic brand brake parts if you get their "best quality" parts. just depends on how much your willing to spend I guess.

(supposedly better then drilled, which is why I run them) cross drilled tend to crack after a while

I followed the instructions per the Haynes manual with the assumption that I was going to take off the caliper completely to install new rotors on the front. I went to the first one on the passenger side, removed the fluid line assembly and fluid started gushing out!!!! The book called for this but after really examining it with my own eyes, I realize that that particular hose screw is not really necessary to disconnect to change the caliper. Needless to say, so much fluid came out that the brake there is no brake fluid at all in the master container by the engine block. I easily changed the pads, but now I know something must be done to fix the no brake fluid thing with this one wheel. I only have done this one wheel thus far, and from what I read if I have to do any bleeding or whatever I will only have to do it to this one wheel. What should I do before I drive to ensure I have a functional breaking system???? Please Help!!!!

ur gona have to bleed the system. which means hook all teh hoses back up get some brake fluid and an empty bottle and just go around and bleed ALL 4 WHEELS NOT JUST THAT ONE. there is a sequence to do this in and it should be in ur haynes manual. this is gona take alot of time and patience bc u have to go around multiple times. u must get all or almost all of the air out of the system.

I actually decided to put on a new caliper on the brake where there was unevern wear on the pads (the same brake which I let all the fluid out of. Now on to bleeding....
The brake hose line only has fluid come out only in drops when I completely disconnect it from the caliper (should it be a stream or is this normal). When I went on to bleed the brakes, I opened the bleeder screw, had someone depress the brake pedal, then I tightened the bleeder screw and then the pedal was released. The best I was able to get coming out of the bleeder (I had a hose attached which went into a small container) was clear fluid with tiny tiny bubbles. I have not been able to get the fluid to come out with no bubbles at all. What should I do? Am I doing something wrong????Are tiny bubbles acceptable?

u have to pump the brake till it gets hard then hold it pressed in then u open the bleeder valve then close it then pump the brake again then go to the next brake, ur gona have to go around the car acouple time before u get all the air out