1988 2.5 Oil Pan Gasket
69Firebird4-speed
09-14-2005, 10:00 PM
Guy's, I'm helping a friend put a long block 2.5 in a '88 S-10. I'm a pretty decent "shade tree" mechanic, but I'm having problems getting the oil pan gasket on. I had fel-pro's 4 pice set but the rear rubber piece keeps squeezing out the back. Does someone make a 1-piece gasket or is it best I just use some silicone for the back piece? It seems the pan "flange" is just too small to hold the rubber piece in place while you try to bolt the pan down. I could just silicone the whole thing but I prefer to use gaskets. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
ctesla
09-15-2005, 08:00 AM
throw the rubber in the freezer for a few hours, while doing other prep work. this will allow the rubber to "shrink" somewhat to allow an easier fit, plus, it will allow you to "form" it, more like a bread tie, that will retain and hold shape, rather than pushing out, while bolting down.
also put a dab of silicone where the flange piece ends on both sides;
where two different gaskets meet, this is where a potential "blow-out" or leak can occur (vacuum/oil/or otherwise). plus this will help hold the ends of the rear (or front) seal in place while curing.
IMPORTANT: a rubber seal is designed to make contact with the metal, and thus seal is formed; do not overtorque. otherwise the metals can "pinch" the seal and force it out of its area, or merely pinching can create a leak.
silicone the ends, cradle into the pan in position, start bolts in middle, not ends, and work your way to the ends, then finger tight only, this way the rubber seal is where it needs to be, but not being squeezed out.
then, go back and torque to spec.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
also put a dab of silicone where the flange piece ends on both sides;
where two different gaskets meet, this is where a potential "blow-out" or leak can occur (vacuum/oil/or otherwise). plus this will help hold the ends of the rear (or front) seal in place while curing.
IMPORTANT: a rubber seal is designed to make contact with the metal, and thus seal is formed; do not overtorque. otherwise the metals can "pinch" the seal and force it out of its area, or merely pinching can create a leak.
silicone the ends, cradle into the pan in position, start bolts in middle, not ends, and work your way to the ends, then finger tight only, this way the rubber seal is where it needs to be, but not being squeezed out.
then, go back and torque to spec.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
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