Help with 1966 Chevy 327
corym
09-14-2005, 09:11 PM
I have a 1973 Jeep cj-5 with a 1966 chevy 327 in it. The motor ran a little rough when I got it. I have replaced the alternator, new plugs and wires, new distributer and cap and ignition coil. The motor turns over fine, and I am getting plenty of gas threw the carb. It acts like its not getting fire right. can anyone help with an Idea on how to get her running?
victimizati0n
09-15-2005, 06:33 AM
start it up for 30 seconds, and feel the exhaust pipes.
If they are all warm, ecept for 1 or 2, then you know your not firing on those cylinders.
Has it always done this? I know my camaros engine is really rough, but it is normal, since it has a pretty big cam in it
If they are all warm, ecept for 1 or 2, then you know your not firing on those cylinders.
Has it always done this? I know my camaros engine is really rough, but it is normal, since it has a pretty big cam in it
corym
09-15-2005, 05:34 PM
I would try that but I cant get it to start. It turns over fine and gets plenty of gas threw the carb. It hasnt always did this, but its always been a rough running motor. It ran when I first got it and replaced the alternator, carb, plugs and wires, distributer, cap and ignition coil. I am having a "brain fart" as to what to do now.
jveik
09-15-2005, 10:59 PM
maybe some wiring is bad or a fuseable link went out on ya or something. Other than that, it should run by the list of things you have replaced. just make damn sure there are absolutely NO vaccuum leaks at all, look on the intake for any unplugged holes or even the back of the carburetor too.
Also make sure youre timing isnt 180 degrees off, which would be at exhaust tdc instead of the compression tdc. that would make it not run too.
as for the bad idle, i heard that the 327 was a stronger motor than the 350 and some of them came from the factory with a pretty beefy cam for a stock engine, so that might explain that. that would make it sound like it is sputtering and about to die when in fact it is running like a dream
Also make sure youre timing isnt 180 degrees off, which would be at exhaust tdc instead of the compression tdc. that would make it not run too.
as for the bad idle, i heard that the 327 was a stronger motor than the 350 and some of them came from the factory with a pretty beefy cam for a stock engine, so that might explain that. that would make it sound like it is sputtering and about to die when in fact it is running like a dream
roy r
09-18-2005, 10:18 PM
i did that once, i was 180 out and just swore i was'nt. after hours i did compression check,
by then i washed down cylinder walls and had to change oil quick
by then i washed down cylinder walls and had to change oil quick
ATonyMac
09-21-2005, 09:50 AM
Any time someone says "I replaced the wires.......and it don't run good no more" I can honestly say, "I did that too". Several errors can occur here. First and foremost is the firing order correct. That 66 might have the order stamped on the intake, my 65 does. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 if my memory serves me, but be sure. Clockwise or counterclockwise -- pretty sure it's clockwise, but no sense in wasting brain cells trying to remember that trivia, pull the cap, hit the startwer and be sure. Where to start, I've seen folks put the #1 wire where the #8 s/b and then the correct order from there. Reversing 4 and 3, or 5 and 7, can't count the number of times I did the 5 and 7 backwards.
If it ran before you did the wires, and won't run now, I bet it's the wires. They are deceptively complicated to get all 16 connections correct. (These are new, hi quality wires arent they? If not you're wasting everyone's time, 'cludng your own.)
Man, you replaced the entire ignition system, and the carb. Did you test the engine between these two major operations? If the carb is delibvering fuel even a bit outta tune, it outta start, so I'm thinking the ignition system is the killer here.
If it ran before you did the wires, and won't run now, I bet it's the wires. They are deceptively complicated to get all 16 connections correct. (These are new, hi quality wires arent they? If not you're wasting everyone's time, 'cludng your own.)
Man, you replaced the entire ignition system, and the carb. Did you test the engine between these two major operations? If the carb is delibvering fuel even a bit outta tune, it outta start, so I'm thinking the ignition system is the killer here.
bottomtech
09-22-2005, 04:56 PM
just a thought, '66 distributors had points. If you do, I would look there.
ATonyMac
09-23-2005, 09:16 AM
Oh, I hope you lost the points when you replaced the distributor. Electronic ignition is soooo much better, it's an easy swap.
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