Need help with AC

Did a search and couldn't find anything, so hopefully someone can answer this question.
First of all, I have a 95 s-10 with the basic inline 4 cylinder and the AC in my truck won't blow cold. System is charged, fuses are fine, no leaks that I can see, basically everything is in order that I can see.
I was thinking maybe it's the clutch cycling switch? or maybe the compressor cycling switch?
On the AC on my truck, there are two(2) electrical connections on the back of the compressor(are they the compressor cycling switch & clutch cyling switch?), and one(1) on the front.
Oh yeah, the clutch spins, but won't engage when I turn on the AC.
I'm not too familiar with AC, but can't really afford to pay anyone to take a look at it right now. So hopefully someone can help.

So the compressor NEVER engages? Does it even try to? Is it frozen up maybe? Or just not gettin power?

Mine only has the wires in the back. I just ran a jumper wire to them to test mine. And it worked

^^ not the old days overboard, dont wanna jump an AC system anymore, if the clutch doesnt enguage (should be variable displacement and not cycling clutch) then somethings wrong with a controll or charge, how do you know the system is charged? did you diy or use a manifold guage set? something tells me your low on coolent or your orfice tube (assuming you have an accumulater and not a R/D) filter is plugged up... and in order to freeze the system, there either has to be a lot of moisture or it has to be running, if that much moisture is present it needs to be recoverd, and put under vacume to boil the water out

Where is the orifice filter located?

it is a part you cannot get to yourselfe, its inside one of the lines (either at the fire wall or in the condencer) if the ac pump dont kick on, it needs to go to a shop for a proformence check, if its low on coolent have them put the coolent/oil into it... and back to my original queston to you, how do you know you have a charge? what do you have off? high side and low side should be the same

I only checked the low side. How do you check the high side? Guess I'll end up taking it to a shop. :disappoin

So the compressor NEVER engages? Does it even try to? Is it frozen up maybe? Or just not gettin power?
Chances are you are low on r-34. try putting in one can of r-34 and watch to see if the clutch engages. If it does intermittently and then becomes steady then that is your problem ! Had the same problem a while back and that cured it ! Hope this helps .

dont add refridgerent yourselfe, it doesnt contain oil, which means your oil leaks out, you replace refridgerent only, and burn the system up eventually... what was the low side reading?

I went according to the instructions that came with the kit, and according to that, it was full. Anymore and it would be in danger of overcharging.
Is it possible that the switches are bad? Maybe the clutch cycling switch or compressor cycling switch?
Would anyone know where the orifice tube filter is located?
I don't want to, but I may have to take it to a shop.$$$$ :disappoin

as i said the orfice tube is located INSIDE the system, to get to it you have to purge the system dry... not your problem anywayse if the compressor doesnt turn on. could be in the ecm, hvac, or a low side pressure switch could be taken a shit...

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I meant where, as in, the line connected to the accumalator? or in the line connected to the evaparator? etc..

There is a low pressure switch located on the low-side line of your unit. It is in series with the clutch on your compressor. If it is not made up, the clutch will never engage. To eliminate this possibility, pull the connector off the switch and jumper it with some wire. If the clutch pulls in, then the switch needs to be replaced. Problem is, you cannot do this as the system freon will escape the minute you start loosening the switch. This coupled with the fact that your system, even at rest can have 150 psig static pressure on a warm day. You do not want to let that loose.

I have had some cars where this switch has gone bad and I just jumpered it. But I was a residential HVAC contractor for 13 years, so I knew what to do and had the manifold gauges and vaccuum pump to evacuate the system when I finally decided to replace the switch.

As to an earlier comment about oil, you can add just freon for a few times, but at one point or another, you may have to add some oil to the system. They sell this in pressurized cans at your local car parts store and you can use the same set-up that you use to add freon to add oil to the system. I would not recommend doing this often as oil can migrate and create other issues for you. I have had my S-10 since 1998 and it has a very, very slow leak -- takes 3-4 years to go down. I have added oil only once.

Hope this helps...

eti engineer