Rodeo 3.2L DOHC

We have a 94 Rodeo with a DOHC 3.2L. We are confused!!!! As far as we can tell by our Chilton's manual, this engine does not have lifters. Is this correct? When our Rodeo started knocking, we took it in for a diagnosis. We were told that we needed to have the lifters replaced.... we know about the belt tensioner and pusher but we can't get the crankshaft pulley off! Any help or suggestion would be appreciated! Ken

Pull the radiator and hit the bolt with a pneumatic impact wrench.
Beats trying to locate the tool Isuzu says to use. And you are correct,
no lifters.

Joe O

If you've got a 1994 3.2L rodeo, it's a SOHC 3.2L. You have one cam on each cylinder head. This engine is equipped with hydraulic valve lash adjusters. A knock is probably due to a worn hyd. timing belt tensioner, top-end ticking is ususally dirty lash adjusters on this series of engines (1993-1997).
G/luck
Joel

If you've got a 1994 3.2L rodeo, it's a SOHC 3.2L. You have one cam on each cylinder head. This engine is equipped with hydraulic valve lash adjusters. A knock is probably due to a worn hyd. timing belt tensioner, top-end ticking is ususally dirty lash adjusters on this series of engines (1993-1997).
G/luck
Joel
you're right about the year. we'll try the impact wrench and get back to you after I check out the tensioner. thanks, ken

If you've got a 1994 3.2L rodeo, it's a SOHC 3.2L. You have one cam on each cylinder head. This engine is equipped with hydraulic valve lash adjusters. A knock is probably due to a worn hyd. timing belt tensioner, top-end ticking is ususally dirty lash adjusters on this series of engines (1993-1997).
G/luck
Joel
sorry if this isn't the way to do this forum thing, we're a little new! so we got the tensioner off... now what? How can we tell that it's good or bad? There doesn't appear to be any unusual wear where the pusher couldve been pounding wrong, so... the pin in the tensioner is sticking out about a half inch and doesn't seem to have any oil in it... any ideas? Thanks for the input, Ken

Ken, I havent had to tear into one of these yet, but it's my understanding that a 'worn' tensioner wont pump up as it should (wont hold oil pressure I assume?). This causes slack in the t-belt, which causes the t-belt to slap against the inside of the right side timing belt cover @ idle. I guess the noise sounds surprizingly like a rod-knock. I guess a 'good' tensioner should take substantial force to collapse.
G/luck
Joel

sorry if this isn't the way to do this forum thing, we're a little new! so we got the tensioner off... now what? How can we tell that it's good or bad? There doesn't appear to be any unusual wear where the pusher couldve been pounding wrong, so... the pin in the tensioner is sticking out about a half inch and doesn't seem to have any oil in it... any ideas? Thanks for the input, Ken

you wont be able to feel the difference becuae it takes SOOOOOOO much pressure to push it in. and the bad one may not havr enough strength to keep the timing belt tight,. the new one SHOULD be pretty strrong to keep the tension in that belt tight and keep it from "flappin" around making that noise. but for the most part i doubt you will be able to "feel" the difference you just have to change it.

When I went to purchase one I was quoted $132.00 at a local parts house and nearly $200.00 at the dealer. Go here:

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/quote.jsp?make=IS&year=1995&product=A5330-62258&application=000350321&part=T-Belt%20Tension%20Adjuster&category=A&dp=false


$77.00 with free shipping.



Joe O

<1997 OEM timing belt tensioner. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-to-97-ISUZU-RODEO-TROOPER-3-2-Timing-Belt-Tensioner_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ7 996569904QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

G/luck
Joel

Ken, I havent had to tear into one of these yet, but it's my understanding that a 'worn' tensioner wont pump up as it should (wont hold oil pressure I assume?). This causes slack in the t-belt, which causes the t-belt to slap against the inside of the right side timing belt cover @ idle. I guess the noise sounds surprizingly like a rod-knock. I guess a 'good' tensioner should take substantial force to collapse.
G/luck
Joel

Rodeo t-belt tensioner....it does not use oil pressure to maintain belt tension. It totally independent of oil pressure (spring loaded). One can tell if the tensioner is cause for knocking noise by close examination of tensioner-there will be wear marks (indentation) on top of tensioner indicating tensioner pulley has hit it. The spring loaded plunger may still seem to be OK (still having spring tension)..but it has become weak, unable to hold timing belt to proper tension.
Regards, rredmudd

Rodeo t-belt tensioner....it does not use oil pressure to maintain belt tension. It totally independent of oil pressure (spring loaded)...

That does make sense as I've never heard of one leaking! Thanks!! Good info.

G/luck
Joel

IF you want good info on Changing Timing Belt Tensioner, and putting your vehicle back into Timing follow this:

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=16972

IF you have a 94 Passport/Rodeo and can't find you
timing marks on valve cover or Camshaft tower look at this:
http://xc2.xanga.com/fa5f566073435237523495/b187749644.jpg


Figure 8.5 Yellow Box The Black Nib/Bump is the Timing Mark for Passenger side Camshaft Sprocket, on the back cover. Line up Alignment mark(line)on the Sprocket with that black mark, and your set.

Find the same mark on the drivers side Camshaft rear cover, that will be your timing mark for this side.

Follow the above web link and in it you will find excellent video links, that will explain how to get your vehicle into timing.


Line up your Crankshaft Gear, fig 4.7 shows notch on gear (small arrow) and keyway (big arrow)[Both one and the same] with the oil housing alignment mark fig 4.8.

http://x94.xanga.com/290f0af662333237524405/b187750427.jpg


FOLLOW THE HAYNES GUIDE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION:
http://xfd.xanga.com/fb9f42f511d34237530459/w187755789.jpg

BASICALLY TURN THE SPROCKETS WITH A RATCHET WATCH THE VIDEOS FIRST BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS UNTIL YOU HIT YOUR TIMING MARKS. LEAVE THE PASSENGER SIDE ON ITS MARK, AND THE DRIVERS SIDE TURN THE ALIGNMENT NOTCH IT TO THE ALIGNMENT MARK ON THE BACK COVER.

NOTE: THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS TO TURN THE CRANKSHAFT 1/8 OF A TURN BACKWARDS (COUNTER CLOCKWISE). SO PISTONS WON'T BE IN THE WAY OF VALVES, THEN PUT IT BACK ON ITS ALIGNMENT MARK ON THE OIL PUMP HOUSING MARK, AND PROCEED WITH ALIGNMENT.

NOTE: EACH RATCHET TURN IS A QUARTER OF A TURN CLOCKWISE. LIKE A PIE CUT INTO FOURS THE SPROCKETS WILL SPRING/KICK INTO THE NEXT POSITION, CONTINUE DOING THAT UNTIL TIMING MARKS ARE REACHED. MAKE SURE TO TURN DRIVERS SIDE SPROCKET 1/8 TURN CLOCKWISE TO TURN TO IT MARK.

GOOD LUCK.

ADVISE:
WHILE IN THERE CHANGE:
THE WATER PUMP
THE TIMING BELT ALONG WITH THE TIMING TENSIONER. THE TIMING TENSIONER IS THE MOST LIKELY TO GO MOST OFTEN (THAT IS WHAT MAKES THAT LOUD CLACKING NOISE.

SYMPTOMS:
1. CAR HAS FULL POWER ON ACCELERATION AND HWY
2. AT IDLE CLACKING SOUNDS LOUDEST'
3. AT 2-3 K RPMS CLACKING NOISE DISAPPEARS
4. AT IDLE LOW OIL PRESSURE (BELT LOOSE NOT RUNNING OIL PUMP EFFECIENTLY).

DON'T JUNK IT IF YOU CAN FIX IT.

$80 DOLLAR TENSIONER PART SAVES GOOD SUV.
NEW WATER PUMP AND NEW TIMING BELT SAVES PAIN, TIME, AND MONEY LATER.

IF YOU INSTALL NEW WATER PUMP, BEFORE INSTALLING NEW ONE USE OLD ONE (IF IT PUSHES WATER) TO FLUSH OUT SYSTEM-USE PRESTONE SUPER FLUSH.

DO ALL ITEMS AT ONCE (EASIER) OR DO IT PIECE MEAL ONE AT A TIME ( MUCH HARDER).

TAKE CARE