Stalling p-10?

I have a p-10 that is begining to stall after it has been driven for more than 10 minutes or driven hard, if even just for a few minutes. I had my alternator tested and it is good. My car is a stick and I have a stillen intake. When the problem started a couple of months ago, I cleaned my intake and that fixed it. Now the car has started acting up again and was wondering if anyone had any ideas. The car does not do this always just like maybe 1 or 2 times a day. After it sits for a hour or so it starts and idles fine. Just wondering if it could be my oxygen sensor or if someone has had a similar problem.

The G20 is cool.

have you tryied checking you timing ?
might have crap in your gas tank sucks it up thru the line

Thats all i can think of hope it helps
sleepy:devil:

my idle jumps a lot too. i think its the idle. try to adjust that and see if it works. :D

check yoiur Throtle Postion Sensor

Get your hands on a volt meter and measure your throttle position sensor and your hot wire sensor ground. I'll have to get back to you on some other things. I remember reading this symptom in my Service Manual. If you know anybody local that was/is the first owner of a P10, they should have the service manual. If your lucky it might get passed down o a used car.

You might also want to check the MAF sensor ground with a voltimeter. There is a procedure right up on it on the SE-R.net at:

http://se-r.net/engine/maf_ground.html

Something else that might cause this is your EGR and/or BPT valves not working properly. This happened on my '91 NX2000 about 3 years ago. I originally just put a rubber nipple on the EGR valve and the BPT valve and that cured the problem for about 1.5 years then the EGR finally gave in. I cut a plate out of thick aluminum and placed it in between the EGR valve and the intake to seal the EGR off completely. Worked like charm. Even though I sold the car recently, the new owner says it is still running strong with over 128,000 miles.

The diaphragm on the EGR valve might not be completely closing for a tight seal essentially causing a vacuum leak. Or the tube that runs to the BPT valve is clogged due to carbon build up etc.

There is also a lot of info regading this on the SE-R.net.

Hope this helps!

I recently had the same problem with my P10 G20 and after changing the plugs(x4),
the rotor, the dizzy cap, coil and leads I had enough so I went to Nissan and they
adjusted the TPS which was reading 0.02V instead of -45V apparently which has made
a good difference but I was told the AAC(or IAC valve as they call it) requires overhauling.

I suggest biting the bullet and getting Nissan to run a diagnostic check.

While I'm here... has anyone had to adjust their AAC valve and what the hell is
involved in overhauling one? Anybody?

Once I get going again I can give my car another run down the Quarter mile.:D

Just wanted to let you guys know the I called the dealer and the suggested reseting the ecu, then unplugging/replugging the mass air flow sensor. I didn't understand what unplugging the MAS would do , but never-the-less it fixed the problem....for now anyway!!

G20-KIWI,

Welcome to the forum.....more and more KIWIS here now

I'm sure my Haynes manual covers ths AAC valve. Let me know if you want me to look it up for you.

Yeah I have the Haynes manual (quite good) and I have seen what an AAC valve looks
like but the pictures are a little vauge. Like the pictures dont show where it is or how
you overhaul it, I think maybe you pull it apart and replace the spring inside but
I dont want to damage by accident. Dodsons wants $120 for the AAC valve but I have to
get the numbers from it first and as I dont know where it is so I cant get the number.
Thanks anyway dude good to see so many Kiwis here and no Aussies.
I used to have a T4 myself but auto, I wrote it off dammit. Wasnt me though, bitch in magna
station wagon ran a red light and KABOOOOM! $7500 damage to mine.
:(