help me please

I was recently given a 1986 eurosport coupe with the 2.8 mpfi. It sat
for many years when me and my friend rescued it. It ran fine, sat for
3 more months and now it doesnt run, it will start and then die after
it runs for about a second. I have replaced all tune up parts, new
distributer, fuel pump, strainer, fp wiring harness, coolant temp
sensor, coil, ecu, and i tryed to get a new fuel pump relay, but im
not sure which relay it is, there is a set of two on the strut tower
drivers side, with fuses on both sides, or there is one below that
which i didnt find untill i returned relay which changed nothing, and
also there is some nasty grease on all of the electronic connections,
i was curious if chevy did that from the factory or not, any comments
would be helpfull. I have spent too much time and money on this
project to stop now.

is the gas stale?

fuel regulator?

The fuel was emptied the tank was cleaned, and it still does it, and would the fuel pressure regulator do that??

Psst....hey dude....it's me....pssst.....over here.....your fuel filter dude

im not an amatuer, that was one of the first things i checked and replaced

im not an amatuer, that was one of the first things i checked and replaced

Is it not getting fuel or spark? You seem to be changing parts for both systems. Of course, it's possible that both systems are out. Can you look at the same or similar car while starting and running so that you can see what proper fuel flow looks like? If you pour some gas in to the throttle body or whatever you have and it runs longer, than it's probably fuel. Of course, if you are not getting spark, that probably doesn't mean anything.

I don't remember if you changed the ignition control module. Had to change mine. It's a flat module that sits on the distributor. Don't even know if your vehicle has one.

My old chevy truck has a test point that I ran 12 volts to in order to hear whether the fuel pump runs. Bypasses all the fuel relays, etc.,. If that does not work, you either bought a bad fuel pump or have a wiring problem to the fuel pump. Should be able to check for voltage at the sending unit connection, which could also be bad. I guess I am assuming that you have a tank mounted electrical pump. With electrical or mechanical, the gas in the throttle body tells you a lot.

By the way, I am definitely an amatuer. Good luck.

there is a crankshaft position sensor on the 2.8 check it. I ran into this before. Its between the block and transmission. It can be hard to see.

its been sitting a long time. did you check the tank filler cap and vents? maybe they are plugged creating a negative pressure.

Fuel pump.

check voltage at the coils when key is in "run" position -- sometimes they'll get power in "start" but when you let go & it goes back to the "run" position, a bad ignition switch will no longer provide power & they'll die right away. another very similar problem, check fuel pump for power in "run" position to see if the power AT the fuel pump (in tank most likely - you can check it at the wires near the tank) when cranking, and after it starts. if you're not sure about where to check for power on the coil, just take 1 spark plug wire off, put a spare spark plug in it, & start the thing. if it keeps sparking after you return the key to the run position (for the 1 second it keeps running) then you know it's not an ignition related problem, since it's still sparking. at that point, you can pretty much say it's a fuel delivery or ecm problem. put the plug wire back on & pull off the air cleaner. take a squirt bottle with some gas in it, spray a couple of squirts in the inlet & have someone else crank the motor over. when it starts, just before it dies, shoot some more fuel in the inlet. if it keeps running, then you know for sure it's a fuel delivery problem..... most likely the one i said above (losing power at the fuel pump when key is in run position - check for faulty ignition switch).