Sqeaking Brakes

should I just spray'm with Brake Kleen? Cause its annoying as hell.

I hate to be Captain Obvious, but did you check to make sure that the pads aren't shot?

I hate to be Captain Obvious, but did you check to make sure that the pads aren't shot?
Brakes are actually only 2 months old. Guy at garage that inspected it said they were in excellent shape.

well then brake kleen sounds like a good option. I can't think of anything else unless there's a problem with the calipers.

well then brake kleen sounds like a good option. I can't think of anything else unless there's a problem with the calipers.
Ive been trail ridin and gettin her real dirty lately. This one spot is real dusty. I think its from driving there. I just diddn't know if the Brake Kleen would f**k up any thing like rubber or plastic parts.

Yeh i changed my pads back in July and there squeking really bad now.I use brake cleaner from Advance and it doesnt squeke no moere

Yeh i changed my pads back in July and there squeking really bad now.I use brake cleaner from Advance and it doesnt squeke no moere
Right on!! going down 2 do it later.

I think my pads squeak because i drive on alot of dusty stone roads and there only 20 dollar pads so maybe thats your condition to a t

Hmm. Just changed my front pads out this afternoon. Now they are squeling a bit still. Do the new pads do this right off the start, or should I get some brake clean for them too?

I have redone my brakes on my truck and for others and I have yet to see ANY of them squeal. A few things to keep in mind:

Get your rotors dropped and turned for a mere .012 shave to remove any score marks and imperfections the older pads worn into the surface. This also makes the machinist check and measure for run-out and warpage. Never turn or re-use a rotor that's thinner than it's minimal spec stamped on it's side, by the wheel hub. Once you get them back from the shop, burnish them lightly with an emery cloth and then WASH them. Stack them in the dishwasher or put them in a pan of hot water and Dawn, Scrub them gooooooood and wash until water no longer beads, but evenly coats the rotor surface. Flush with a brake cleaner to get the water off them and let stand to air dry for 10 minutes.
When you re-assemble the new pads into the calipers, FLUSH every inch of the caliper and guide pins, cleaning threads and boots with brake cleaner until there is NOTHING on them. Coat the surfaces that rest on the pin slides, and the areas where the back plate(s) for the pads rest against with a high temp synthetic caliper grease. Buy *new* anti-rattle clips, use the anti-squeal compound that comes in the brake pad box on the clips and between backing plate and pad. Reassemble the works with your fresh pads and grease in place without getting the pads/rotor greasy with fingerprints. Once it's all bolted back together, flush them bad boys down once again with brake cleaner to be positive that there is no dust, fingerprint, or grease/brake fluid contamination. Turn the rotors by hand by using the stud bolts and make sure you get every inch of the rotors with the brake cleaner, front and back.

The next part is *important* for proper seating for noise free, maximum power when stopping:

Roll the truck forward up to 10 MPH and come to a complete, firm stop without locking the wheels on dry pavement. Stop her harsh enough to make your teeth rattle, but if ABS kicks in or your wheels chirp at a standstill, you're doing it too hard. Back up and brake firmly, repeating again, up to 10x.

Take her to a nearby parking lot, or a little used side street. Take her up to 25-30 MPH and again, come to full, firm stops just short of locking the wheels a few more times.

After that, drive gently for about 200 miles, anticipate your stops and keep your eyes up and forward in traffic to spot trouble early so you avoid totally *slamming* on the brakes or locking wheels. In this time, the brakes are still out-gassing curative compunds from the binding agents that make up the body of the pad. A short, sudden stop that spikes the heat on pads and rotors will cause the gasses to not vent properly and get up to a temperature where they bond and glaze your rotors and drums. This will lead to squeals and squeaks down the line as this glazing never wears off unless taken off by hand, or the rotors re-turned at a machine shop.

Or do what I did, get DOT certified OEM replacement shoes in a full ceramic formulation. Long wearing, cooler running, and no noise whatsoever. And if you get them speced properly, will still allow you to tow and ride the brakes down the sides of mountains with NO brake fade. They have totally FLAT thermal characteristics and resist fading like none other on the planet. I am still waiting for someone that makes a ceramic shoe for the rear drums, but have had no luck thus far. However, if you have 4-wheel discs like on newer models of the Blazer and Trailblazer, you can find them easily enough. Good luck guys!
Oh, and half the time if there is a bit of brake squeal, it's usually dust build up that makes the rotor vibrate when pressure is placed on it. Blasting them down with a good, strong, Chlorinated solvent will get them stripped down to being practically sterile and stop the squeak. If she still squeaks, check for pad wear, don't rely on "I just changed them two months ago" - for all you know, a pin is bent, or a caliper has bound and wore a pad to nothing in that time, or fractured it from heat, making the two halves that pad material split and vibrate at a harmonic that is heard through the rotor. I had this happen on a fresh set of "cheap pads" when I had a hung caliper on the passenger side of the truck. She eventually split the pad, but not before making lots of noise and squeals-n-screeches whether the brakes were applied or not. In my case, it was a collapsed brake line that acted like a check valve, it wasn't fully releasing the caliper when my boots came off the stop pedal. ;)

I have redone my brakes on my truck and for others and I have yet to see ANY of them squeal. A few things to keep in mind:

Get your rotors dropped and turned for a mere .012 shave to remove any score marks and imperfections the older pads worn into the surface. This also makes the machinist check and measure for run-out and warpage. Never turn or re-use a rotor that's thinner than it's minimal spec stamped on it's side, by the wheel hub. Once you get them back from the shop, burnish them lightly with an emery cloth and then WASH them. Stack them in the dishwasher or put them in a pan of hot water and Dawn, Scrub them gooooooood and wash until water no longer beads, but evenly coats the rotor surface. Flush with a brake cleaner to get the water off them and let stand to air dry for 10 minutes.
When you re-assemble the new pads into the calipers, FLUSH every inch of the caliper and guide pins, cleaning threads and boots with brake cleaner until there is NOTHING on them. Coat the surfaces that rest on the pin slides, and the areas where the back plate(s) for the pads rest against with a high temp synthetic caliper grease. Buy *new* anti-rattle clips, use the anti-squeal compound that comes in the brake pad box on the clips and between backing plate and pad. Reassemble the works with your fresh pads and grease in place without getting the pads/rotor greasy with fingerprints. Once it's all bolted back together, flush them bad boys down once again with brake cleaner to be positive that there is no dust, fingerprint, or grease/brake fluid contamination. Turn the rotors by hand by using the stud bolts and make sure you get every inch of the rotors with the brake cleaner, front and back.

The next part is *important* for proper seating for noise free, maximum power when stopping:

Roll the truck forward up to 10 MPH and come to a complete, firm stop without locking the wheels on dry pavement. Stop her harsh enough to make your teeth rattle, but if ABS kicks in or your wheels chirp at a standstill, you're doing it too hard. Back up and brake firmly, repeating again, up to 10x.

Take her to a nearby parking lot, or a little used side street. Take her up to 25-30 MPH and again, come to full, firm stops just short of locking the wheels a few more times.

After that, drive gently for about 200 miles, anticipate your stops and keep your eyes up and forward in traffic to spot trouble early so you avoid totally *slamming* on the brakes or locking wheels. In this time, the brakes are still out-gassing curative compunds from the binding agents that make up the body of the pad. A short, sudden stop that spikes the heat on pads and rotors will cause the gasses to not vent properly and get up to a temperature where they bond and glaze your rotors and drums. This will lead to squeals and squeaks down the line as this glazing never wears off unless taken off by hand, or the rotors re-turned at a machine shop.

Or do what I did, get DOT certified OEM replacement shoes in a full ceramic formulation. Long wearing, cooler running, and no noise whatsoever. And if you get them speced properly, will still allow you to tow and ride the brakes down the sides of mountains with NO brake fade. They have totally FLAT thermal characteristics and resist fading like none other on the planet. I am still waiting for someone that makes a ceramic shoe for the rear drums, but have had no luck thus far. However, if you have 4-wheel discs like on newer models of the Blazer and Trailblazer, you can find them easily enough. Good luck guys!
Oh, and half the time if there is a bit of brake squeal, it's usually dust build up that makes the rotor vibrate when pressure is placed on it. Blasting them down with a good, strong, Chlorinated solvent will get them stripped down to being practically sterile and stop the squeak. If she still squeaks, check for pad wear, don't rely on "I just changed them two months ago" - for all you know, a pin is bent, or a caliper has bound and wore a pad to nothing in that time, or fractured it from heat, making the two halves that pad material split and vibrate at a harmonic that is heard through the rotor. I had this happen on a fresh set of "cheap pads" when I had a hung caliper on the passenger side of the truck. She eventually split the pad, but not before making lots of noise and squeals-n-screeches whether the brakes were applied or not. In my case, it was a collapsed brake line that acted like a check valve, it wasn't fully releasing the caliper when my boots came off the stop pedal. ;)
ok way too much to read. i have A.D.D. So im not even gonna attempt it. But I skimmed it. I went 4wheelin again today. At a huge rock quarry. tons of mud too. but I will give you guys a heads up mud at a rock quarry is saturated with little rocks. Little rocks get jammed in every part of your ride. I have pictures. will post tomarrow. The whole way home my wheels sounded like the bearings were grinding. I was f**king crazy. Took off my front wheel as soon as i could. caked mud everywhere. plus all that mud and probably a gazillion little rocks were jammed inbetween the back of the rotor and that plate. beat it with a rubber mallet. hosed it and brake kleen. and bada boom bada bing. hasn't squeeked or made a peep since. although now all the cool mud is washed off.

I figured out why my brakes were squeeking. Take a look at this!!
Heres something ya dont wanna see when you take your wheel off. And I must add, the couple of minutes of mud fun was not worth the couple hours of cleaning each brake assembly.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2686/0085qg.jpg

That cannot be good at all.

I like it dirty believe me..but that's a tad overboard for me.

I figured out why my brakes were squeeking. Take a look at this!!
Heres something ya dont wanna see when you take your wheel off. And I must add, the couple of minutes of mud fun was not worth the couple hours of cleaning each brake assembly.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2686/0085qg.jpg

Ahhhh! Been there myself! A few years back I decided to take my then brand-new Nissan 4x4 through a bog and grog competition. I went through the "easy" pit which was about 41/2 feet deep and spent the next week hosing the truck off. About 3 weeks later I took the truck in cause I had funny wear spots on the tires. The mechanic was able to almost fill a 50 gal garbage can with the mud and rocks he found under the skid plate and various other areas. They comped me some new tires anyway!

GirlBear, Hopefully you will be able to find your 11 zirk fittings before your next grease job, Happy Pressure Washing. The mud does look awsome though.

GirlBear, Hopefully you will be able to find your 11 zirk fittings before your next grease job, Happy Pressure Washing. The mud does look awsome though.
Zirk Fittings?

aka grease fittings.LOL