2002 Silverado, transmission pan removal

I would like to know what size bolts hold the shift linkage in place so I can take it off to get my transmission pan off. What kind of wrench is
best to use to take out the transmission drain plug?
Thanks!!

1. The shift linkage is a Torx bolt, I think T-45 or T-55, not sure. In general, it is MUCH easier to simply bend the sucker out of the way. Will not harm the bracket.

2. Most transmission drain plugs on this trucks are impossible to remove, I've only ever heard of one person having success getting it off. Most folks just wind up stripping the head off of the bolt. Just be careful to keep the pan balanced as you drop it! At least tranny fluid isn't hard to wash off like gas!

3. Be careful not to overtorque the pan bolts on reinstallation, 7-10 lb-ft I think. Much more will pinch the gasket and make it leak.

I used an impact to loosen my drain plug... It came off with relative ease. I don't remember the linkage bracket being a torx, but probably is as ApeOr said... I did remove mine though to get the pan down. The filter is very easy to remove, just pull down, and push the new on in.

I purchased a torx plus set of torx. The tp30 fits the mount bolt. A t35 torx will work available at eazypower.com Napa sells a tp10 thru tp50. S-K sells a TP set TP8 TP10 thru TP60 Sears or internet.
USA Tools on ebay sells a TP10 thru TP50 set of OTC for $19.95 plus shipping.The TP55 and TP60 cost around $25 for both shipping included. You have to email him and he sends you a link.
He UPS the small set the same day the large set is sent by OTC.
The drain bolt in the pan was super tight pushed in like a plunger. I removed mine with an extractor. Napa sells a set of Irwin or sears sells them. The 15mm made the bolt round and I used a 9/16 tapped it on and a 3/8 impact. The problem is it was so tight it lossened the big holder in the pan and I had to hold it in and tighten the drain plug by hand then use a box wrench.
I could watch the plug pull up like a plunger.
I would remove the pan use a small grinder as the gasket takes up about 3/32 if you are careful grind off the head as you get close it will start cracking at this point stop. After it cools you should be able to screw it out by hand.
Napa sells drain plug bolts for oil pans 12mm by 1.75mm they have a large black gasket.

I searched all over the internet for the answer on how to remove the drain plug and oil pan. I finally found the answer to both here. Thank you gys so much!

You will have to unbolt and remove the front driveshaft and the exhaust from the manifolds too.GM made it a pain in the butt and I have done one so far this way.

You will have to unbolt and remove the front driveshaft and the exhaust from the manifolds too.GM made it a pain in the butt and I have done one so far this way.
I disagree with you on the drive shafts and manifolds removal. this is one job of trans pan removal thats easy on this one. the bracket torx screws are in a little tight spot. my drain plug was lock tight on, removed pan then used torch, drain plug came off ok. now when i change fluid i use drain plug much easier. also use the napa store rubber gasket. found napa store deep filter, the exact same fiter, same numbers stamped in plastic base, as the gm filter, only difference napa filter 20.oo dealer 57.00. 23.oo total with rubber gasket. I change fluid every 30-50,000 usually the filter too but only if dirty. mobil synthetic fluid much faster shifts especially at 20 degrees and colder.

Yes,you have to unbolt the cross over and front diveshaft.Bend the bracket for the shift cable just enough to clear.Had one in and the customer wanted the transmission fluid and filter changed.Tried to get the pan out and would not come out at all.There is a tip on the black pan gaskets that come with the filter kits: THROW THEM AWAY!!!.They leak and do not seal very good,get a cork gasket instead.Plus when they come out of the box,they are horrible to staighten out.

Yes,you have to unbolt the cross over and front diveshaft.Bend the bracket for the shift cable just enough to clear.Had one in and the customer wanted the transmission fluid and filter changed.Tried to get the pan out and would not come out at all.There is a tip on the black pan gaskets that come with the filter kits: THROW THEM AWAY!!!.They leak and do not seal very good,get a cork gasket instead.Plus when they come out of the box,they are horrible to staighten out.
I have done this tran fluid change out 4x and I honestly have no idea what your talking about . the only tight area is the torx screw area but this is very easy and as for the gaskets the rubber pan gasket is the only way to go lasts forever obviously if you over torque it it will damage pan and then it will leak. I use 1/4 drive torque wrench torque to 7ft lbs then after 1 week retorque. my all my vehicles has never leaked.

I have done this tran fluid change out 4x and I honestly have no idea what your talking about . the only tight area is the torx screw area but this is very easy and as for the gaskets the rubber pan gasket is the only way to go lasts forever obviously if you over torque it it will damage pan and then it will leak. I use 1/4 drive torque wrench torque to 7ft lbs then after 1 week retorque. my all my vehicles has never leaked.

I think he may be talking about a 4x4. I have not had to disconnect anything other than the shift linkage on my 2wd.

This was a 4x4 and I forgot to mention that.I don't torque them,I tighten them with a 3/8 impact and have never leaked.I hate the black pan gaskets and throw them away.All I hear about the black pan gaskets are they are junk,leak and get thrown away.The Cork gasket is better and I have replaced the black pangaskets,they leaked and were thrown away

gentlemen look at the dates on this thread, way too old please start a new one when you see this, thanks.