Engine knocking then quit running altogether

95 blazer 4.3 CPI ODBI

Concerning the sea foam post and fouling or otherwise foam the plugs as BlazerLT put it. I beleive that's where I'm at right now. Any suggestions on what to do. Pull all the plugs and clean?

Here's the history.

Replaced EGR, cleaned EGR several times since. Still getting carbon pellets. Replaced spark plugs, wires, oil, filter. Then did a sea foam application. Some in the PCV valve for chamber cleansing, some in the crankcase and a can to the gas tank. I changed the oil since the add.

I was getting a knocking sound in the engine. To me it seemed to be the number six cylinder, could have been any on that side of the engine for sure though. Noise was loudest there. The engine screeched to a halt yesterday when I was listening for possible fuel pressure issue while looking into why my vehicle is running so rough. Please tell me there are ways to check to see if I didn't sieze the engine.

Blazer LT, I've read a lot of your post around this subject already, and plan to start looking to things you mention that I haven't done.

I plan to pull the spark plugs and after inspecting a cleaning, yet while they are out I will try and turn the engine manually? I know to disconnect battery as I read your warning on that as well.

Right now the only thing I didn't do was cap and rotor.

Fuel pressure was 60 psi and holding, until I did a can of sea foam in the gas tank, now it drops to around 30 if I don't start the car. If I do (or did) start it ran rough, and made the knocking noise. I'm thinking it's possible inside the intake plenum that I need to take a look at as you did in your other post replacing the CPI or whatever the thread called.

Could this be an oil pump or something related issure. It had oil, although it had been run low in the past, and I know that isn't a good sign, but did run fine until now, but all I did was replace the EGR valve.

All, any suggestions would be appreciated...

Your engine is knocking because your oil is probably full of fuel from a leaking CPI injector.

Do a search for

CPI injector

Your engine is knocking because your oil is probably full of fuel from a leaking CPI injector.

Do a search for

CPI injector

It could be a thrown rod. I did the same thing on an 1982 Olds. I added an oil cleaner additive and threw a rod the next day. :uhoh:

Oooh, don't like the sound of that (thrown rod).

I'll be peeking under the vortex plate and upper plenum over the next day or so...I'll be sure and let everyone know what I find.

How would I know if a rod is thrown, not able to manually turn motor?

Anything else I should be aware of or on the lookout for?

By the way, I'm a "wanna be mechanic". Patience, I have, a lot of mechanical background I do not... Lack of money drives me to want to do these fixes myself whenever possible...

Oooh, don't like the sound of that (thrown rod).

I'll be peeking under the vortex plate and upper plenum over the next day or so...I'll be sure and let everyone know what I find.

How would I know if a rod is thrown, not able to manually turn motor?

Anything else I should be aware of or on the lookout for?

By the way, I'm a "wanna be mechanic". Patience, I have, a lot of mechanical background I do not... Lack of money drives me to want to do these fixes myself whenever possible...

The first thing is to check your dipstick like BlazerLT said.

If there is no presence of Gasoline in your oil and the oil level is normal, the next thing I'd do is try turning the engine over manually.

Disconnect the battery and use the appropriate socket and ratchet.

If the engine seems to turn over o.k. manually, you might try removing ALL of the spark plugs and cranking the starter (after you reconnect the battery) this might help you to pin point the knocking noise.

Checking for gas in the oil pan is just the start.

Do the real CPI check by removing the IMTV valve in the top of the plenum and look in and look for washing like the other cpi injector threads have talked about.

Checking for gas in the oil pan is just the start.

Do the real CPI check by removing the IMTV valve in the top of the plenum and look in and look for washing like the other cpi injector threads have talked about.

I looked, it's washed. I'm going in deeper and planning on just replacing the parts as you have recommended.

CPI Unit
Nut Kit
Gasket

BlazerLT,
I am wondering, should I get a CPI unit from the dealer, or the GP-Sorenson part on Autozone? Or is it the same thing? Obviously the AZ is cheaper or I wouldn't even ask. It saves about 50 bucks (always good), but I don't want to by cheap stuff. Is it a viable replacement? I've already got the nut kit from the dealer.

I looked, it's washed. I'm going in deeper and planning on just replacing the parts as you have recommended.

CPI Unit
Nut Kit
Gasket

BlazerLT,
I am wondering, should I get a CPI unit from the dealer, or the GM-Sorenson part on Autozone? Or is it the same thing? Obviously the AZ is cheaper or I wouldn't even ask. It saves about 50 bucks (always good), but I don't want to by cheap stuff. Is it a viable replacement? I've already got the nut kit from the dealer.

Did you have a lot of gas in the oil?

Did you have a lot of gas in the oil?

It did smell like gas...It is a fresh change also, I didn't/haven't drained it again

According to all these threads, that plus the washing on the passenger side, that I could see through the IMTV valve indicated I need to get inside there. Didn't have time lst night, but will be at it again this afternoon.

I'm waiting now to dig into the plenum.

It did smell like gas...It is a fresh change also, I didn't/haven't drained it again

According to all these threads, that plus the washing on the passenger side, that I could see through the IMTV valve indicated I need to get inside there. Didn't have time lst night, but will be at it again this afternoon.

I'm waiting now to dig into the plenum.

Go get a service manual before you do it to help you do it properly.

The GP injector is completely fine.

Also, clean your EGR gas hole in the upper plenum cover while you have it off.

More info can be found here:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113559&highlight=cpi+replacement

It did smell like gas...It is a fresh change also, I didn't/haven't drained it again

According to all these threads, that plus the washing on the passenger side, that I could see through the IMTV valve indicated I need to get inside there. Didn't have time lst night, but will be at it again this afternoon.

I'm waiting now to dig into the plenum.

Look at your dipstick, is there "OIL" above the FULL mark? If so, how much? 1 inch, 2 inches?

Go get a service manual before you do it to help you do it properly.

The GP injector is completely fine.

Also, clean your EGR gas hole in the upper plenum cover while you have it off.

More info can be found here:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113559&highlight=cpi+replacement

I've printed your work already for additional reference...

Right, I will tackle the EGR as well. Thanks for reply.

I take it when you say service manual, you are talking about like a Haynes guide. I already have that...

By the way, BlazerLT and RickN, thanks for the all the help here...

Look at your dipstick, is there "OIL" above the FULL mark? If so, how much? 1 inch, 2 inches?

I noticed the smell, maybe a there was and excess, because I didn't put but 4 quarts and it was reading full. should have been 4.5 with filter change.

So maybe it had gas in there. I really haven't looked back at it since it stopped running, I know it was fresh oil, still clean, did smell like gas, and I did wonder why the level was higher than I expected.

I haven't tried to crank since, and I haven't pulled the plugs and tried to crank either, I also have not tried to manually turn the engine...

But like I say, now I'm kind of follwing the motions of looking for a problem up stream from the oil with gas smell, specifically an injector leak, because the gas pressure goes to 60 then bleads down to 25-30 after two second pressurizing, so I'm assuming it leaked it into the oil and it caused the knocking sound as well as the engine screeching to a halt.

Already having verified that washing is occuring, I'm following those fixes.

Drop the oil ASAP and don't fill it back up until you have fixed it.

You have a major leak.

Drop the oil ASAP and don't fill it back up until you have fixed it.

You have a major leak.
I repeat, Look at your dipstick and see how high the oil is above the full mark, and then do like BlazerLT says, drain the oil. My suspicion is that if the crankcase was full of gas/oil mixture, you may have done some major internal damage to the engine bearings and pistons. Before you spend a lot of time and money replacing parts, make sure the engine is not siezed and will at least turn over manually. If you cannot get the engine to turn over using a socket wrench and a socket, you could be wasting your time by replacing the Nut Kit etc.

Got it, I'll look when I get home...

Well, the engine did turn over...

So that being said. I went ahead and pulled the upper plenum. The gas deposits and washing on the passenger side confirmed the leaking injectors. I made the switch of all parts (LT that T-30 screw on the back of the plenum was a b!itch, you just have a better attitude) But everything else was pretty straight forward. I was very methodical and it took roughly half a day or 6 hours (once again, very, very methodical and deliberate). I checked the pressure prior to intstalling plenum and yes it went to 60 psi and held stead after the 2 second pulse of fuel.

Now, the bad news. It cranked and still is making the nasty metallic banging sound I heard before, I guess the damage has been done further downstream after all.

My question is, what am I looking at now? It still knocking, and (not sure how to describe it) squeling/screeching. So, I'm thinking it's beyond my capabilities and I"m going to get it into a shop.

I don't believe I wasted money, unless I change engines, because this work had to be done, but like I said now I'm at a point that is probably beyond my abilities...

I would appreciate any and all advice prior to me calling around so I can somewhat know what to expect in these conversations and recommendations by the local (and trusted from what I understand) automotive garage.

Well, the engine did turn over...

So that being said. I went ahead and pulled the upper plenum. The gas deposits and washing on the passenger side confirmed the leaking injectors. I made the switch of all parts (LT that T-30 screw on the back of the plenum was a b!itch, you just have a better attitude) But everything else was pretty straight forward. I was very methodical and it took roughly half a day or 6 hours (once again, very, very methodical and deliberate). I checked the pressure prior to intstalling plenum and yes it went to 60 psi and held stead after the 2 second pulse of fuel.

Now, the bad news. It cranked and still is making the nasty metallic banging sound I heard before, I guess the damage has been done further downstream after all.

My question is, what am I looking at now? It still knocking, and (not sure how to describe it) squeling/screeching. So, I'm thinking it's beyond my capabilities and I"m going to get it into a shop.

I don't believe I wasted money, unless I change engines, because this work had to be done, but like I said now I'm at a point that is probably beyond my abilities...

I would appreciate any and all advice prior to me calling around so I can somewhat know what to expect in these conversations and recommendations by the local (and trusted from what I understand) automotive garage.
I'm guessing, but I'd say you possibly threw a rod. That means that the bearing on one (or More) of your connecting rods has been Worn excessively out due to lack of oil or has loosend. So what you are hearing is the crank shaft and the connecting rod beating each other or KNOCKING every time the crank rotates. If this is the case, you have a couple of different options. You can either repair the existing engine or swap it out.

For my money, if indeed you have thrown a rod, I'd look into buying a long block. That is basically a rebuilt engine block and head assembly that you would remove everything from your old engine right down to the dipstick and re-install it on your new block. You can usually find these long blocks and also mechanics willing to install them at any reputable parts store or garage. I haven't done one in a long time but I'd guess that you would be looking at $1000-$1500 USD for the Long block. More than likely if you do that, you won't be wasting the money you spent on the Nut Kit. Labor would be extra.

Can you post a sound clip of this noise?

Check all plugs, you might have a fouled plug not firing.

Can you post a sound clip of this noise?

Check all plugs, you might have a fouled plug not firing.Based on the description of the noise, It sounds too much like a thrown rod. Spark plugs don't Squeal. But I've been wrong before. I have had to replace the nut kit on my 1993 twice and neither time did it knock. I guess I got lucky, but the combination of the Seafoam loosening up all the crud in this engine and then diluting the oil with gas probably did it in.

Just based on the sound I have to agree with Rick. It just sounds that way, I can recheck the plugs.

Sound byte huh? It's worth a try so I'll have to look into that one...I might have a camera here at work that will record that for me...

Pull off one plug wire at a time and run the engine. If it's a connecting rod bearing, the knock will quiet down when that plug is not firing.

Pull off one plug wire at a time and run the engine. If it's a connecting rod bearing, the knock will quit down when that plug is not firing.

I think you mean Quiet down not Quit when you pull the plug wire on the offending cylinder.:grinyes:

Just based on the sound I have to agree with Rick. It just sounds that way, I can recheck the plugs.

Sound byte huh? It's worth a try so I'll have to look into that one...I might have a camera here at work that will record that for me...

Any news? Have you been able to determine what your noise is yet? Keep us posted!

Any news? Have you been able to determine what your noise is yet? Keep us posted!

No not yet. I'm looking into getting a sound byte, yet I still have that bad feeling you may be right.

It makes the noise even with all the belt unattatched, it's definitely internal...

I did have a buddy mention he had a coworker who just so happened to have a vortec v6 sitting in his garage. He had apparently removed one from a truck and replaced it with something for more of a racing or hot-rod engine. The one he took out wasn't neccesarily bad I don't believe.

I'm going to look into that as an option once I know for sure if I need one, but I was wondering what kind of range I have as far as year model, or does it even matter?

I'm thinking it's going to have to be a 95 or older with the computer and everything else, or am I mistaken??

I will keep up here what I do, whichever way I go. I just haven't been able to do anything so far this week...

No not yet. I'm looking into getting a sound byte, yet I still have that bad feeling you may be right.

It makes the noise even with all the belt unattatched, it's definitely internal...

I did have a buddy mention he had a coworker who just so happened to have a vortec v6 sitting in his garage. He had apparently removed one from a truck and replaced it with something for more of a racing or hot-rod engine. The one he took out wasn't neccesarily bad I don't believe.

I'm going to look into that as an option once I know for sure if I need one, but I was wondering what kind of range I have as far as year model, or does it even matter?

I'm thinking it's going to have to be a 95 or older with the computer and everything else, or am I mistaken??

I will keep up here what I do, whichever way I go. I just haven't been able to do anything so far this week...

I'm not sure about years and models, and your probably right about all the electronics and on-board computers.

But if you want my two cents, I'd look for a rebuilt long block that is made for your truck and will fit your truck. Most rebuilders will back-up what they sell.

My biggest fear would be that I'd spend all the time and trouble to swap out the engine only to find that I've just traded one problem for another.

Have you priced out a Long Block yet?

gmyoyo, you said that you replaced the plugs and wires. Are you sure that the wires are lined up correctly with the proper terminal on the distributor?
When I did my first Blazer tune up, I mistakenly mixed up the 1 & 3 wires and the engine ran rough and sounded like someone was banging on it with a hammer. Just something to check.

Yip, I would check that.

Yip, I would check that.

Thanks, I will double ensure that the plugs are going to the right place...
Can't until tonight so it will be tomorrow before I come back with and answer...

No I haven't done any pricing yet. Any ideas and suggestions on where I would go to find that kind of information (should it come down to that) would be appreciated...

Thanks, I will double ensure that the plugs are going to the right place...
Can't until tonight so it will be tomorrow before I come back with and answer...

No I haven't done any pricing yet. Any ideas and suggestions on where I would go to find that kind of information (should it come down to that) would be appreciated...

Do you live near a big city? If so, which one?

If you go to a NAPA parts store that has been around for a while, I'm sure they can direct you to a local rebuild shop, or help you find a long block.

The key thing is to do your home work. Price them out and try to find the ones that replace the most components with new parts, longest warranty, etc.

cheapest i found cpi for was 295 at gmpartszone.com. maybe cheaper if u can get it off ebay.

cheapest i found cpi for was 295 at gmpartszone.com. maybe cheaper if u can get it off ebay.

Plug wires are correct... I pulled the plug on the side where I feel the noise is and still had same noise, so no noticable difference there. It squelching really bad. Belt is still off so it's not an accesory either.

Cranks amazingly great though, must be the new cpi and nut kit...

There is a muffled knocking and a loud screeching/squelching sound made when the engine is running. Does not sound good, still don't have a recording device to get a sound clip, but I will before moving to next stage...sound is stronger on same side where obvious washing was in intake plenum...

gmyoyo, if it is a constant, regular knock that increases with engine RPM, it is probably a rod bearing knock or more commonly known as a thrown rod.

gmyoyo, if it is a constant, regular knock that increases with engine RPM, it is probably a rod bearing knock or more commonly known as a thrown rod.


OK, I've got a sound clip/video. It's in wmf format. I think it's pretty clear as to the knocking and the squelching. I tried to capture the puff of smoke out of the tailpipe (that's why the video swings to the back of the vehicle then back to the engine, not very good job, but the sound is clear), which I think is some of the sea foam still doing it's thing, it only smoked at crank and then no more. I ran it for about a 10 second run then shut the engine off.

Let me know who wants a copy to listen to, or if I can put it out here somewhere for you all to access. I'm going to try and upload it to my images gallery, but I'm not sure if that is the correct thing to do.

Obvisously you moderators don't want to broadcast your emails and really neither do I so I'm not sure what or how we will transmit this wmf file without your feedback...

OK, I've got a sound clip/video. It's in wmf format. I think it's pretty clear as to the knocking and the squelching. I tried to capture the puff of smoke out of the tailpipe (that's why the video swings to the back of the vehicle then back to the engine, not very good job, but the sound is clear), which I think is some of the sea foam still doing it's thing, it only smoked at crank and then no more. I ran it for about a 10 second run then shut the engine off.

Let me know who wants a copy to listen to, or if I can put it out here somewhere for you all to access. I'm going to try and upload it to my images gallery, but I'm not sure if that is the correct thing to do.

Obvisously you moderators don't want to broadcast your emails and really neither do I so I'm not sure what or how we will transmit this wmf file without your feedback...

Get it hosted somewhere and post the link to it here.

We need to hear this.

Get it hosted somewhere and post the link to it here.

We need to hear this.

Try this

http://www.geocities.com/gmyoyo/95BlazerEngineKnock.wmv

Thanks in advance

That sounds like you have a main bearing shot or the firing order is out of whack.

That sounds like you have a main bearing shot or the firing order is out of whack.

Well, Hmmm, I just don't believe the firing order is our of wack, I didn't do but one wire at a time and I didn't remove the distributor at all. I can recheck though and maybe draw a rough diagram and post it to give all a chance to check it also.

Main bearing??? Hard to fix...options???

Try this

http://www.geocities.com/gmyoyo/95BlazerEngineKnock.wmv

Thanks in advance

Did I hear this correctly? Did the knocking seem to get quieter towards the end? The squeak seemed to stay about the same. Listen to this again only this time think bad Lifter as opposed to bearing knock.

Could the Seafoam possibly have trashed a lifter?

Did I hear this correctly? Did the knocking seem to get quieter towards the end? The squeak seemed to stay about the same. Listen to this again only this time think bad Lifter as opposed to bearing knock.

Could the Seafoam possibly have trashed a lifter?

What about the screeching noise? That is not caused by a lifter.

What about the screeching noise? That is not caused by a lifter.

I was thinking lifter for a minute when I thought I heard the knocking get a little quiter. Hard to tell with a 10 second sound bit.

O.K. I'm going back to my original thought, bearing knock, you may think main, I'm thinking rod. We could both be right, or both wrong. The screeching could be cam bearing. If this engine is as trashed as I think it is, I'm sure there is more than one problem. My theory, if anyone is interested, is that the seafoam broke loose a bunch of sludge/grit/crap and wiped out the bearings. At very least, the crank is toast as well as probably many other components.

When my 82 Olds blew, I had one real bad thrown rod, but I also had two others that were loose.

gmyoyo, I think you better start pricing long blocks.

I am thinking the fuel flooded the oil and destroyed a main or cam bearing as well.

Engine is toast either way.

Just curious...hows the oil pressure when its running?

Nasty, sounds like major crankshaft carnage in there. Time to get a new engine. You drive that one around, you're gonna wind up with a nice big hole in the block and an oiled-down road in the rearview mirror.

I am thinking the fuel flooded the oil and destroyed a main or cam bearing as well.

Engine is toast either way.

This may come as a big surprise to everyone, but we finally agree for a change! LOL. In my earlier posts on this thread I mentioned the same thing, the fuel diluting the oil.

gmyoyo, I don't mean to make light of your situation, but I, as well as most of these others have pretty well determined that your engine is probably going to require a major overhaul. At minimum, this is going to include new bearings, a crank grind or replacement, and probably a major amount of expensive work. My advice is to buy a rebuilt long block.

Nasty, sounds like major crankshaft carnage in there. Time to get a new engine. You drive that one around, you're gonna wind up with a nice big hole in the block and an oiled-down road in the rearview mirror.


All,
I appreciate your inputs, and just a note. I'm not driving it, it sounds too bad. I haven't check the oil pressure with anything other than the gauge on the dash, seems to act normal. Oil is in the crankshaft...

I'm hearing engine replace...so, I'm going to start pricing that out.

I don't think the knocking gets any quieter, it pretty much remains constant as long as engine is running, and the squelching remains as well. which is why I don't leave it running.

Don't know if I can blame the sea foam application, but with a healthy dose of I should have known better...or if the injector leaking into the oil...Either eay it's kind of a mute point.

Hear we go to the engine store... I'll keep posting my progress...

Sounds to me like main bearing problem. The higher pitched sound is piston skirts as they hit the cyl wall at slightly different angles with the extra vibrations coming from the crank. You still have a repairable motor if you stop driving it now. It's time to pull it out and see what you've got.

All,
I appreciate your inputs, and just a note. I'm not driving it, it sounds too bad. I haven't check the oil pressure with anything other than the gauge on the dash, seems to act normal. Oil is in the crankshaft...

I'm hearing engine replace...so, I'm going to start pricing that out.

I don't think the knocking gets any quieter, it pretty much remains constant as long as engine is running, and the squelching remains as well. which is why I don't leave it running.

Don't know if I can blame the sea foam application, but with a healthy dose of I should have known better...or if the injector leaking into the oil...Either eay it's kind of a mute point.

Hear we go to the engine store... I'll keep posting my progress...

I think there is a valuable lesson here, and is one that I've been preaching about for a while now. Filling your crank case full of these miracle cleaners can be harmful. I know the shelves at your local parts stores are full of these wonder drugs for your engine, but Buyer beware!

Nothing beats a good regular maintenance routine. NOTHING! That means changing your oil regularly!

There are posts full of information on oils and oil filters on this forum and there is just flat no excuse for not keeping your oil changed. That doesn't mean buying the cheapest .49 cent oil at Wal-mart and Fram oil filters, but if that is all you can afford it is better than leaving the sludged up oil in the engine for years on end. :2cents:

gmyoyo, Please don't mistake this for a lecture, but please consider this as friendly information sharing to others in hopes of preventing this from happening to someone else.

I think there is a valuable lesson here, and is one that I've been preaching about for a while now. Filling your crank case full of these miracle cleaners can be harmful. I know the shelves at your local parts stores are full of these wonder drugs for your engine, but Buyer beware!

Nothing beats a good regular maintenance routine. NOTHING! That means changing your oil regularly!

There are posts full of information on oils and oil filters on this forum and there is just flat no excuse for not keeping your oil changed. That doesn't mean buying the cheapest .49 cent oil at Wal-mart and Fram oil filters, but if that is all you can afford it is better than leaving the sludged up oil in the engine for years on end. :2cents:

gmyoyo, Please don't mistake this for a lecture, but please consider this as friendly information sharing to others in hopes of preventing this from happening to someone else.

I didn't take it as one...lesson learned (the expensive way)...funny, I always wanted to be aposter child for something positive, but surely this is not it!!!!

I think there is a valuable lesson here, and is one that I've been preaching about for a while now. Filling your crank case full of these miracle cleaners can be harmful. I know the shelves at your local parts stores are full of these wonder drugs for your engine, but Buyer beware!

Nothing beats a good regular maintenance routine. NOTHING! That means changing your oil regularly!

There are posts full of information on oils and oil filters on this forum and there is just flat no excuse for not keeping your oil changed. That doesn't mean buying the cheapest .49 cent oil at Wal-mart and Fram oil filters, but if that is all you can afford it is better than leaving the sludged up oil in the engine for years on end. :2cents:

gmyoyo, Please don't mistake this for a lecture, but please consider this as friendly information sharing to others in hopes of preventing this from happening to someone else.


Whoa whoa whoa there, let's stop blaming the cleaning agent Rick.

This was caused by the fuel entering the oil, not the seafoam. This is why we say if you have a 1992-95 CPI engine, best replace the injector and nut kit even if it is not completely shot.

Whoa whoa whoa there, let's stop blaming the cleaning agent Rick.

This was caused by the fuel entering the oil, not the seafoam. This is why we say if you have a 1992-95 CPI engine, best replace the injector and nut kit even if it is not completely shot.

Just when I thought we found a little middle ground. LOL. I agree on the diluted oil theory, we both stated it in previous posts on this thread, but I can’t help but think the Seafoam/cruddy oil contributed to the problem.

You know first hand that many people (myself included) have had their CPI and Nut Kit go bad and leak gas into the oil and they didn’t suffer the extensive engine damage that gmyoyo is seeing.

All I am saying is "BUYER BEWARE" of these miracle cleaners.

I've seen people use engine cleaners and destroy their engines. Yes, the cleaner did its job, but it did it so well, that it softened a lot of sludge, and caused oil galleries in the engine(mains, piston, rods oil holes) to clog up and allow that part to run dry....and boom rod knock, main, cam bearings all running dry and spinning and destroying them. Gas does that same thing in the oil...notice how clean the lower plenum is in a CPI engine when the spider is leaking...?

I've seen people use engine cleaners and destroy their engines. Yes, the cleaner did its job, but it did it so well, that it softened a lot of sludge, and caused oil galleries in the engine(mains, piston, rods oil holes) to clog up and allow that part to run dry....and boom rod knock, main, cam bearings all running dry and spinning and destroying them. Gas does that same thing in the oil...notice how clean the lower plenum is in a CPI engine when the spider is leaking...?

This is not the case.

The huge fuel leak is the cause here.

Just when I thought we found a little middle ground. LOL. I agree on the diluted oil theory, we both stated it in previous posts on this thread, but I can’t help but think the Seafoam/cruddy oil contributed to the problem.

You know first hand that many people (myself included) have had their CPI and Nut Kit go bad and leak gas into the oil and they didn’t suffer the extensive engine damage that gmyoyo is seeing.

All I am saying is "BUYER BEWARE" of these miracle cleaners.

Nah, he could have hydrolocked a cylinder with fuel which caused the bearing failure and maybe a bent rod.

I have used water decarbonizing and GM top end cleaner and have NO PROBLEMS.

Stop with the fear mongering about this case. IT WAS NOT CAUSED BY THE CLEANER, IT WAS CAUSED BY OIL FAILURE.

Nah, he could have hydrolocked a cylinder with fuel which caused the bearing failure and maybe a bent rod.

I have used water decarbonizing and GM top end cleaner and have NO PROBLEMS.

Stop with the fear mongering about this case. IT WAS NOT CAUSED BY THE CLEANER, IT WAS CAUSED BY OIL FAILURE.

I agree with Rick about being careful about throwing additives in your engine....defiently buyer beware.

Fear Mongering.....LOL...unfortunatly his engine is toast, what fear mongering?..the damage IS done, he's stating his opinion. I am glad you voiced your OPINION too.

I have used all of the GM supplements, cleaners and additives too, and never had a problem, but it COULD happen - other additives included, not saying this is the case here, but it is possible, how exactly can you just shun and say no? What other creditable information do you have that would say otherwise other than your opinion?

Nah, he could have hydrolocked a cylinder with fuel which caused the bearing failure and maybe a bent rod.

I have used water decarbonizing and GM top end cleaner and have NO PROBLEMS.

Stop with the fear mongering about this case. IT WAS NOT CAUSED BY THE CLEANER, IT WAS CAUSED BY OIL FAILURE.

I also have used engine flush successfully per your instructions on this Forum. I have also lost an engine using flush. It is up to each of us to make our own decision when buying or using these products.

As for the fear mongering, I've said my peace, but I thought this Forum was about sharing information. I have my opinion about what caused this engine to fail and you have yours. Who's right or wrong? We'll probably never know for sure. The main thing is to get gmyoyo back on the road as quickly and as cheaply as possible. The way I see it, the poor guy spent a lot of time and money putting a CPI and Nut Kit into an engine that has major internal damage and needs to be removed and replaced or repaired. Hopefully, most if not all of these parts can be used on his new engine.

Rick

I agree with Rick about being careful about throwing additives in your engine....defiently buyer beware.

Fear Mongering.....LOL...unfortunatly his engine is toast, what fear mongering?..the damage IS done, he's stating his opinion. I am glad you voiced your OPINION too.

I have used all of the GM supplements, cleaners and additives too, and never had a problem, but it COULD happen - other additives included, not saying this is the case here, but it is possible, how exactly can you just shun and say no? What other creditable information do you have that would say otherwise other than your opinion?

Yes, anything could happen, but it wasn't the cleaner causing this, it was the huge amounts of fuel in the oil I can almost guarantee it.

Cleaners won't cause catastrophic failures like this one, they might uncover a weakness that is already there, but it would cause them in the first place.

All I am saying is that Rick needs to stop pushing the cause to be the cleaner.

Yes, anything could happen, but it wasn't the cleaner causing this, it was the huge amounts of fuel in the oil I can almost guarantee it.

Cleaners won't cause catastrophic failures like this one, they might uncover a weakness that is already there, but it would cause them in the first place.

All I am saying is that Rick needs to stop pushing the cause to be the cleaner.
In at least three different posts on this thread I clearly stated my OPINION that the COMBINATION OF THE SEAFOAM AND THE DILUTED OIL was the possible cause.

I also took the opportunity in two posts to share my OPINION AND EXPERIENCES regarding Crankcase cleaners.

Neither of us knows the condition of this engine, or how well it has been maintained. It could be one of those sludged out monsters that we've all seen pictures of on this Forum, or not.

I am sticking to my OPINION that the cleaner CONTRIBUTED to the cause.

We're just going to have to agree to disagree.

But just for the record, how many minutes or hours or days would an engine have to run with gasoline in the oil to cause such a catastrophic failure? Or maybe a better way to ask the question is how long does someone with a leaking CPI and Nut kit have to repair their engine before they end up like gmyoyo?

Ding Ding Ding. OK RNwood and BLT, go to your corners and wait for the yoyo to tear this engine down and tell us what he sees and if there's huge piles of gunk plugging the oil gallerys or not. Until then it makes no sense to get pi$$ed off that someone disagrees with your GUESS.

Ding Ding Ding. OK RNwood and BLT, go to your corners and wait for the yoyo to tear this engine down and tell us what he sees and if there's huge piles of gunk plugging the oil gallerys or not. Until then it makes no sense to get pi$$ed off that someone disagrees with your GUESS.


LOL LOL LOL