97-626-2.5-Timing Mark on Left Camshaft???

I had to replace the WP and it was time for a TB anyway. 118k.
I have the new belt on and after rotating the crankshaft from TDC to TDC the crankshaft timing mark and right camshaft timing mark align perfectly.

The problem is I cannot see the mark on the left camshaft because the fender is in the way. There are also 2 small marks on the camshaft pully in addition to the timing mark that do line up with 2 pointers on the housing. Haynes and Mitchell do not mention these 2 marks.
These two marks were slightly to the left of center about 1/8" and I was unable to install the upper idler (between the 2 camshafts) until I moved them to center.

This tells me that I either moved the left camshaft slightly when removing the belt or the difference was as a result of stretching in the old belt.

I have tried using a mirror but unless you know your holding the mirror exactly at 45 degress you cannot be certain. I did notice that to be an entire tooth off it would be about 1/4" so I think I have this right but want to be absolutley certain so I do not have to tear this thing down again. It is a real pain to work on these sideways engines!

Also, Haynes states that you need to set the crankshaft one tooth off so that when you install the tensionor it will pull it into place.
Mitchell manual did not mention this and said to install the tensionor
with the upper bolt then pull it down with your hand, install the lower bolt, and then pull the pin holding the rod. The crankshaft did not move.

My question is does anyone know of these 2 marks on the pully and pointers on the left bank and are they intended as a fix for a known problem of not being able to see the other timing mark?

Thanks for you help...

You can email me at Kloyless@swbell.net

Followup...

Have spoken with Mazda Mechanic at dealer (yes believe it) and it is true as I thought that the two dimples on the pully are a fix for a timing mark that cannot be seen unless the engine is out of the car.

Just center them up with the two marks that are on the valve cover.

I also found out that if you install the tensionor with only the upper bolt snugged down and leave out the lower bolt there is no need to set the crankshaft one tooth off and it is far easier to install the belt.

Also, as is typical, there are several errors in Haynes, Chilton, and the Mitchell manuals regarding the proper parts removal order. I wrote my own as I went. I often wonder who the idiots are that write these manuals. It makes me think they change thier oil with a credit card.

I also found out that using a shop towel to hold the belt in place as you wind the belt into position is how the pros do it.

Piece of cake...;>

Now if I can just get the damn thing to get 40 mpg like my 18 year old 323 does and I am set. (in my dreams)