14b install

Well.. the turbo finally died today and lucky me i was on my way home when it kicked the bucket. I went to my friends house today and we started putting the 14b in but not done yet. Still have to put the water lines in and now i have to go to the dealer and get a couple of gaskets for the oil return lines. Removing the stock oil line was a bitch the bolts in the turbo and on the block didn't move for shit. Any how we got that out and now the process of putting the new turbo in starts tomorrow morning. I have a couple of questions here

1 why are there no cracks in the exhaust housing of the t25 and its been on there for almost 10 years now?

2 what is the highest psi i can run on the stock fuel system?

3 what the hell were the mitsubishi people thinking putting that small
ass turbo on the car?

4 I counted the blades in the t25 and there were 12 and also in the 14b and there were 12 so what makes it such a better turbo? From what i can see the the inlet is the same size the exhaust housing is the same size. So where is the major difference between the to

I could have gotten a ticket today because there was so much smoke coming out of my exhaust that it was hard for me to see the cars behind me. Good thing for me i already got my inspection done before that part died completely

I will keep u udated on the progress of the swap

1. You lucked out with the T25
2. Around 17psi if you rewire the fuel pump, but get a walbro 190.
3. Cheaper
4. Its a bigger turbo, the inlet size is bigger, compare it with the t25, the compressor is also a little bit bigger i believe.

I see. Well i got the turbo in today but i don't have the oil line still and i have to go down to the mitsu dealer and get the gaskets for the 14b and for the 2g line that goes onto the oil pan, i also have to get the bolts that go onto the bottom of the turbo.

Well thats all for now but i hope to have it running by this weekend if i can get the money for that damn oil feed line..

Its a 1g line that goes to the pan, not a 2g

You can safely run about 12-14lbs of boost on a 14b on the stock fuel system.

Above about 17psi the 14b just blows hotter air and really doesn't make you any faster.

The stock interheater is also a big limitation, and should be upgraded when you go with a bigger turbo.

Adding a larger fuel pump will most likely overrun your stock pressure regulator, resulting in an abnormally high fuel pressure. You will need an AFC and some tuning knowledge to get around this issue, and its a hack way to approach things anyways.

A set of 550 injectors is about $250 new, and an AFC can be found used for ~150. The 14b wont overrun your stock fuel pump, so you can leave that, and with the bigger injectors and AFC you'll be able to push the turbo to its limit of 17psi.

Feel free to PM me if you have any question about the 4g63 or tuning, I have more experience with it that I really ever wanted to.

Umm with a 190 u wont over run the stock FPR and you can stay on stock injectors as long as u rewire the fuel pump with 10 gauge wire, you can run 17psi

Its a 1g line that goes to the pan, not a 2g

95gsxracer said that i can use the oil line from the t25 i will just have to drill new holes for the for the turbo and use the smaller bolts there I haven't even started looking at the fuel pump yet. Does it show on vfaq how to rewire the fuel pump? Im ordering the oil line today from rre so i guess it will here on thursday at the latest and i have to get the gaskets on thursday also.

With the 1g oil lines, you dont have to drill or anything, they fit perfect.

vfaq has a rewire faq. Make sure to solder everything, no 3m clips, or any crap like that. Solder, solder, solder!

Well the ss line is on the way but it won't be here until tuesday next week. So i'll be carless untill then. I guess.... Well anyway i had one other question I've been searching around and i can't find the cfm's for the 14b some say its 405 and others say its 450 will someone please set the record strait

its probably 450

so it flows 200 cfm's more than the t25

ahh crap, now i cant remember lol, im almost positive i saw 450 somewhere

yeah thats what i read on dsmtalk that it was 450 so im just trying to get the right numbers. Dsmtuners said 405 so..

eh, probably somewhere in between lol

Spending 50 bucks on the 1g return line is a waste IMO. It takes a little time with a file to make the 2g line work, and its a much better fit. The 1g lines come up a few mm short, and the shorter flex section is more prone to cracking. But what do I know ;)

The T25 flows somewhere in the low-mid 20 lb/min range, and the 14b will do 30 lbs. Nearly a 50% improvement. AndI ran 25 psi all day on race gas for years, and 20 psi on pump gas. Don't quote a turbos limitations in terms of pressure, airflow is where the limit is. Same for fuel system capacity (though fuel rail pressure does affect the pumps capacity). And CFM is a shyte way to rate turbos, I'm offended by volume flow units. Mass flow is much more useful. 1 lb/min is 1 lb/min no matter how you slice it. But depending on what constants people use for temp and pressure, volume units can vary significantly (despite the "standards" that are in place.

and for the record, I'm slightly offended by all of these offers to PM with questions. Keep it on the board so everyone can benefit from the discussion. ;)

well thats was all i needed to know about how much better it was. 50% is quite a difference so i will pick up the gaskets tommorrow and start on the process of making the 2g line fit.. thanks

WTF ok the oil line came in today and i put it in but now it leakes a massive amount of oil from top and bottom i don't understand everything is in tight. Why the hell is it leaking oil? I've got the gaskets and all. Also i have a cel now but i hope thats from the leaking oil. Help please

if your talking about the oil feed line, im not sure why you need gaskets. I thought the fitting to the turbo was a banjo bolt and 2 crush washers? As far as the return line there are gaskets and imo the 1g fits alot better. Ive done 5 turbo swaps on 2gs in the last 3 years and never had a problem, all of which im still in contact with. 2 of them were my own. did you use plumbers tape and make sure to tighten them very very good? even 1\16 of a turn off and your pukin oil

i got 1g return gaskets but. I can understand a drip but this is like a damn waterfall I dont know how else to tighten them i don't know if i can drive it to my friends house he has an impact gun. he is down the block do you think it would be safe for me to drive over there or would i loose to much oil?

I think that its the oil feed line itself thats leaking right before it gets to the bolt because its not comming from the bottom.. But im not sure hot to fix it the bolt is tightend down so i don't know what to do. any ideas

ok I got it in no leaks and everything is ok. I went out for a drive and it spools so slow. boost controller set at 9psi put it takes until 5000 to get there i got it up to 15 and holly shit it pulls so hard but it takes forever to get there. Any ideas why it spools so slow...?

How did you fix the leak at the top? Torque the bolt to ~22 lbs, FYI.

Did you check the flapper alignment on the 14b before installing it? How about the WG actuator preload? Iv'e posted extensively about this over the years, let me try a search. Ah yes, the most recent one in a thread of yours. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=448697&highlight=flapper Did you check those things? If so, the next most likely causes are massive boost leaks or leaks before the turbine (like head to manifold or manifold to turbo).

yeah i did but i can hear a loud hissing sound kinda like the turbo spooling but the car is not gaining any power. The leak up top i found that one the parts of the line was not tightend i guess my friend undid it when he was trying to get the line in. What about the cel those werent there before i did the swap.

Sounds like a boost leak... About the CELs, I'm not sure what you are trying to say, I'm not sure it's in English :D What were the exact numbers and descriptions?

Where would i look for a boost leak all of the pipes are tightend and the boost gauge reads 18hg. Also i did use the hammer on the flapper that did a little bit and it seats right over the hole but the crack is right there also. I would say its about an 8th of an inch wide. The spool sound that i heard is because the downpipe wasn't completely bolted on up. The CEL are off now im going to put that jb weld on to seal the crack more to see if thats whats causing the problem. Will that be able to stand up to the heat inside the turbo?

i might just have to break down and save up lots of money to buy a evo 3 but this is only a temp so my car would run but i would like it to still have some power.

1/8th inch is pretty big if that's accurate. All the housings will have cracks, the trick is to get one with the "ormal" cracks. You can get decent 6cm housings for 20 bucks all day long. Only takes 15-20 minutes to change. That may hold you over a little longer than JB weld.

Edit> You mentioned checking and adjusting the flapper arm, which is good, but did you check the WG actuator rod preload also mentioned in the other thread?

yeah i did, but it won't boost past 12 psi now. I'm not sure what else to do about the spool problem. The crack also goes from from the top of the hole to the exhaust housing to the wg and its about that big all the way through. There are also little ones but nothing like that main one.