Finally a new motor

Well I finally got my motor completed and got it dropped into my Mustang last night. It is 331 stroker motor with E7TE Power Heads with 1.90 x 1.60 valves, and a ported, polished and port matched Explorer Intake, I had a Custom Cam made for it and I am running it all through FRPP T5 Transmission with 3:73 gears out back and all being hooked up by a FRPP King Cobra Clutch. I switched to a 1993 Cobra Computer as well . I switched to a Dyno-Max Exhaust system so the car even sounds stock. I have a 150 shot added to it and the Suspension has been completely redone. I have yet to Dyno it but I am hopeing it will break 300 HP N/A and close to 400 on the gas. Should make for a 11 second sleeper on the gas and a high 12 second car N/A. Will try and get to the track next week. I am scheduled to have my car Dynoed next Thursday and a custom Diablo chip programmed for it.

The best part about it is that if you pop the hood all you will see is a basically stock 5.0 motor. I even left the factory air box in it, sans the air silencer of course.

I wanted to build a 12 second sleeper and I think I have, only track time and dyno time will I know for sure. I will keep you all posted.

I also got my first kill with it, while test driving. After I finished it up yesterday, I was heading out for a test drive and to make sure there was not driving problems that needed to be addressed. I pull up to an intersection and a Black Acura Itegra pulls up next me. There were two people in the car the driver and I guess his girlfriend who by the way was incredibly hot...The car was clean and looked to be an early 90's two door Acura. The light changes green and he takes off like a Bat out of hell. I am like WTF, I pull away at normal speed, not wanting to really strees my new motor and it not even tuned properly, so I let him go. He sees me not racing and slows down for me to catch up I guess. I am thinking what is this guy doing trying to show off or his girl... He gets nest to me and we are oing about 35 mph and I look over and he and his girl are looking at me and laughing. I said ok enough is enough... I slam down a gear and get on it. The Mustang bucks and and I get atleast a 2 car jump on him before having to slow down for the next light. I stop and he finally catches up and pulls next to me at the light. Now though he and his girl are not laughing. They are looking straight ahead all serius. He is at the light reving his motor and I am just sitting there, watching the light. It turns green and I pop the clutch and leave him sitting at the light. He tried to catch up, but the closes he got was about 3 car lengths, I slow down knowing I am the victor and he and his girl do not even give me the courtesy of a glance as they throttle by... I do not think he will be showing in front of his girl for some time...

I have to tell you the torque on this new 331 motor is just plan scary, it is night and day different from my stock 302...

sounds awesome, i don't know very much about american cars but those mods sound like lots of hp :evillol:

Better go easy on it for a bit and get er broken in right stay away from trying to kill Integras! Does sound like it will be a fun ride though. Congrats on the "pre-tune" kill and getting it on the road again.

:grinno: Can't touch this :grinno:

That sounds like a bad ass car there man good job :thumbsup:

I have to agree though, don't go blowing the thing trying to show up some punk kid.

Sounds like a plan bro, smoke em!

Actually those short bursts are good for break in.-->Click here (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)<-- Still controversial but I know a few guys on some of the KA-T forums used it and said their compression is perfect.

Sweetness man. 300+whp is going to def get you moving.lol 400whp is gonna be crazy. Hope all goes well.

I can't believe they didn't even give you a thumbs up. I always give everyone who gives me a go a thumbs up. What they do determines if another finger comes out or not.lol

Thank for the kudos everyone, I am looking forward to getting it dynoed and tuned properly. I really want to hit that 300 RWHP mark and see what she can churn up on the laughing gas (aka. NOS). I will post my dyno numbers here when I get them. :evillol:

What pistons and C/R?

She sounds like she'll be one hell of a ride. 90redgt has around 400 bhp N/A or so and that thing flies.

That's freakin awesome! I love the 5.0 mustangs! Remember, it's not the horsepower you should shoot for, it's the torque and power curve that makes others envious :naughty:

Sounds sweet and good kill. Too bad the guy didn't bet his girlfriend on the race :p Dunno what you'll put down whp wise. I'd hope that with the heads and cam that you put down over 300whp, cause that's close to as many cubic inches as the LS1. Better get some drag radials for the track, cause you sure will have to relearn how to launch that beast now.

Sounds like a great build. Should be mean.

I can't wait to have my build done. When it is, I will beat the shit outta this motor to break it in. I will drive REAL light the first 100 miles, then start to really drive it. Of course I won't spin it to 6600 right at 100 miles, but it will be ready to dyno and race within 600-700 miles.

congrats on the new motor, it sounds like a beast. BUt i dont think 300 HP will get you into the 12's, most of the cars that come factory with 300HP are high 13's second cars. But i dont know anything about the weight or how good your suspension and driving skills are. So good luck!

I dont think 300 HP will get you into the 12's, most of the cars that come factory with 300HP are high 13's second cars

Well he has that 3.73 in the rear so that should help. Also, 5.0s are light, like maybe around 2,900, but don't quote me on that. I've just heard that around.

congrats on the new motor, it sounds like a beast. BUt i dont think 300 HP will get you into the 12's, most of the cars that come factory with 300HP are high 13's second cars. But i dont know anything about the weight or how good your suspension and driving skills are. So good luck!

I would hope I could get into the 12 second range with my new setup as my old setup was good for high 13 second pass and the car just had bolt ons. We will have to see after my tune and dyno time and then it is off to the track... My mustang actually weighs in at 3254 with me in the car. I weighed it at one of those truck scales on the interstate. Not sure how accurate they are, but it should be within a couple hundred pounds either way.

Some one asked about my pistons and compression. I am running right at 9 to 1 and the pistons are Kieth Black forged pieces, with forged Mallory rods and a forged crank.

9:1???

Looking to boost?

9:1???

Looking to boost?

I think he said he's going on the bottle.

Congrats on gettin your engine together 1993_GT. Stroker motors are good for torque. I've been thinking about going the stroker route myself, actually had made my mind up to do it (383) but i'm now starting to have second thoughts. I'm not knocking strokers, but 355s hold up a lot better then anything else, lol. Either way, I hope to be joining the new (or atleast freshened) engine club with you and Mr. Lous this Winter.

Am I wrong thinking bottle and high compression are bad together???
9:1 just seems low for something that isn't going to be boosted. If I was going to be running the bottle on my new motor, I would be shooting for 11.5:1.

Am I wrong thinking bottle and high compression are bad together???
9:1 just seems low for something that isn't going to be boosted. If I was going to be running the bottle on my new motor, I would be shooting for 11.5:1.

High compression and nitrous is bad together. To run nitrous, you need low compression, forged internals, a high rpm cam, and you have to retard the timing.

Now 11.5:1 compression is not high compression IMO, so I'd say a 75-100 shot of N02 wouldn't hurt, just as long as you tuned the engine right. But nitrous is as safe as any power adder IF and I mean IF you set the engine up for it. The engine that's in my car was set up for nitrous (150 shot I think) when I bought it, but its not anymore. It had 74 cc chamber heads, flat top pistons (that's probably 9.6:1 compression), a .563/.583 lift flat-tappet cam (4500-8400 rpms) and the timing was slowed way down. Now its still got flat top pistons, but its got atleast 64 cc (maybe 58 cc, I'm not for sure) heads, in the .650 range lift roller cam (engine builder said this cam really made power aroudn 6500-6800 rpms-I should note this is the exact cam that was in my 406, so when I say engine builder, I'm taking about the guy that built that 406, not this 355), and the timing is set on 40.

So I'd say he's picked a good CR for nitrous. He should'nt have to worry about melting the pistons at that compression ratio.

Are you boosting your new engine?

Are you boosting your new engine?
Eventually, I would like to.

I guess the LSx motors must be a different kinda motor all together. There are guys with their built 402/408 motors running 11.5+ compression and 200 shots. Probably requires a very good tune though. Those are some MEAN cars on the bottle.

Nitrous isn't forced induction... it doesn't require a low CR. It does add more stress to the engine, but not like boost does. Nitrous like high compression ratios. All it is is basically cleaner air, replacing regular air with the same volume of air, but it is more O2 so it burns faster. There is no needed compression ratio for N2O, just a more stout bottom end.

The main difference between nitrous and boost is the intake charge temp. Nitrous is very cold when it enters the intake manifold. So naturally, just like cooler air, you can run decent timing. Boost requires retarding timing because ICT can be very hot when running a lot of boost or crappy charge cooling. High ICT alone=very possible pre-ignition/detonation.

There are guys with their built 402/408 motors running 11.5+ compression and 200 shots. Probably requires a very good tune though. Those are some MEAN cars on the bottle.

They are probably running very high octane fuel.

Biggest problem with nitrous is the ability to increase airflow significantly in the higher RPM range. Scenes how most setups utilize a jet, the same amount of nitrous is delivered full time. Naturally, torque is crazy, but WHP is low...

Nitrous isn't forced induction... it doesn't require a low CR. It does add more stress to the engine, but not like boost does. Nitrous like high compression ratios. All it is is basically cleaner air, replacing regular air with the same volume of air, but it is more O2 so it burns faster. There is no needed compression ratio for N2O, just a more stout bottom end.

Try it then. Run about a 150 or 200 shot on a 13.5:1 motor with a big timing advance and I garuntee you that you blow it up before the season's out. You'll take the heads off and the pistons will be melted to the cylinder walls. Realize I'm talking about a race engine here, something that's gettin thrashed on every weekend, not a street car that might see a track once every 2 months.

And 11:1 compression is not high compression. Some 2006 model production cars nearly have 11:1 compression ratios. You can get 11:1 compression with flat top pistons with 58 cc heads. Now when you start running dome pistons with 58 or 64 cc heads, then you got high compression.

9:1???

Looking to boost?

It has crossed my mind

:evillol: :evillol: :evillol:

Yeah, 9:1 pistons are pretty mushy without a forced induction setup.. I run those on my galant at 20psi of boost...

Supercharge that bitch, it'll haul ass big time.

They are probably running very high octane fuel.
Premium pump gas.

I'm guessing they are running below 20* timing advance?

Try it then. Run about a 150 or 200 shot on a 13.5:1 motor with a big timing advance...

Pffft, even I know that you are supposed to retard the timing when you are going to use the bottle. I understand you wouldn't do that in a race-only car, but the fact is this ISN'T a race-only engine.

^Engines are engines. Tuning is tuning. I don't understand how you would tune a race only engine any different than a street engine if you want them both to last. The only difference I could possibly see is power output. But that isn't so much tuning because you tune for the specific power output.

Power and reliability go hand in hand.

The only real way to tune timing correctly is on a dyno where you can change timing and compare torque curves. Advance until torque begins to go back down. Then run the timing curve that gave peak torque. But since I'm a puss, I usually back it off 2* of what gave me peak torque since I daily drive my car and temp can get pretty high. And even if I had this car parked until race day, I would still back timing off some to be safe.

Pffft, even I know that you are supposed to retard the timing when you are going to use the bottle. I understand you wouldn't do that in a race-only car, but the fact is this ISN'T a race-only engine.

Why wouldn't you? Race engines will melt down on nitrous just like a street engine, lol. He said he's got forged internals, now he did'nt say if it was 4340 or 4130 steel, but either way, he's got better then cast-steel, and my point is, that's all you're going to find in a race engine. So what's the difference in retarding the timing in a street engine and not retarding it in a race engine if you're going to spray?

Fu**in sweet man. Congrats, and good luck with your new motor!

Oh, and just out of curiosity, when are you getting your motor Mr. Luos? Srry if you've said it here already, I'm just to lazy to read every post on here. . :evillol:

I already have it.

Just been working on getting every last little bolt and gasket.
Should be running again in 3-4 weeks, I hope.

Try it then. Run about a 150 or 200 shot on a 13.5:1 motor with a big timing advance and I garuntee you that you blow it up before the season's out. You'll take the heads off and the pistons will be melted to the cylinder walls. Realize I'm talking about a race engine here, something that's gettin thrashed on every weekend, not a street car that might see a track once every 2 months.

And 11:1 compression is not high compression. Some 2006 model production cars nearly have 11:1 compression ratios. You can get 11:1 compression with flat top pistons with 58 cc heads. Now when you start running dome pistons with 58 or 64 cc heads, then you got high compression.

I'm running a 388 sbc in an s-10 and I am sprayin 300 on a 13.5:1 ratio and I haven't personally had any problems, (knock on wood.)

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