engine problem
FieroGT86
08-31-2005, 09:15 PM
my engine lite does not turn on. i think is my exhaust manifold, because i found out that it was leaking, and the heat thats coming out of it, is making my electrical flow bad. so this weekend im going to take out my head to get to the exhaust manifold. if anyone has a tips :screwy: :screwy: of taking out the exhaust manifold plz get back at me. thanks
ctesla
08-31-2005, 10:59 PM
repair the old manifolds, rather than buying new ones.
A welder can do all the work on both for about $40-60. total, much less than $180.00 EACH. to minimize flatness problems from welding, give the welder the manifold bolted to FLAT hardwood, or better yet a steel block.
whenback from the welder, touch them up with a belt sander to assist in a nice flat mating surface.
CHEATS AND TRICKS
remove the battery and box, as you will gain access to these, and the ground strap on one of these bolts must be reattached when done.
remove the built-in restrictions in the manifolds
buy new bolts for exhaust, trust me.
trunk side bolts tend to snap, so take it easy when loosening these.
you can loosen the top engine strut (dog bone), to give a little play to the engine.
A/C compressor will have to be unbolted from the engine.
lower bracket with 2 bolts will have to come out; upper bracket with three bolts will have to be removed, but NOT detached or even loosened from the compressor itself.
prior to reinstalling the manifold, inspect it for flatness. It must be flat to seat flush with the engine head.
engine will sound and drive better. removal of the restrictions will lower underhood temperatures as well as give an additional hp increase (not as much as performance headers, but still, what do you want for under $100.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
A welder can do all the work on both for about $40-60. total, much less than $180.00 EACH. to minimize flatness problems from welding, give the welder the manifold bolted to FLAT hardwood, or better yet a steel block.
whenback from the welder, touch them up with a belt sander to assist in a nice flat mating surface.
CHEATS AND TRICKS
remove the battery and box, as you will gain access to these, and the ground strap on one of these bolts must be reattached when done.
remove the built-in restrictions in the manifolds
buy new bolts for exhaust, trust me.
trunk side bolts tend to snap, so take it easy when loosening these.
you can loosen the top engine strut (dog bone), to give a little play to the engine.
A/C compressor will have to be unbolted from the engine.
lower bracket with 2 bolts will have to come out; upper bracket with three bolts will have to be removed, but NOT detached or even loosened from the compressor itself.
prior to reinstalling the manifold, inspect it for flatness. It must be flat to seat flush with the engine head.
engine will sound and drive better. removal of the restrictions will lower underhood temperatures as well as give an additional hp increase (not as much as performance headers, but still, what do you want for under $100.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
TIIRX-7
09-01-2005, 05:36 PM
thanks alot for the tips. ill make sure and try them out this weekend.
ctesla
09-01-2005, 06:10 PM
thanks alot for the tips. ill make sure and try them out this weekend.
forgot to mention, that if you do NOT loosen that upper strut/dog bone, you'll probably need to do it to fight the A/C compressor and its bracket back into place.
(leave the hoses hooked and don't drain/discharge the freon)
yeah, lining that thing up was a pain, until I figured out, by loosening the motor mount, just enough, everything moved into place a heck of alot easier.
and if you are outsourcing your welding, do like I said, and bolt it flat,
otherwise the guy might send back four legs, all at slightly different angles; talk about a exhaust leak nightmare, and a way to smoke a black and decker grinder....
...have my own welding equip now, and got a grinder powered by air now. the right tools make a job almost fun.
good luck.
chris
nrt racing
forgot to mention, that if you do NOT loosen that upper strut/dog bone, you'll probably need to do it to fight the A/C compressor and its bracket back into place.
(leave the hoses hooked and don't drain/discharge the freon)
yeah, lining that thing up was a pain, until I figured out, by loosening the motor mount, just enough, everything moved into place a heck of alot easier.
and if you are outsourcing your welding, do like I said, and bolt it flat,
otherwise the guy might send back four legs, all at slightly different angles; talk about a exhaust leak nightmare, and a way to smoke a black and decker grinder....
...have my own welding equip now, and got a grinder powered by air now. the right tools make a job almost fun.
good luck.
chris
nrt racing
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