Will 160 Degree Thermostat cause problems?

Hey all,

I am thinking of draining the Dexcool from my 2000 GT, in favor of Prestone Extended Life. But, while the system will be empty, for the most part, I'd like to change my thermostat to a 160 degree.

But before doing so, are they any problems associated with it, such as problems starting the car in the winter?

I am on the east coast, long island NY to be exact, and having my car not start while I am trying to go to school at 6 in the morning with a foot of snow on the ground is something I don't need to deal with, lol.

Thanks for the help guys and girls.

Unless you have the computer reprogrammed, a 160 stat will cause you a ton of headaches. Your computer will not recognize that the engine is fully warmed, which will cause you to stay in open-loop mode, and your driveability and mileage will suck.

hmm...i didn't consider that, thanks for the reply...

but whats the best way to have the computer reprogrammed... is there one?

there are companies out there that will reprogram yours for you, to compensate for your mods. I am not a hot rodder, so I'm not sure where or what it costs. I'm sure when Bnaylor reads this thread, he'll be able to help you out.

there are companies out there that will reprogram yours for you, to compensate for your mods. I am not a hot rodder, so I'm not sure where or what it costs. I'm sure when Bnaylor reads this thread, he'll be able to help you out.

I agree with Rich. You don't need a 160 degree thermostat unless you have extensive mods like a supercharger, etc. However, companies like Digital Horsepower (DHP) and Intense will re-program a PCM for a GT/GTP. They change the fan turn points for around 180 degrees.

IMO - The most compelling reason not to run a 160 TS is because you live up North. It will take forever for your heater to warm up.

The Prestone extended life coolant is a great idea.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Ok, thanks guys

I'll just have my mechanic flush and swap out the coolants the next time I brign the car in for something... I want to have the front tires changed before winter, I'll do it next month...then

I agree with the other fellas as far as not needing the 160 as of yet. They say you will not need one until you hit low 13s. On the other hand it wont really effect your car as far as driveability. You will throw a code because it senses that the car is not warming up fast enough. I have the 180 drilled t-stat and it throws a code once in a great while due to the consistant flow of antifreeze. The only thing it wont allow you to do is pass emissions because of the engine light. As far as driving goes it wont effect anything as far as killing your performance, but I would stick with the 180* tstat.

As far as changing your antifreeze goes most people say dont go with the red stuff or global gold. Why? they say that after a while it chunks up and creates a clay like substance. Thats because people dont use distilled water when mixing the stuff. I just purchase the pre mixed stuff.

Read this

The chemical that has to be replaced every 2 years is called nitrite-tolyltriazole. It's mixed with two forms of carboxylic acids - mono and diabasic. This package of chemicals serve as rust inhibiters. The rest of the compound is just plain old ethyl glycol (minus the silicates) to prevent the water from freezing. It's not that exotic.

The only reason you're told not to mix them is that ONE study found that corrosion of aluminum might occur. Last time I checked, our blocks are iron, but it can still cause an issue in aluminum radaitors... and that tends to manifest itself as rust-colored sludge. In an uncontaminated system, DEXCOOL works just fine. 2 years is a reasonable amount of time to go between flushes. I wouldn't go any further though -- the rust inhibitors don't last that long.

There's also been problems with switching over to a silicated coolant after running dexcool for a significant length of time. It's not a clearcut issue as to whether that's a good idea. I know that I've been running DEXCOOL for 10 years now in my camaro, with absolutely zero problems and no sludge.

I'm not convinced that DEXCOOL is any better that the green coolants. The original documentation from Texaco and Shell suggested that it was more stable and improved water pump life, but a Ford study a few years later didn't find much difference between the two. But DEXCOOL certainly isn't any worse if it's properly maintained.

Nice post MikeS3. However, I disagree with the attached article. Prestone Extended Life is based on OAT (Organic Acid Technology) just like Dexcool. Although it dyed green, the two can be mixed with no ill effects and there is no damage to aluminum engine parts, radiators or plastic. A bunch of us have already switched over to it. Of course, I would recommend flushing out the old Dexcool first before switching.

And the author left out the real reason for Dexcool is its environmentally safe and is supposed to last up to 150K miles which falls in line with GM's recommended 100K or more service interval.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Prestone Extended Life is based on OAT (Organic Acid Technology) just like Dexcool.

I dont mean to contradict myself, but I agree with this as well. You can mix.


And the author left out the real reason for Dexcool is its environmentally safe and is supposed to last up to 150K miles which falls in line with GM's recommended 100K or more service interval.


That is another fact. Good eye

Dex-cool and extended life anti-freeze have no silicates, which makes them less abrasive to soft aluminum and plastic cooling system parts. That is why OEM's use it. The sludge that forms over time is caused by the lack of silicates and the fact that the longer change period keeps the contaminates in the system until they collect and form sludge.. just my two cents.