Rear brake bleeding problem

I have a problem beeding the rear drum brakes on my 1998 4.0 2/4 ranger. I opened both rear bleed screws and got no fluid. I checked all connections going to the rear and they were not blocked. When I got to the (they call it) rear brake distributor? (the small block with five wires, attached to the fender) the fluid was going in but not comming out the next end. The auto book said I need a bleeder junction tool? Please help.

Sorry the real name is (rear anti lock brake valve). the fluid is going to the valve but not comming out. could it be the valve not opening or electrical problem?

Well thank for the help every noone. I figured out the problem with a lot of time and effort. There is a 15/16 nut that has to be unsrewed to remove the spring pressure on the Antilock brake plunger(Antilock brake valve). Once released with the truck started/running the anti lock registers and the fluid can flow to the rear brakes when pumped.

I am having a similar problem after replacing a rear wheel cylinder on my 94 w/ rear ABS and 10in. drums. I get only a few drops of fluid when trying to bleed the rear brakes. I am aware of the 15/16 nut on the ABS valve with the rubber cap and the long spring underneath it. Are you saying that you removed the nut and spring then started the vehicle to reset the ABS? Did you pump the pedal with it running and the spring removed? Any details would be appreciated.

Well thank for the help every noone. I figured out the problem with a lot of time and effort. There is a 15/16 nut that has to be unsrewed to remove the spring pressure on the Antilock brake plunger(Antilock brake valve). Once released with the truck started/running the anti lock registers and the fluid can flow to the rear brakes when pumped.

Since I couldnt get the rear bled I started with the two front brakes, which were working good but the rear did not get fluid only a few drops,so i knew that the abs thing was not working with the truck off/not running.

First I bled the master brake cylinder with the screw/nipple on the side, this sent fluid to the ABS. After that, I opened both bleeder screws in the rear. I unscrewed the 15/16 nut, removed the spring and started the vehicle. With the vehicle running, I made someone pump the brake for about ten minutes because my lines were totaly empty. Keeping the master brake full with fluid, eventually the lines were getting fluid. i waited until both lines were flowing then tightened the closest line and started to bleed from the farthest line. If the truck is not running the abs thing does not get power to open for the fluid to flow i guess. My truck has about five wires going to the abs thing.

I am having a similar problem after replacing a rear wheel cylinder on my 94 w/ rear ABS and 10in. drums. I get only a few drops of fluid when trying to bleed the rear brakes. I am aware of the 15/16 nut on the ABS valve with the rubber cap and the long spring underneath it. Are you saying that you removed the nut and spring then started the vehicle to reset the ABS? Did you pump the pedal with it running and the spring removed? Any details would be appreciated.

I tried just turning on the key and regular bleeding again, no luck.
Your method sounds good I'll give it a try tonight and see if it works on mine. I think your right, the ABS unit isn't allowing fluid to the rear brakes. Maybe by taking the spring out and powering on the vehicle it will let the fluid go to the rear. It sounded like you left the rear bleeders open while you pumped the pedal for a long time to get fluid flowing and then finished up with regular bleeding after that.

I tried Una-Ford-Able's technique and I did get somewhat more fluid out than previously, about two ounces total, but not enough to get any preasure on the rear wheel cylinders. I loosened the line on the master cyl. side of the RABS unit and got plenty of fluid there so the RABS unit definately seems to be restricting the flow. I read somewhere that the thing has an internal filter than can also plug up too.
I'm going to try to bleed it more but it is starting to look like I need a new RABS hydraulic unit. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

The easiest way to do this is to release the 5/16 nut to relieve the spring pressure, open both rear beeders and with the engine OFF have someone push the pedal to the floor and hold it while you close the bleeders. After one or two rounds of this you should be getting plenty of fluid to the back.

The only way I could get more than just a few drops of fluid out of the rear was to remove the nut and spring from the ABS unit, start the truck and run the wheels in first gear for a few seconds (it's on jack stands) and then open the bleeder screws while someone was pushing down on the pedal. Using this goofy method I was able to get some fluid out of the bleeders but was never able to get any brake preasure on the rear drums.
I broke down and ordered a rebuilt ABS hydraulic unit from O'Riley's today. They wanted $107 plus $60 core. Hope that's it.

I got the rebuilt ABS Hydraulic unit installed. The old one was definately bad because now we can easily bleed fluid from the rear brakes and the ABS is functioning now. However, I am having a real tough time getting all of the air out or the system because the pedal is still spongy. I hope I don't need to go to the dealer to get them to bleed it using the special tool talked about in the manual. I'm going to drive it some, exercise the ABS, and bleed it some more and see if I can get a firmer pedal before heading to the dealer.