Siezed Engine

So how can I tell if my engine is seized? I have a 4.3 that stalled out about three weeks ago, and wouldn't start back up. It seemed like the starter or solenoid because it would only seldom try to turn over. I put in a new battery with the same results, so I changed the starter and solenoid just yesterday (took a while to get the money), and to my surprise, the starter is still just clicking like it was. I though it may have been the battery as I had tried starting it before replacing the starter without it starting so there could have been a possible battery drain. So I picked up a battery charger and voltimeter. I charged the battery with the (Black and Decker) charger for a while, then being impatient, I disconnected the charger and tested the battery with a result of 14V. That is definately enough to start a vehicle, so I gave it a try. No luck, still just clicking. So is it the engine or is there something else that I can try? I have heard people talk about the ignition switch, but I don't know where it is or how to go about changing it, let alone if it has any part to play in this problem.

Please help, I am supposed to be giving my car to my nephew soon, but I need to be sure I have a vehicle running before that happens, and I have no money to go buy another vehicle.

try putting a socket on the main engine pulley and see if you can turn it. also check your oil. if u have metal shavings then you might have.

Make sure that the battery and starter cables are in good shape, with no corrosion. Corrosion and damaged connections can play tricks on you - the vehicle can get power and everything seems to be okay, but the starter can't get enough amperage to turn over the engine.

I will try the socket trick tonight when I get home, I will also charge the battery more, I guess. I have checked the connections, they are all clean.

Before you try to turn the engine over manually, disconect the positive battery cable!!! We don't want you injuring yourself. :nono:

Before you try to turn the engine over manually, disconect the positive battery cable!!! We don't want you injuring yourself. :nono:

Good tip! We like our buds to have as many body parts after a reapair as they did before!!!

Also, just because you have 14volts doesn't mean you have the right amount of current to turn the engine over.

You have low vaoltage and need to gain a little more patience and properly charge your battery.

Lol, yeah, I figured that might be a problem. As I said, I plan on throwing the charger back on when I get home. I was checking at 14 because I thouht that was enough to start the vehicle, and not to mention if my truck wasn't running, I would be driving extra this morning and staying late at work so my brother could use my car to get to work. Luckily, his interview is tomorrow so I have another night to try some things.

Well, I had a lot to do last night in the house, so all I ended up doing was getting the battery fully charged (according to the battery charger), and read /\14v on the voltimeter (it's as high as this particular model goes). I tried starting, but still only got a click. Didn't get a chance to try turning the pulley, I will try that tonight hopefully.

I would check your starter before you say the engine is seized.

I would check your starter before you say the engine is seized.

Yeah, already done that. New starter, new solenoid, connections are tight, and when I bought it, I made them test it before I took it home. So I am quite sure the starter isn't the problem.

I just can't see the engine being seized.

I just can't see the engine being seized.

Don't get me wrong, I really don't see a reason why it would be. But I can't really think of anything else it could be. I mean, as I first stated at the beginning of the thread, I don't know much about the ignition switch or if that would have anything to do with the problem, or how to test it.

The click means something is not moving or is jammed in the starter.

Again, check your wiring going to and from the starter.

The click means something is not moving or is jammed in the starter.

Again, check your wiring going to and from the starter.


Alright. Tried starting it when I got home from work, tried to turn over but then stopped, and again back to the clicking. Took it all back apart leaving the starter on, and had my brother try starting it while I watched the starter. The gear came out but didn't spin. So I dropped the starter, took some spare wire and hooked up a ground to my car's battery, and then hooked a wire to the solenoid and then touched it to the positive post. As with the truck, the starter gear came down but didn't spin. I am assuming this is the problem, so I am taking the starter back to Autozone after I eat some dinner. I'll check back here before I leave, just in case someone sees this post and tells me it isn't the starter. Thanks everyone.

I have a sneaking suspition that if the motor checks out after a bench test a second time, that you may want to start inspecting your battery cables, clean the posts, etc. I had the same thing happen with another sidepost battery in anotehr GM vehicle and it was a rotten negative battery cable. A quick swap later and she turned over and fired perfectly. I apologize if I am restating something said earlier, but this is what it's starting to look like to me. Try it! You have nothing to loose by at least cleaning everything.

So yeah, it tested out fine. The guy suggested it may be a problem with my positive cable, but that it could also be a problem with the negative as well. Wow, what help huh. So... how should I go about checking to see which one it is, and (this may sound dumb, but I have never replaced battery cables) how would I change the one that is bad?

I got lucky, the negative cable disintegrated when I removed it from the post. It was rotten all up inside the insulating jacket. If it's not as obvious when you inspect your cables? Replace both. Even if you need to change both, it's still cheaper than a starter/battery in the long run. Clean the battery terminals with a solution of baking soda and water using a post brush. Flush clean with distilled water and wipe dry. Treat the ends of your similarly cleaned cables with a bit of dielectric grease. Just a light coating will do - or purchase a small bottle of battery terminal spray. Give the ends a light, even coat of the stuff to stave off corrosion a bit longer than usual. If she still does not fire, then the only way to check is to completely remove the cables and swap for new. *shrug* Either way you're looking at a cleaning and/or replacement, so do it - and take your time. You already did one of the hardest DIY jobs of swapping a starter *twice*, cables will be a walk in the park. :D

That really sounds like low voltage getting to the starter. Try checking the voltage at the starter-end cable connection with a voltmeter. See what happens to the voltage when you try to crank the engine.

You may want to also check your ground points where your battery is connected to the engine and body/chassis for breakage, looseness, corrosion, or excessive rust.

Also, I've seen batteries that were defective that can hold a charge and look okay, but not have enough amperage to turn over an engine.

Yeah, I have seen batteries like that as well. I have tried a new one and the one that was in there and working fine before, both fully charged.

Alright. I changed both the Pos and Neg cables, hooked the starter up yet again, and like it does from time to time, it tries to start but doesn't, and then all following attempts result on the starter gear coming out but not spinning. The starter has been tested, I have seen it work. I also don't beleive it would be the ignition switch as I have tried bypassing the solenoid with the same result (starter gear drops, doesn't spin). I am wondering if the starter relay has gone bad.

My questions are this, is there a starter relay, where is it, and does this make sense?

Remove your plugs, you might have a ruptured CPI injector or nut kit that has hydrolocked your engine.

Remove your plugs, you might have a ruptured CPI injector or nut kit that has hydrolocked your engine.


This may sound dumb, but could you explain what you mean? And maybe what a fix is, if any?

This may sound dumb, but could you explain what you mean? And maybe what a fix is, if any?

You do have a CPI engine right with the VORTEC name plate on the top of the engine?

You do have a CPI engine right with the VORTEC name plate on the top of the engine?


I must be an idiot, as I don't know the what CPI is an acronym for. But yes, I have a 4.3 Vortec in my 94 4wd Blazer. It has all new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.

CPI = Centrol Port Injection

My friend had his engine lock up and it was from the CPI injecot rand nut kit failing and dumping too much fuel into the cylinders 3 & 5 which hydrolocked the engine.

Remove all the plugs and see if it will turn over.

CPI = Centrol Port Injection

My friend had his engine lock up and it was from the CPI injecot rand nut kit failing and dumping too much fuel into the cylinders 3 & 5 which hydrolocked the engine.

Remove all the plugs and see if it will turn over.


Wow, been too long since I worked on this thing, just been busy. Anyhow, I did that last night, and it turned over. The problem is on the driverside rear. When we turn it over with all of the plugs out, the fuel sprays from that port (?). Is it supposed to do that? and if so, why only out of that port and not any of the others? Any ideas?

remove the fuel pump relay and keep on turning it over until no fuel comes out.

What you are seeing is the fuel coming out of that cylinder which was hydro-locking your engine.

Replace your CPI injector ASAP and your nut kit.