Air Intake system
Werm9
08-28-2005, 07:02 PM
I dont know much about cold or warn air intake system and wanted to know what do they do and which one would you recommend for me. I have a 01' 2.4L. I live in MI so from november to march we got lots of snow and not sure if it would effect either intake system
ctesla
08-28-2005, 10:46 PM
cold air intake systems are the ones most commonly talked about.
these draw cold air from the front of a vehicle, or the cowling on the hood, and introduce it to the carb, TBI, intake which assists in the vehicle "breathing" more efficiently, but assists in potentially building more power. naturally, in a snow or wet area, you do not want the "scoop" type intake that is mounted near the lower front bumper or skirting of your vehicle.
warm air induction, is basically any open intake system, that allows the heated air from the engine bay to be introduced into the vehicle's "breathing."
warm air takes away from power building somewhat; however, it in a more complete "burn" of the air/fuel mix, and therefore can increase mileage.
with either choice, it will probably be better than a stock air intake set-up. the choice is yours; do your research, and find out what you want, and what's in the budget.
cold air intake systems, can start at $79-100. USDollars and work upwards.
warm air (or well thought out cold air) intakes can cost as little as $20. or nothing, as you can utilize what is already on the vehicle, or fab something from a completely non-related automotive item (such as a corrugated vent hose for a clothes drying machine); or by merely cutting a hole in the existing air box that is in the vehicle, to allow more air into the intake (sometimes referred to as a deck plate conversion) will give you a little more than stock, but will also insure you have to change your filter more often, with more air=more debri and contaminants as well.
hope this helps,
if more questions, PM or email me,
chris
ctesla@sbcglobal.net
nrt racing
these draw cold air from the front of a vehicle, or the cowling on the hood, and introduce it to the carb, TBI, intake which assists in the vehicle "breathing" more efficiently, but assists in potentially building more power. naturally, in a snow or wet area, you do not want the "scoop" type intake that is mounted near the lower front bumper or skirting of your vehicle.
warm air induction, is basically any open intake system, that allows the heated air from the engine bay to be introduced into the vehicle's "breathing."
warm air takes away from power building somewhat; however, it in a more complete "burn" of the air/fuel mix, and therefore can increase mileage.
with either choice, it will probably be better than a stock air intake set-up. the choice is yours; do your research, and find out what you want, and what's in the budget.
cold air intake systems, can start at $79-100. USDollars and work upwards.
warm air (or well thought out cold air) intakes can cost as little as $20. or nothing, as you can utilize what is already on the vehicle, or fab something from a completely non-related automotive item (such as a corrugated vent hose for a clothes drying machine); or by merely cutting a hole in the existing air box that is in the vehicle, to allow more air into the intake (sometimes referred to as a deck plate conversion) will give you a little more than stock, but will also insure you have to change your filter more often, with more air=more debri and contaminants as well.
hope this helps,
if more questions, PM or email me,
chris
ctesla@sbcglobal.net
nrt racing
Werm9
08-29-2005, 06:36 PM
what can -30F degree temps here in the winter time effect a cold intake system? do they hurt the gas milage slightly?
Werm9
08-29-2005, 06:48 PM
can somone recommend a kit for me. there's a lot out there and wantt o know what works efficiently from your experiences
ctesla
08-29-2005, 07:10 PM
what can -30F degree temps here in the winter time effect a cold intake system? do they hurt the gas milage slightly?
not a whole lot...
that said, you have to realize,
layman's explanation:(@0deg to minus 30)that the colder the air entering the intake, the harsher the vehicle must operate.
mid 80-90s Cadillacs actually put pre-heater spacers on their TBI units to assist in giving the air/fuel mix a "almost" pre-ignition burn to help increase and complete the burning, and helping mpg.
cold air intake "hurts" mileage slightly, yes, but generates potential power, through the ability of more air flow.
warm air intake loses a little amount of that power because of warm air, but makes up for it in better mileage. ALL of these explanations we are
discussing here is minor; unless you are putting your vehicle on a dyno; we are discussing things, that are very difficult to discern from.
either cold or warm air intake will assist in power, mileage, and combustion process overall.
warm air is easier, and usually less expensive; example:
you can purchase from most parts stores a straight or angled open air tube, and a K&N (or equivalant) conical air element to strap on to you tube (or mass air flow sensor), and this would be equal to a "warm air intake," as it is still within the engine bay, taking in some of the heat produced by engine and exhaust. this cost is usually under $100 USD.
a "cold air intake" would involve a "box" and/or "snorkel" device to assist in forcing colder air (from under the vehicle, the side, the cowl area, etc) into the intake, thereby assisting in cooling the air/fuel mix.
a cold air intake can run in the neighborhood of $80-300. depending on manufacturer and application.
if you live in a humid or dry climate, do you notice that when it rains, your car "feels" more responsive and "runs" as if she's "ready to race?"
this is because the cooler and denser the air; the more power that engine can produce.
most NHRA drag guys love racing at night, or early morn: cool, dense air.
most guys with turbos want an intercooler (water cools turbo, turbo makes more power)
you can always "fabricate" or make either device for your vehicle, or purchase one, and then "fab," modify it later to suit your needs.
my advice: start with a system for $80. or less. go from there. ANY opening of your existing (restrictive) system will assist your vehicle.
if you want, take a dig cam pic of your eng. bay, and email me.
also give specific yr/mk/model, and I will call or email you back with part#s and prices of main aftermarket manufacturer's that I have personally ran and tested.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
ctesla@sbcglobal.net
not a whole lot...
that said, you have to realize,
layman's explanation:(@0deg to minus 30)that the colder the air entering the intake, the harsher the vehicle must operate.
mid 80-90s Cadillacs actually put pre-heater spacers on their TBI units to assist in giving the air/fuel mix a "almost" pre-ignition burn to help increase and complete the burning, and helping mpg.
cold air intake "hurts" mileage slightly, yes, but generates potential power, through the ability of more air flow.
warm air intake loses a little amount of that power because of warm air, but makes up for it in better mileage. ALL of these explanations we are
discussing here is minor; unless you are putting your vehicle on a dyno; we are discussing things, that are very difficult to discern from.
either cold or warm air intake will assist in power, mileage, and combustion process overall.
warm air is easier, and usually less expensive; example:
you can purchase from most parts stores a straight or angled open air tube, and a K&N (or equivalant) conical air element to strap on to you tube (or mass air flow sensor), and this would be equal to a "warm air intake," as it is still within the engine bay, taking in some of the heat produced by engine and exhaust. this cost is usually under $100 USD.
a "cold air intake" would involve a "box" and/or "snorkel" device to assist in forcing colder air (from under the vehicle, the side, the cowl area, etc) into the intake, thereby assisting in cooling the air/fuel mix.
a cold air intake can run in the neighborhood of $80-300. depending on manufacturer and application.
if you live in a humid or dry climate, do you notice that when it rains, your car "feels" more responsive and "runs" as if she's "ready to race?"
this is because the cooler and denser the air; the more power that engine can produce.
most NHRA drag guys love racing at night, or early morn: cool, dense air.
most guys with turbos want an intercooler (water cools turbo, turbo makes more power)
you can always "fabricate" or make either device for your vehicle, or purchase one, and then "fab," modify it later to suit your needs.
my advice: start with a system for $80. or less. go from there. ANY opening of your existing (restrictive) system will assist your vehicle.
if you want, take a dig cam pic of your eng. bay, and email me.
also give specific yr/mk/model, and I will call or email you back with part#s and prices of main aftermarket manufacturer's that I have personally ran and tested.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
ctesla@sbcglobal.net
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