Please help, little knowledge trying to fix car.

First Thank you in advance for any one who replies to my thread and attempt to help me.

I have a 97 cavalier.

Here is my the problem, I got out of class today and went to start my car, nothing. wouldn't even crank, but the radio turned on. This was odd because I didn't leave on anything that would drain the battery on accident, and It has showed no symptoms of an electrical problem in the past. So i got a jump from some one in the parking lot, well it started after this, but i left the car running for about 5 minutes it seemed to stall out and the battery was dead again and it wouldnt start.

So it appears its not holding a charge, but even with the car running it didnt charge up again, this leaves me to think its the alternator, its what the guy who helped me jump my car suggested.

My questions are
1) does this sound like the alternator? Im going to take it to a shop with my battery and get them both tested and attempt to fix this problem myself.

2) Is it hard to replace this on your own? Im a computer tech for aliving so I work with my hands on the PC, I have little knowledge of cars but It seems to be similiar and I have to do this on my own because I only have 150.00 in my checkings account.

Basically im trying to get as much knowledge as I can on changing this alternator, the thing that concerns me is the belt is on extremely tight and i don't know how im going to get it in the position to bolt it in tight. Again thanks for any help in fixing this.



**Also I just got the 3 bolts out of the alternator, Its still really stuck in place as if I didnt get out any bolts. Im not sure what to do, my car is in some parking lot and I dont even know how to take this alternator out, I think thiers some thing some where in the car to relieve the tension on the belt, but is that the only thing keeping it in place now? Also do i have to worry about the belt falling off I hear its complicated to get it back on.

yep definately sounds like the altenator. Very simple change. GO here for detailed with photo instructions http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/16/12/0900823d80191612.jsp

thanks for that link, only problem still is I cannot figure out where the bolt is that controls the belt tensioner.

the belt tensioner is the only peice that has a bolt thru the center circle on one side and the little wheel that touches the belt on the other side...and its pretty small..also when you push on it it should slack a little...that would be it.

the belt tensioner is the only peice that has a bolt thru the center circle on one side and the little wheel that touches the belt on the other side...and its pretty small..also when you push on it it should slack a little...that would be it.

Thanks a lot, I just realized I dont spin it and have to push it I had to pry off the blet with a bar to get the alternator out. Would it be smart to get a new belt also with this alternator? It still seems tight but I don't know how important it is to be extremely tight.

actually according to this Haynes manual I do turn it clock wise, I had a tension release tool from auto zone I rented and this didn't work I couldnt get access to this bolt with the tool and a socket wrench has no room to spin either im not sure what do do

I had to replace my altinator and auto tensioner at different points. Just get the end of a open ended wrench onto the bolt and push it down. then slip your belt off. Getting it back on can be a pain in the butt. Get someone to assist you, you need more hands for this job.

I had to replace my altinator and auto tensioner at different points. Just get the end of a open ended wrench onto the bolt and push it down. then slip your belt off. Getting it back on can be a pain in the butt. Get someone to assist you, you need more hands for this job.

Forgot to add something. Since you are in there. replace your belt if it is old.

I dont have any help I just moved out here to this state and don't know any one so I have to figure this out alone. Im going to take a picture under my hood tommorow and post it, I just wen to my car and spent 2 hours trying to find this bolt, and I still dont know if im supposed to spin it, how much, which way, or push it, or what tool to use, because the tool I rented from auto zone is not working, and I even bought a haynes manual and it doesnt show a good picture.

Also I have the alternator off and im buying a new one tommorow I don't know how im ever going to get this belt back on.

I dont have any help I just moved out here to this state and don't know any one so I have to figure this out alone. Im going to take a picture under my hood tommorow and post it, I just wen to my car and spent 2 hours trying to find this bolt, and I still dont know if im supposed to spin it, how much, which way, or push it, or what tool to use, because the tool I rented from auto zone is not working, and I even bought a haynes manual and it doesnt show a good picture.

Also I have the alternator off and im buying a new one tommorow I don't know how im ever going to get this belt back on.

roof in the above post linked the autozone site, and its shows for the 2.3 and 2.4;

"To avoid injuring yourself when rotating the serpentine belt tensioner, use a tight fitting 13mm drive tool that is at least 24 in. (61cm) long. Thie can be done using tool J 37059 or equivalent. "

a long 13mm combo wrench (one end open-ended, the other end, circularly closed (usually as a 12-point))
I thought it was a 15mm, but, if your's is a 13mm, your "tension pulley", the one holding the tension should be almost directly below the alternator. put the open end on the bolt, as if you want to turn it (as if unscrewing it), but it is part of the assembly (as the pulley it runs through is on a spring or sliding device), so it will allow possibly 1-3" of travel and allow the belt to "loosen" to slide off any no-grooved pulley quite easily.
if your engine bay does not have a "belt routing" diagram, trace one, or draw one, prior to loosening the belt, in case, or auto zone can print one out from their computer system.
if it is difficult to get a grip on the wrench, so far down within the side of the frame, take another wrench, and lock it into the rounded end of the first combo wrench, basically forming an extension, I'll take a pic and email, if you'd like.
regardless of whether you decide to replace or leave the original belt in place for now, the easiest way to do it yourself:
bring tape!
electrical, duct, cloth bandage, masking, whatever...
and get under the car, and once the new belt is in place, or the old one still present, TAPE IT to the pulley.
the tape will hold long enough to keep a slight amount of tension on the belt while you move to another area, to route it. let it be your third, fourth, fifth hand...
IF THE OLD BELT does not look as if it has dried cracks on the ribs, I wouldn't worry about it just yet. if it does, you might definitely consider replacing if you feel up to the task; but even if it IS cracked on the ribbed surface, it could STILL last another 30K or more...
...or it could fray and snap in another 5,000miles.
the serpentines are designed for 70+K of life and then some, but every belt is different.

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
[email protected]

roof in the above post linked the autozone site, and its shows for the 2.3 and 2.4;

"To avoid injuring yourself when rotating the serpentine belt tensioner, use a tight fitting 13mm drive tool that is at least 24 in. (61cm) long. Thie can be done using tool J 37059 or equivalent. "

a long 13mm combo wrench (one end open-ended, the other end, circularly closed (usually as a 12-point))
I thought it was a 15mm, but, if your's is a 13mm, your "tension pulley", the one holding the tension should be almost directly below the alternator. put the open end on the bolt, as if you want to turn it (as if unscrewing it), but it is part of the assembly (as the pulley it runs through is on a spring or sliding device), so it will allow possibly 1-3" of travel and allow the belt to "loosen" to slide off any no-grooved pulley quite easily.
if your engine bay does not have a "belt routing" diagram, trace one, or draw one, prior to loosening the belt, in case, or auto zone can print one out from their computer system.
if it is difficult to get a grip on the wrench, so far down within the side of the frame, take another wrench, and lock it into the rounded end of the first combo wrench, basically forming an extension, I'll take a pic and email, if you'd like.
regardless of whether you decide to replace or leave the original belt in place for now, the easiest way to do it yourself:
bring tape!
electrical, duct, cloth bandage, masking, whatever...
and get under the car, and once the new belt is in place, or the old one still present, TAPE IT to the pulley.
the tape will hold long enough to keep a slight amount of tension on the belt while you move to another area, to route it. let it be your third, fourth, fifth hand...
IF THE OLD BELT does not look as if it has dried cracks on the ribs, I wouldn't worry about it just yet. if it does, you might definitely consider replacing if you feel up to the task; but even if it IS cracked on the ribbed surface, it could STILL last another 30K or more...
...or it could fray and snap in another 5,000miles.
the serpentines are designed for 70+K of life and then some, but every belt is different.

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
[email protected]


Thanks that helps a lot, I think I should just keep this belt because I inspected it earlier and it looked in pretty good condition, the only thing is I had to stretch it over the alternator to remove it Im not sure if that worped it at all I don't think so.