NEw gst More Problems

Thanks to whoever followed back on my last problems with my oil gage.

I am going to get an oil change on tuesday at Walmart, and they said they will install my oil filter also for free for 19.99. I am thinking about getting the Fram double Gaurd Filter for 19.99 at kregans. I am also going to use Mobal 1 10w30 oil. I have a 97 gst, basically still stock.

Can anyone suggest a better oil filter and oil, or am I good with what I am going with?

I am also buying a new Air intake system in two weeks with a new BOV.

Would it be cheaper to install everything at once?

I know mitsubishi's carry alot of labor time so I want to hold the expenses back.

My personal opinion.. castrol GTX and fram sucks.
I always change my own oil....saves a few bucks and I know it is done right

I've heard that Fram sucks as well, I dont know why though. I would use Mobil 1 full synthetic, but thats just me. I agree with 96spyderman... I do my own work because its cheaper and you know that stuff gets done right. To make a long story short, my grandma got fucked for a bunch of money (mechanics told her she needed a new starter and battery when really her old battery was ok, just needed to be recharged) so now I either go into the shop with the mechanics and watch or do it myself.

I use Mobil 5w30 5,000 mile oil with a Purolator PureOne oil filter. The oil is around $1.70 a quart, and the filter is around $6.00. You only have to change it every 5,000 miles, so it's cheaper in the long run, and the shit is high quality.

I have to recommend you don't go to walmart and have your oil changed. The people that service cars there are not exactly the most knowledgable about ANY car. They don't even have to be certified or anything to change oil. Scary idea when they pop your hood and start poking around. If you don't want to do it yourself, take the oil and filter to a dealer and ask them to do it. They will probably charge you like $10 or something, and tell them you want the empty bottles of oil and the old oil filter, to make sure they actually used your shit instead of putting in the generic stuff they have barrels of sitting around. :2cents:

I use mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic and a mobil 1 filter. It's pretty expensive (like $30 per change) but in my opinion thats worth it. Oh and i wouldn't take it to walmart or any lube shop I know someone who works at a shop where the impact the oil drain plug on and off!!

yeah seriously why are you taking your car to WAL-MART???? that is a GROCERY store! they know NOTHING about cars lol all the have to know to get hired in the automotive dept. is probably righty tighty, lefty loosey!...just change it yourself man seriously, if you dont know how to change your oil then you dont need to drive a car lol

whats wrong with right tighty lefty loosy :)

I have never tried to change my oil, my Pops always volunteered to do it for me. Walmart was just a convience idea. Im just affriad ill do something wrong, but freak it ill do it myself.

you can't really screw up to badly.. I don't know if it's any difference on turbo cars but basically. Run the car for a bit to get the oil loose and flowing. Back the car up. I put a block of wood on the floor behind each front wheel and then back it up.

Place an oil catch pan under the bolt for the oil pan. Undo the bolt. Let as much come out as you can. Till it drips or so... (if you drop the bolt in the oil no big deal fish it out later)..

Move the oil pan in under the filter.. (it's in the front) Unscrew it and expect alot to run out. Turn it upward when you pull away and dump it in the oil pan later...

Go back and clean up around the oil filter area and the plug area. Replace the oil filter (use a little of the old oil to rub around the gasket lightly this will help it come off easier the next time.. Screw it on. usually it's like 1 turn past when it snugs up. Read the box on the filter...

Replace the oil pan plug. Tighten that down till it snugs. No need to bury it. Go up to the engine top and unscrew the cap that says "OIL" fill it with what your manual recommends for your car. for the spyder gs its' 4.5 quarts. I'm sure it's different for the GST.

Let the oil sit a bit. pull the dip stick and wipe it then dip it back in and bring it out. If you are in the filled level then you are fine. If not add some more oil and check again later.

Check for any leaks below the car if there are small ones you don't have things tightened enough. It happens but make sure you check..

Now for why frams are considered to suck they have been known to break apart during usage. I've never had this happen to me. I use them religiously. But I do change every 3000 miles or before... I've heard horror stories of them breaking up and going through the engines though.. But any filter can do that really..

If I made any mistakes in the writeup let me know

sweat

I am thinking about getting the Fram double Gaurd Filter for 19.99 at kregans.


Holy crap! $19.99 for a Fram oil filter.....that is seriously robbery. I use a K & N oil filter and they are only around $14 at Autozone.

Dont use Mobil oil, the 4G63 doesn't like it very much(most import engines actually), due to the detergents that they use in their oil. Unless you want crazy lifter tick...then go ahead...

I use Valvoline Durablend 10W30


Edit: Also do the work yourself, none of that work is complicated, you'll just be wasting money.

Dont use Mobil oil, the 4G63 doesn't like it very much(most import engines actually), due to the detergents that they use in their oil. Unless you want crazy lifter tick...then go ahead...

I use Valvoline Durablend 10W30


Edit: Also do the work yourself, none of that work is complicated, you'll just be wasting money.

good answer,could not agree more.

Dont use Mobil oil, the 4G63 doesn't like it very much(most import engines actually), due to the detergents that they use in their oil. Unless you want crazy lifter tick...then go ahead...
Wow, thanks for the heads up.

Hmmm..... I've used mobil 1 for over a year in my talon and for three months in my eclipse and neither have lifter tick. Also my brother has used it in his eclipse for over two years. Do you have any evidence of the oil causeing lifter tick?

Hmmm..... I've used mobil 1 for over a year in my talon and for three months in my eclipse and neither have lifter tick. Also my brother has used it in his eclipse for over two years. Do you have any evidence of the oil causeing lifter tick?


Yeah, two master techs that happen to be friends of mine(one cousin) and my own personal experience.

I am thinking about getting the Fram double Gaurd Filter for 19.99 at kregans.

Here is a link to a website that did a study on the many different types of oil filters available on the market including the Fram Double Guard. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

And in repsonse to your question of what are the best filters out there here is a page that took the results from those tests and compared them.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

About the Fram Double Guard filter it says:

Fram Double Guard

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

no he doesn't

As i said no evidence, the fact that you have expirience means nothing why would detergent cause lifter tick? I'm not trying to be an ass but just assuming something like that is rediculous. Perhaps the lifters were dirty and the detergent cleaned them causing the tick to be more aduible, thats the only solution i can think of...

yah... just becuase you had a loud lifter tick after using mobil oil, doesn't mean its a proven study (>_<) im not saying the oil wasn't the cause of it, but if there is conclusive evidence stating that the specific oil in question is the reason for lifter ticks; then im a idiot, but since that is almost impossible to appear (mobil would put warning labels on it or not for our type of vehicles) im sure you were just a special case =O Yeah, "two master techs that happen to be friends of mine(one cousin) and my own personal experience". <---- isn't really evidence, as you said, just personal experience