no start-94 lhs-3.5 liter
charlie1200
08-28-2005, 06:09 AM
at 1st the car would run for a few secs and quit.now it wont start at all.ive replaced the fuel filter.camshaft and crankshaft sensers.fuel pump is pushing fuel out the filter and ive got pressure at the fuel rail.im not getting spark when i put a spark plug into a spark plug boot and cranking it over.at 1st when it was starting up ,i was getting power to the coil as the manual says,test light in b+ plug in connector going into coil pack,turn key on and light is supposed to flash when car energises the system[ads relay]but now its not evendoing that.i replacede the square relay with the wiper relay and that didnt work but i heard that if you hear the fuel pump come on its working.ive got full batt. power,had the charger on it and it was charging at 15 volt with batt. voltage at 12 + volts.im about ready to replace the coil pack but im kinda leary because i dont think im geting power to it.any ideas out there?
konstantink
09-24-2005, 12:31 PM
Hi Charlie:
When you went through the no start routine of testing at the input at the ignition coil B+ did the test light go on once ? This as you know this activated the ads relay for a second until the cam signal was gotten from the cam sensor to continue the computer to activate the the ads relay . If the cam signal was not gotten or not gotten in time the computer turns off the ads relay . The problem come in two parts 1. wiring from the cam sensor to the main computer or crank sensor to the same . 2. or as I have learned the timimg belt had slipped a few teeth at the crank gear not because the belt was worn but because a small bolt had broken inside the belt compartment and fell directly into the crank gear shifting the the gear a few teeth over . I noted in my case the timing belt was in good condition except for a small 1/4" X 1" piece that had been torn off . If the belt had not slipped the motor would have continued to run as if nothing had not happened.
Good luck. Ken
When you went through the no start routine of testing at the input at the ignition coil B+ did the test light go on once ? This as you know this activated the ads relay for a second until the cam signal was gotten from the cam sensor to continue the computer to activate the the ads relay . If the cam signal was not gotten or not gotten in time the computer turns off the ads relay . The problem come in two parts 1. wiring from the cam sensor to the main computer or crank sensor to the same . 2. or as I have learned the timimg belt had slipped a few teeth at the crank gear not because the belt was worn but because a small bolt had broken inside the belt compartment and fell directly into the crank gear shifting the the gear a few teeth over . I noted in my case the timing belt was in good condition except for a small 1/4" X 1" piece that had been torn off . If the belt had not slipped the motor would have continued to run as if nothing had not happened.
Good luck. Ken
charlie1200
09-25-2005, 10:30 AM
for the most part the test light does not come on.yesterday i was working on it and the light would come on so often usually in spurts,itll flash after two or three ons of the key and then go back to no light!finally got myself a good meter and i was testing the coil for resistance and ohms.when i put the meter across the poles of the coil its fine according to the manual but when i test from the b+ to the 3 other pins it reads over what the manual says .it reads .8 ohms at all 3 terminals where the manual says it should read .45 to .65 i do believe.would that be considered a bad coilpack?and about how much do they cost?but like i said before ,i think i have to fix the problem of getting power to the coil 1st.as to what you said.ive just replaced the timing belt,water pump,etc,etc,a lot of new parts and i dont think thats it.but it could be wiring to the coilpack itself.do you know where the b+ wire comes from?and where it runs?im thinking maybe running 12 volts somehow to the coilpack it self and see what happens,lol.thanks for the reply
dolittle
01-02-2006, 01:39 PM
for the most part the test light does not come on.yesterday i was working on it and the light would come on so often usually in spurts,itll flash after two or three ons of the key and then go back to no light!finally got myself a good meter and i was testing the coil for resistance and ohms.when i put the meter across the poles of the coil its fine according to the manual but when i test from the b+ to the 3 other pins it reads over what the manual says .it reads .8 ohms at all 3 terminals where the manual says it should read .45 to .65 i do believe.would that be considered a bad coilpack?and about how much do they cost?but like i said before ,i think i have to fix the problem of getting power to the coil 1st.as to what you said.ive just replaced the timing belt,water pump,etc,etc,a lot of new parts and i dont think thats it.but it could be wiring to the coilpack itself.do you know where the b+ wire comes from?and where it runs?im thinking maybe running 12 volts somehow to the coilpack it self and see what happens,lol.thanks for the reply charlie did you find the problem? I'm having the same issues. I think it may be the PCM but would like to know what you found.
Thanks
Thanks
charlie1200
01-05-2006, 06:28 PM
charlie did you find the problem? I'm having the same issues. I think it may be the PCM but would like to know what you found.
Thanks
yea I think so.It either the fuel filter or a bad cell in the battery.
Thanks
yea I think so.It either the fuel filter or a bad cell in the battery.
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