97 GP replacing front control arm bushing

1) Once the cotter pin & nut are removed from the lower ball joint, does the ball joint have to be separated with a hammer & separator tool? If so, it looks like the rubber grommet is going to get destroyed.

2) Once the control arm is out, how do you get the old bushing out, & new one in? Looks like it would have to be hammered/pounded something fierce.

Thanks!

Sometimes, you can separate the ball joint without using a "pickle fork" by doing the following:

after loosening the castle nut, bring it up until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the threaded stud on the ball joint. Put a floor jack under the control arm about a quarter inch from touching, then hit the castle nut with a sledge hammer. Normally, the sharp force of the hammer combined with the spring will pop the ball joint out, and the jack will keep the control arm from falling too far and causing all kinds of mayhem. Then remove the castle nut and slowly lower the jack until the ball joint stud clears the spindle.

2) Once the control arm is out, how do you get the old bushing out, & new one in? Looks like it would have to be hammered/pounded something fierce. Thanks!

Hey, what's up Rich. I see you got this gentleman covered on one part.

On removal of the bushing it is highly recommended to take it to a general automotive mechanic or alignment/suspension shop and have them press the old one out and new one in. You need a machine press. Plus you do not want to damage the new bushing or any part of the control arm. Good luck!


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Thanks B, I forgot to answer the second part, too many brewskies, ;)