Brake Job ...
chuck16
08-25-2005, 12:55 AM
Hey Guys,
I've read all the posts about brakes but, I just had 2 questions. I'm going to be doing all 4 rotors and pads; pretty sure all the calipers are in good working order and the e-brake is fine.
My 2 questions are:
1) Is there anything I should keep an eye out for when removing the rear brakes and rotors. I figured I'd be lazy and just remove the caliper mount from the axle instead of removing the caliper and then the caliper mount. Once the caliper is out I should just be able to C-Clamp the caliper piston back in right? Also, with the caliper out of the way should the disc/drum just slide off? or is there some trick with the e-brake in there?
2) With the front brakes anybody see any problems with just undoing the caliper mount again instead of Torx'ing the caliper's off and then removing the mount. Again using the C-clamp to push the caliper pistons back in.
I've read the Haynes manual over and over and over again and I can't forsee any problems with my method however, they mention that you should take the caliper off and then the mount but, I just thought I'd bounce the thought off you guys.
Thanks in advance
Evan
I've read all the posts about brakes but, I just had 2 questions. I'm going to be doing all 4 rotors and pads; pretty sure all the calipers are in good working order and the e-brake is fine.
My 2 questions are:
1) Is there anything I should keep an eye out for when removing the rear brakes and rotors. I figured I'd be lazy and just remove the caliper mount from the axle instead of removing the caliper and then the caliper mount. Once the caliper is out I should just be able to C-Clamp the caliper piston back in right? Also, with the caliper out of the way should the disc/drum just slide off? or is there some trick with the e-brake in there?
2) With the front brakes anybody see any problems with just undoing the caliper mount again instead of Torx'ing the caliper's off and then removing the mount. Again using the C-clamp to push the caliper pistons back in.
I've read the Haynes manual over and over and over again and I can't forsee any problems with my method however, they mention that you should take the caliper off and then the mount but, I just thought I'd bounce the thought off you guys.
Thanks in advance
Evan
Ape0r
08-25-2005, 10:44 AM
1. You may have to remove the caliper from its mount to change out the clips, not sure, I've always removed the caliper mount to work on the rotor, reinstalled it, and then removed one caliper bolt and flipped it up to swap pads and clips. You can use a c-clamp or very large pliers to press the pistons back in. The rotor will slide off as long as your parking brake is not engaged =).
While you've got it off, you should go ahead and change the parking brake shoes. Runs about $70USD for the set and clips. At first it will seem that you can't get the shoes around the hub, but if you start one end and kind of 'bend' the shoe around the hub, it will pop right off. Careful of your fingers =).
2. As long as you can change pads and clips without removing the caliper from its mount, that method should work fine. Never done front brakes on a NBS truck, only rear.
While you've got it off, you should go ahead and change the parking brake shoes. Runs about $70USD for the set and clips. At first it will seem that you can't get the shoes around the hub, but if you start one end and kind of 'bend' the shoe around the hub, it will pop right off. Careful of your fingers =).
2. As long as you can change pads and clips without removing the caliper from its mount, that method should work fine. Never done front brakes on a NBS truck, only rear.
mjgjr72
08-25-2005, 06:39 PM
you should take the caliper off the bracket so you can remove the sliders and lube them up, they tend to try out and stick.
the rotors may need a little rap on hub to break loose but should slide right off, but check the studs where they come through rotor hub and look for thin metal washers on two of them, they come on them stock to hold rotor during assembly at the plant,
the rotors may need a little rap on hub to break loose but should slide right off, but check the studs where they come through rotor hub and look for thin metal washers on two of them, they come on them stock to hold rotor during assembly at the plant,
chuck16
08-26-2005, 01:02 AM
Thanks guys, I'm going to start the attack tomorrow night. Anyone want pics? I was thinking of doing a step by step with the camera...
JCL82
08-26-2005, 05:48 AM
you should take the caliper off the bracket so you can remove the sliders and lube them up, they tend to try out and stick.
the rotors may need a little rap on hub to break loose but should slide right off, but check the studs where they come through rotor hub and look for thin metal washers on two of them, they come on them stock to hold rotor during assembly at the plant,
Sounds cool to me.
the rotors may need a little rap on hub to break loose but should slide right off, but check the studs where they come through rotor hub and look for thin metal washers on two of them, they come on them stock to hold rotor during assembly at the plant,
Sounds cool to me.
chuck16
08-28-2005, 10:11 AM
Update:
Well, the new shoes, rotors and yes Ebrake is in. After breaking 2 Torx bits and mangling my left middle finger everything is in. My dad came over and gave me a hand with the rears but, the fronts were the tuffest with those stupid T55 Torx Bits. It wasn't until I went to get my Free Socket replacements at Lordco (http://www.lordco.com) that they had mentioned taking the Torx Bit and putting it on the bolt then hitting the Socket hard with a hammer 2 or 3 times that I realized how much that helped. It was a lot of work to get those Torx out but, next time will be mucho easier as everything went back on with Never Seize.
So Much for the theory of not having to remove the Torx bits. You have to remove the Caliper from the mount to change the shoes as stated earlier, oh well it's done now.
The E-Brake was worn out on the Driver side but, the passenger side wasn't too bad. I wasn't planning on replacing the E-Brake but, figured since I was in this far I may as well do it. Besides one side was worn out too. What a mickey mouse brake shoe to get on and off the truck but, somewhat easier than regular drum brakes.
Sorry I didn't take pics my fingers were too dirty to grab the digital and take pics in between swearing at the bolts... :naughty:
Thanks for all the heads up fellas...
Well, the new shoes, rotors and yes Ebrake is in. After breaking 2 Torx bits and mangling my left middle finger everything is in. My dad came over and gave me a hand with the rears but, the fronts were the tuffest with those stupid T55 Torx Bits. It wasn't until I went to get my Free Socket replacements at Lordco (http://www.lordco.com) that they had mentioned taking the Torx Bit and putting it on the bolt then hitting the Socket hard with a hammer 2 or 3 times that I realized how much that helped. It was a lot of work to get those Torx out but, next time will be mucho easier as everything went back on with Never Seize.
So Much for the theory of not having to remove the Torx bits. You have to remove the Caliper from the mount to change the shoes as stated earlier, oh well it's done now.
The E-Brake was worn out on the Driver side but, the passenger side wasn't too bad. I wasn't planning on replacing the E-Brake but, figured since I was in this far I may as well do it. Besides one side was worn out too. What a mickey mouse brake shoe to get on and off the truck but, somewhat easier than regular drum brakes.
Sorry I didn't take pics my fingers were too dirty to grab the digital and take pics in between swearing at the bolts... :naughty:
Thanks for all the heads up fellas...
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