1991 Toyota Camry that keeps going and going
cycosurfer
08-25-2005, 12:18 AM
Fortunately this time on this post there isn't anything wrong with my car. I'm just wanting to know how other people are faring with their Camry's. My car has 189,998 miles on it and it is running like a charm; all the things that I believe need to be replaced have been. I'm not going to be able to invest in another car for a while since I'm in college. Therefore, I'm going to need this car to last close to forever until I get a good job with some formidable income. I was wondering how long other people here have had their Camry's last. And, if there are any tips you could suggest for me to keep this thing running like the energizer bunny..
*Constant oil changes (Every 3k or 3.5k mi)
*Timing belt replaced at 180,000
*Transmission filter changed at 160,000
*New Platinum Spark Plugs at 165,000
*Air filter changed at 175,000 miles and still very clean
Compression ratios on all the cylinders were great...
Still gets me 26-30 mpg...
Do you guys think there's anything else I can do to make my engine happier?
2.0L I4 EFI
Camry Deluxe
*Constant oil changes (Every 3k or 3.5k mi)
*Timing belt replaced at 180,000
*Transmission filter changed at 160,000
*New Platinum Spark Plugs at 165,000
*Air filter changed at 175,000 miles and still very clean
Compression ratios on all the cylinders were great...
Still gets me 26-30 mpg...
Do you guys think there's anything else I can do to make my engine happier?
2.0L I4 EFI
Camry Deluxe
Toysrme
08-25-2005, 06:44 PM
*Add an auxiliary transmission cooler. Pick a core up at a junkyard for $5-15usd, two 5/16" brass T fittings, 8 small hose clamps, zip ties, 5/16" oil hose.
*Flush the transmission fluid every other year, or drain the pan every other oil change.
*Change the oil every 5,000miles - 6 months for dino oil, 7500-10,000 miles - 10 months for good synthetics.
*Clean oil pan & screen, transmission pan & screen & change transmission filter every 5 years.
*Rotate tires every oil change, twice if you're using a long life synthetic.
*Clean the inside of the upper portion of the intake manifold, throttle plate, ISC/IAC valve(idle valve), and EGR valve yearly.
*Change differential fluid every four years.
*Flush the brake system with fresh dot3, dot4, or dot4+/Dot5.1 every three years.
*Change the fluid in the power steering reservoir every year, or flush the power steering system every other year.
*Flush the cooling system every other year, or drain yearly.
*Change radiator cap<s> & thermostat every 5 years.
*Change PCV valve every 5 years.
*Change o2 sensor<s> before 100,000 miles accumulates.
*Change cat convertor before 100,000 miles accumulates.
*Change distributor cap & rotor every other spark plug change (120,000 miles).
*Check belts yearly, change belts when needed, change all belts (including timing belt) every 90,000 miles. Replace the water pump every other timing belt change.
Otherwise, just keep track of things. Like CV boots, things you need to grease, seals that can leak etc.
*Use only NGK, or Denso spark plugs. Might as well be the generic $1 versions, as they last over the specified change time.
*If spark plug wires ever become damaged, only replace with OEM wires, or high quality wires.
*Flush the transmission fluid every other year, or drain the pan every other oil change.
*Change the oil every 5,000miles - 6 months for dino oil, 7500-10,000 miles - 10 months for good synthetics.
*Clean oil pan & screen, transmission pan & screen & change transmission filter every 5 years.
*Rotate tires every oil change, twice if you're using a long life synthetic.
*Clean the inside of the upper portion of the intake manifold, throttle plate, ISC/IAC valve(idle valve), and EGR valve yearly.
*Change differential fluid every four years.
*Flush the brake system with fresh dot3, dot4, or dot4+/Dot5.1 every three years.
*Change the fluid in the power steering reservoir every year, or flush the power steering system every other year.
*Flush the cooling system every other year, or drain yearly.
*Change radiator cap<s> & thermostat every 5 years.
*Change PCV valve every 5 years.
*Change o2 sensor<s> before 100,000 miles accumulates.
*Change cat convertor before 100,000 miles accumulates.
*Change distributor cap & rotor every other spark plug change (120,000 miles).
*Check belts yearly, change belts when needed, change all belts (including timing belt) every 90,000 miles. Replace the water pump every other timing belt change.
Otherwise, just keep track of things. Like CV boots, things you need to grease, seals that can leak etc.
*Use only NGK, or Denso spark plugs. Might as well be the generic $1 versions, as they last over the specified change time.
*If spark plug wires ever become damaged, only replace with OEM wires, or high quality wires.
Brian R.
08-25-2005, 08:08 PM
Also,
lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time.
Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota.
Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element.
Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once.
Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones).
Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors.
Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise.
To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it.
lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time.
Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota.
Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element.
Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once.
Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones).
Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors.
Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise.
To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it.
BlindMelon
08-27-2005, 02:45 AM
My 1991 Camry is actually fine, but I don't have the money to keep up after it. I need new spark plugs... need to get the tires rotated and get one wheel replaced with one that I got because the old one wobbles... I think it could use a new alternator and battery and after that... oil change, new struts, balance wheels, alignment. But most of that will come with getting the tires rotated. By the way it has 140,000 miles on it. I honestly love my Camry, and if I could have one car in the world, it'd be a Ferrari, but since I'm so poor, Camry.
Bossman
08-28-2005, 03:24 AM
I used to have an 87 Camry 4-cyl, auto trans and I kept it for 15 years. It had about 186,000 miles on it if memory serves and I still miss it to this day. I did all the things you are doing, especially changing the oil and filter religiously every 3,000 miles, and doing everything else on schedule and this kept it on the road for all those years. Preventive maintenance is always the key to happiness. You're doing the right things so I hope you enjoy many more miles of happy motoring. :smokin:
quincyguy
08-28-2005, 04:00 PM
Hi, Brian -
Where are the "body lube points".
I haven't seen grease fittings under mine, although perhaps they're coated with crud..
lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time.
Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota.
Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element.
Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once.
Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones).
Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors.
Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise.
To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it.[/QUOTE]
Where are the "body lube points".
I haven't seen grease fittings under mine, although perhaps they're coated with crud..
lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time.
Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota.
Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element.
Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once.
Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones).
Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors.
Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise.
To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it.[/QUOTE]
Brian R.
08-28-2005, 05:23 PM
Chassis lube points (zerk fittings, etc) are where Toyota designates them. You will have to look them up. My intent was to call your attention to the need for the body lube points to be greased or whatever. They include door hinges, locks, trunk lock, etc.
cycosurfer
11-04-2005, 10:11 AM
My car now has a tranny cooler installed. I'll continuously post how long the car is lasting... so far, 196,750 miles and counting....
by the way, I'm only curious, but what's the longest lasting (total mileage) camry that you have known of? or own? let me know....
by the way, I'm only curious, but what's the longest lasting (total mileage) camry that you have known of? or own? let me know....
richardg40
12-20-2005, 10:45 AM
My car now has a tranny cooler installed. I'll continuously post how long the car is lasting... so far, 196,750 miles and counting....
by the way, I'm only curious, but what's the longest lasting (total mileage) camry that you have known of? or own? let me know....
I have read in the local new paper of one familly that has reached 600,000 thousand miles. the story was featured in the paper and they still drive the camry ( i beleive a 92) they love it .
by the way, I'm only curious, but what's the longest lasting (total mileage) camry that you have known of? or own? let me know....
I have read in the local new paper of one familly that has reached 600,000 thousand miles. the story was featured in the paper and they still drive the camry ( i beleive a 92) they love it .
90EX
12-21-2005, 10:01 AM
My 91 Camry only has 168,000 miles on it. I only drive it to the light rail station, so I don't put many miles on it now. For longer trips I use our 2002 Camry. I haven't had any problems with either car. I used to have an 85 too.
Toyrolla
12-25-2005, 01:04 PM
My 88 I4 daily driver odometer reads 203870, and it's on its second tranny.
I'm going to install a tranny cooler before the spring.
The general rule of thumb is:
"Take care of the car and it will take care of you."
:smile:
I'm going to install a tranny cooler before the spring.
The general rule of thumb is:
"Take care of the car and it will take care of you."
:smile:
Techventure
12-26-2005, 01:14 AM
My 88 I4 daily driver odometer reads 203870, and it's on its second tranny.
I'm going to install a tranny cooler before the spring.
The general rule of thumb is:
"Take care of the car and it will take care of you."
:smile:
I'm just replacing on my 1992 V6 camry, the timing belt, drive belts, dist. cap & rotor, new NGK plugs, new wires, new sealing on valve covers and oil pan and new water pump. I'm cleaning and coating areas for protection underneath and one area that hasn't been mentioned is the hydraulic and fuel lines running down the engine compartment firewall and along the bottom of the car on the drivers side. These lines have a protective cover with slots in it for drainage....put there to protect the lines from damage from stones, etc. In my part of the country...Ontario, Canada our roads are sanded and salted and this brine mixture with the sand grit becomes trapped between the protective cover and the bottom of the car and corrosion starts eating the lines away. This is my 2nd. camry...had a great 85. I oil inside the panels and underneath but this doesn't do much for these lines. I'm removing the cover and cleaning and coating the lines and cutting a 2-1/2 - 3 " piece of pvc lengthways.Than take a wax seal they use on toilet sealing installations, soften and coat the lines. You can paint them first with a tremclad and then coat. If you have space left fill the pvc with a grease....it sheds water and then cover the lines with the 1/2 pipe by attaching galvanized straps with galv. self tapping screws or use the old screws. For extra protection put on a coat of tremclad on the straps. If you want you can drill bottom holes every ft. or so to let out any H2O that may get in ...it will fall to the bottom. Pvc is one cover. You could have an aluminum piece rolled with flanges made by a window company. Probably many other possibilities.
These are critical lines and you can't see them unless you remove the cover. You may get an unwanted surprise. Can be checked each year or more often.
Some food for thought!
I'm going to install a tranny cooler before the spring.
The general rule of thumb is:
"Take care of the car and it will take care of you."
:smile:
I'm just replacing on my 1992 V6 camry, the timing belt, drive belts, dist. cap & rotor, new NGK plugs, new wires, new sealing on valve covers and oil pan and new water pump. I'm cleaning and coating areas for protection underneath and one area that hasn't been mentioned is the hydraulic and fuel lines running down the engine compartment firewall and along the bottom of the car on the drivers side. These lines have a protective cover with slots in it for drainage....put there to protect the lines from damage from stones, etc. In my part of the country...Ontario, Canada our roads are sanded and salted and this brine mixture with the sand grit becomes trapped between the protective cover and the bottom of the car and corrosion starts eating the lines away. This is my 2nd. camry...had a great 85. I oil inside the panels and underneath but this doesn't do much for these lines. I'm removing the cover and cleaning and coating the lines and cutting a 2-1/2 - 3 " piece of pvc lengthways.Than take a wax seal they use on toilet sealing installations, soften and coat the lines. You can paint them first with a tremclad and then coat. If you have space left fill the pvc with a grease....it sheds water and then cover the lines with the 1/2 pipe by attaching galvanized straps with galv. self tapping screws or use the old screws. For extra protection put on a coat of tremclad on the straps. If you want you can drill bottom holes every ft. or so to let out any H2O that may get in ...it will fall to the bottom. Pvc is one cover. You could have an aluminum piece rolled with flanges made by a window company. Probably many other possibilities.
These are critical lines and you can't see them unless you remove the cover. You may get an unwanted surprise. Can be checked each year or more often.
Some food for thought!
Techventure
12-28-2005, 01:30 AM
hi, im new to the site but i thought this was an interesting post, so i thought i'd respond too. i've also got a 91 camry deluxe v6, and i love it entirely. this really is a fantastic car. my family is the original owner of the car and we've babied it as much as possible. Currently our car is only at 93,000 miles and going strong. i keep up with the regular oil changes and tune ups, rotate the tires and check the fluids, but i dont know enough about cars to do anything else to it. i just thought i'd chyme in.
I posted this as it's own thread as well ...I felt it important enough to make owners aware if they live in the colder climates where sanding & salting occurs on the highways. If you live in this type of climate and these conditions ocurr i would strongly recommend taking a look at your covered lines.
I posted this as it's own thread as well ...I felt it important enough to make owners aware if they live in the colder climates where sanding & salting occurs on the highways. If you live in this type of climate and these conditions ocurr i would strongly recommend taking a look at your covered lines.
cycosurfer
01-06-2006, 03:03 PM
204,000 miles and still going strong...
Chapol
01-07-2006, 01:36 PM
Got just over 205,500 miles on my 1990 V-6, but I don't think that is so terrific. It runs very well and is quiet, but I don't do anything special except keep up with any leaks and change the oil at 3k to 4k miles. I've seen a number of good tips in this thread. I recommend keeping the car away from shops unless absolutely necessary, and keeping parts OEM where practical.
odie1
01-09-2006, 03:51 AM
Well,
I guess I have the most so far..... 1994 camry 4 cyl...218,500. It was my wifes and I got it as a hand me down... drove it 21K miles last year.
Odie1
I guess I have the most so far..... 1994 camry 4 cyl...218,500. It was my wifes and I got it as a hand me down... drove it 21K miles last year.
Odie1
91indaworks
01-09-2006, 12:45 PM
220,000 and pushing 221 real soon.
All stock. No tranny cooler, original radiator(although it needs a new one). Has never had the timing belt done either.(although that is getting done asap)
Goes strong and gets still gets over 30 on the highway. First Camry I have ever had. Love it, plan on buying anew one when this one dies. If it dies.
THis spring will be the body work. It is a 91 after all and the wheel wells look like they are 15 years old.
Would like to put some different wheels on her but haven't found anywhere that ells me what size I can go to.
All stock. No tranny cooler, original radiator(although it needs a new one). Has never had the timing belt done either.(although that is getting done asap)
Goes strong and gets still gets over 30 on the highway. First Camry I have ever had. Love it, plan on buying anew one when this one dies. If it dies.
THis spring will be the body work. It is a 91 after all and the wheel wells look like they are 15 years old.
Would like to put some different wheels on her but haven't found anywhere that ells me what size I can go to.
RIP
01-17-2006, 07:36 PM
I've got an 87 wagon with 270,000+ miles on it. Unfortunately, three oil changes ago, I noticed metal chips in the oil. After flushing the engine I'm still noticing a few chips but not as much. So....now I keep it under 65MPH and every 2K miles I drain the oil to have a look see. I bought it in 92 with 72K on it. No breakdowns. No major problems. Biggest was getting the A/C fixed for $400. I changed the oil every 4-5000 miles, changed tran fluid every year. Flushed the cooling system every other year. Changed all belts and hoses every 4 years. Flushed the break fluid every 5 years. Changed the plugs and air filter every other year for the SMOG check. Beyong the other normal stuff -not much. IM GONA HATE TO GET RID OF THIS CAR!
imc188222
01-20-2006, 07:05 PM
1985 180,000 miles
been a great car, all the normal maintnence. redid the head at 150k, the valve seals had cracked so it would burn oil at an idle.
been a great car, all the normal maintnence. redid the head at 150k, the valve seals had cracked so it would burn oil at an idle.
greddy1
03-01-2006, 11:30 AM
Just cracked the 80,000 mark on my 91. Yes, really. Like new. By the way. Does anyone know where to get obscure parts/covers? The plastic cover that goes over my emergency release for the automatic seatbelt on the driver side has gone missing. I guess that is what it's called.
JOET/CAMRY
03-01-2006, 02:22 PM
[quote=greddy1]Does anyone know where to get obscure parts/covers? The plastic cover that goes over my emergency release for the automatic seatbelt on the driver side has gone missing. I guess that is what it's called.
================================================== ================================================== ================================================== ==============================================
You can get parts for your car real cheap at a car junkyard or sometimes on ebay. the dealership can order the part you need if they don't have it in stock but you will pay big $$$:banghead: for it.:2cents:
Regards,
JOET/CAMRY
================================================== ================================================== ================================================== ==============================================
You can get parts for your car real cheap at a car junkyard or sometimes on ebay. the dealership can order the part you need if they don't have it in stock but you will pay big $$$:banghead: for it.:2cents:
Regards,
JOET/CAMRY
hibouxj
11-27-2006, 09:41 AM
I just bought an 87 Camry with 174K on it. Runs great and shifts smooth. I've only put about a thousand miles on it but I'm very happy with it. I'll take the advise of a previous poster and change the diffriental, transmission, and p/s fluid. (The Power steering is slow until it gets warmed up even though the fluid is full). My first car many years ago was the 1969 Corona that lasted 200K and was going strong until someone hit it. It's good to be driving a Toyota again.
RIP
11-27-2006, 03:08 PM
The timing belt needs to be changed every 80K miles. Mine made it 116K miles. If you're not sure of the last time it was changed I would put that on a priority list.
2000izusu
11-27-2006, 07:07 PM
got a 92 in the family (brothers, used to be mine) 2.2L auto. 220,000 miles original trans and motor. made in goergetown. starting to show its age. when below 20 degrees out the trans has to be warmed up until the seals expand (idled for 10 min) or it will slip on its first 1-2 shift. but after it is warm it shifts fine. my brother just took a 8 hour trip to atlanta in it and it did fine.
michaelzz
01-17-2007, 12:41 PM
I have a 1990 Camry appoaching 225,000 miles. It has been a very reliable car. Always a bit sluggish with acceleration, but no other complaints. All original major parts. I've done most of my mainenance with Toyota dealer.
It's got a little rot on the body by the back wheels. The engine leaks oil - I believe a rear seal. I was told $1600 to fix, $2500 to rebuild, or $2.00 every two weeks for a quart of oil. I chose the latter.
I'm now getting a recently purchased 1994 Camry (106K miles) up to speed. A bit more expensive than planned, but that was due to poor maintenance. Someday, I plan to get one built in this century, but that will be in about 5 years.
It's got a little rot on the body by the back wheels. The engine leaks oil - I believe a rear seal. I was told $1600 to fix, $2500 to rebuild, or $2.00 every two weeks for a quart of oil. I chose the latter.
I'm now getting a recently purchased 1994 Camry (106K miles) up to speed. A bit more expensive than planned, but that was due to poor maintenance. Someday, I plan to get one built in this century, but that will be in about 5 years.
gacamryowner
03-15-2008, 04:01 PM
I love my 1989 Camry 4 cyc. Its a gas saver, especially now when gas is nearing $4/gal. I had it since college and still going strong.
jdmccright
03-18-2008, 08:55 AM
Got 202,222 miles on my '92 LE 5S-FE. It's due for a new timing belt and crank/cam shaft seals, but otherwise running good.
rimfire,22
03-20-2008, 11:22 PM
cycosurfer,
Congratulatios on your great achievement!!! Your Camry is doing well at that amount of mileage and you can expect it to go for another 100K. Your doing everything possible to keep it in good running shape. Obviously youknow much more about the Camry's than I do.
Currently I have about 230K on my 89' Camry and although it sometimes bellows smoke from the tail pipe it only appears to consume less than a 1/4 quart of Mobil 1 synthetic which I use religiously. All my maintenance is done through the dealership as they should know better than I do. I expect my Camry to go til at least 300K without any problems so if I remember I'll keep every informed if anything major comes along.
rimfire,22
Congratulatios on your great achievement!!! Your Camry is doing well at that amount of mileage and you can expect it to go for another 100K. Your doing everything possible to keep it in good running shape. Obviously youknow much more about the Camry's than I do.
Currently I have about 230K on my 89' Camry and although it sometimes bellows smoke from the tail pipe it only appears to consume less than a 1/4 quart of Mobil 1 synthetic which I use religiously. All my maintenance is done through the dealership as they should know better than I do. I expect my Camry to go til at least 300K without any problems so if I remember I'll keep every informed if anything major comes along.
rimfire,22
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025