Need Help: White'ish Smoke

I went to the track last firday and discoverd an unbelievable amount of smoke was poring out from under my muffler, and out of my tail pipe while slowing down after reaching the 1/4 mile mark. I had somone run my car down the track while i watched what was going in another car in the other lane. Every time the car shifts a little puff of smoke came out. And sure enough when my car reached the 1/4 mark and he let off the acceleratior and started to cost a HUGGGEEE cloud of smoke pored out of the exhasut side of my car. I went home from the track, everything was cool, i knew somthing was wrong but wasnt seeming to affect anything yet. Boost feilt just as good as before I went out!. I didnt have time to do anything about it untell today after work.

So on my way home from work I noticed my oil pressure was extreamly low. like 5-9psi at idle and 25psi under boost! I live only 3 miles from work so I got it off the road fairly quick. I checked the oil, and the dip stick was dry. so i put a quart of oil in, and the oil level was below the low line. Started the car up, oil pressure 25 at idle, reved it to 4k, went to 50+. Ok their.

I did a compression check on my car. All the cylinders were at 150psi. but all the spark pulg tips were crusty brown. and their was dark brown residew in the sparkplug threads. preaty gunky shit. No oil in the LICP. No oil leaks. i park in the same spot every day at work and at home.

Also thought i'd check my turbo sence that what my original guess. I've never checked shaft play, so i dont know what i was looking for. but i spent a good 3-5 min's playing with the compressor wheel. i couldn't get my fingertips to do anything with the blades, but i could grab ahold of the shaft that comes out of the center. i could wiggle the shaft in-out-up-down about the thickness of a quarter.

If that makes sence to anyone, please respond. Thanks.

The only thing i can think of is head gasket but that should result in low compression. Check the coolant for oil and the oil for coolant.

Well, I did do a Dry & Wet compression check. 150 on the dry test, 157 on the wet test. there is no doubt the pistons are warn. I'm not pretending to be an expert in Mechanical Diag but isnt 150psi on a 7bolt within accepatble limits, and wouldnt accesive oil comsmption due to blow by cause larger compression diffrences then that of 150 and 157 on all cylinders? can that little of diffrence be casusing me 2 quarts of oil within 1500 miles?

I did check my radiator flud. Its Perfectly Green, full, and oil residew free!

Shit, shit, shit. More help, More help, More help!!:biggrin:

Fuck me. I took off my LICP and their is oil lineing the pipe! fuuuuck.

Edit: I took the downpipe off today, and noticed nothing abnormal about the 02 housing and DP. The o2 sensor was white with no oil stains. the downpipe was clean. Could the Exhaust wheel be taking the brunt of the oil burning? Making it look as if their was no oil burnt in the 02 housing & downpipe?

130psi is considered "acceptable" most of the oil is probably being burned at combustion. Do you have oil before the turbo or only after? Do you have a catch can on the ccv or the pcv? The ccv can send a lot of oil into the intake.

i have a catch can.

Sounds like the turbo have you checked for shaft play? If it doesn't have shaft play i'd say pull it off and take it apart to check the oil seals. Or if you're getting a new turbo soon anyway now might be the time. I'd still take the old one apart to see if that is the problem.

Shaft play the thcknness of a quarter sounds normal to me (he did check). Compression sounds normal if this is a 1g motor. Oil in the piping is also normal if the valve cover breather is still connected or was in the past.

To be honest, I think I would be looking into the valve seals. They can cause substantial oil consumption contray to popular belief (up to a quart per gas tank in my experience), will often emit the smoke under vacuum/deceleration, and will absolutely bollix the piston tops and spark plugs with crusty oil. For a long time I was swapping blocks and turbos trying to get rid of it, assuming it could NEVER be the freshly rebuilt heads... Turns out the head rebuilder was not checking or replacing the valve guides, and the seals would fail almost immediately. I now use Edgar Machine, he checks all of that and almost always ends up replace at least the exhaust side guids. Never had another problem with valve seals again. Go figure... ;)

Also I should mention that we can't really doa "wet" compression test on our motors. With dished pistons the oil just puddles in the dish. So the compression will always come out higher since the dish is now smaller, and oil never reaches the rings. :)

stock 7bolt. Humm. Crap. I have no idea how to check vlave seals. Any write-up's you know of?. Thanks