Autozone scan result, help please!!!

hi guys,

l just came back from autozone. they scanned and here is the result.


TROUBLECODE OBDII (ALPHA) P CODE

TROUBLESHOOTING P1870
Transmission Automatic 4-wheel Drive Indicator
(Lamp) Circuit Short To Battery

TROUBLESHOOTING P1870
Transmission Mechanical Transfer Case 4x4
Switch Circuit Short Battery




yeah guys, that is the result but l didn't understand anything... could you please explain what does that mean please??

Thank you...

hi guys,

l just came back from autozone. they scanned and here is the result.


TROUBLECODE OBDII (ALPHA) P CODE

TROUBLESHOOTING P1870
Transmission Automatic 4-wheel Drive Indicator
(Lamp) Circuit Short To Battery

TROUBLESHOOTING P1870
Transmission Mechanical Transfer Case 4x4
Switch Circuit Short Battery




yeah guys, that is the result but l didn't understand anything... could you please explain what does that mean please??

Thank you...

Autozone's scanners don't translate GM manufacturer specific DTC error codes too well. I don't think you have 4 wheel drive in your Firebird.

If you are really having auto trans problems and its a bonifide odb-ii code as far as P1870 and triggering a SES light, it generally means Transmission Component Slipping. The PCM monitors torque convertor clutch (TCC) slip speed by calculating the difference bewteen engine speed and drive output. It's detecting excessive slip related to the torque convertor.

Possibilities are the torque convertor, valve body related such as stuck 1-2 or 3-4 upshift solenoids or the TCC regulator valve, burnt or damaged 2nd, 3rd or 4th clutch plates, etc.

l do not think my car has 4 wheel drive either. also, l am gonna take my car back to dealership tuesday, could you guys please let me know what could the problem be excatly?
thank you....

Did you check your fluid level?
P1870 Transmission Component Slipping

l do not think my car has 4 wheel drive either. also, l am gonna take my car back to dealership tuesday, could you guys please let me know what could the problem be excatly?
thank you....

Are you actually experiencing problems like erratic shifting, delayed shifts, up shifting only after letting off the gas or over-revving?

A common problem with the 4L60E tranny was the TCC regulator valve on the valve body. Sonnex has a TCC regulator valve kit that should correct the problem. Transgo has performance shift kits that will probably take care of the problem. On my son's '96 Trans Am we wound up putting in a Transgo kit and replacing the torque convertor with an aftermarket. He spent too much time at the dragstrip and sooner or later you got to pay the Piper.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

You do know all Fbodies were rear wheel drive right?

You do know all Fbodies were rear wheel drive right?


Does that mean when you do a burn out that the smoke comes off the rear tires versus the front? lol. :lol2:

Last time I checked a 4L60E tranny was for GM rear wheel drive only and I'm quite sure the guy that needs the help knows he's got rear wheel drive without insulting his intelligence.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

hi guys,

first of all, thanks for your replies. sure l know that my car has rear wheel drive.. just firehawks are all wheel drive l guess, l read this somewhere on internet.. l just do not know so many things about engine.. also l cannot burn my car.. when l move immediately, l hit the accelerator all the way down, bu the car doesn't burd. it just moves real fast. it s automototic transmission.
by the way, formula LT1 l haven't checked fluied.
now l will go and check it..

thanks

Firehawk's or any other F-body's never left the assembly line with anything other than rear wheel drive. So where ever you read that. Never pay that site any attention again cause its full of crap :icon16: and low fluid levels causes slipping so it could very well be a super easy fix. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

John

hey bnaylor3400,

l am sorry l forgot to answer your question.. when my car changes gear, it is jumping to front.. l always hit my heas to my seat. especially from 1 gear to second gear.. ok my car is areal strong car but, it shouldn't be like that l guess.. l mean it is not changing the gears smoothly.. do you think that is normal for formula superchargers or something is wrong??

Thank you..

I'd go with FormulaLT1's suggestion first and then let us know.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

hi FormulaLT1,

thank you very much for information about firehawk also.. l remembered now, it was on autotrader.com l saw it there. all wheel drive, blah blah.. anyway l just wanna solve my girls problem..

l juest bought it.. even l haven't payed the first bill yet.. and l drove it just 200 miles. ( l bought it 1 month ago)
by the way FormulaLT1 l just opened the hood, and l couldn't see fluid place for transmission, there is just one for brake. could you please let me know what should l do step by step so l can do it right away and let you know??

thank you

hi bnayloer3400,
l will do everybody's suggestions, because you guys knows everthing better than me.. and l tried to do it but l couldnt find the fluid place:):) l am sorry..

The dipstick to the tranny should be passenger side rear of engine. Running along the firewall. With the vehicle level, start the car put it in each gear then leave running in park and pull the dipstick, wipe it off and then note the temp of the fluid and it will be marked cool/warm/hot on the stick and should be within that range within what temp it is. If it is below the cool mark it most definetly is low and that is whats most likely causing the slipping.

thank you formula LT1, now l will check it.. by th way, l have a cellphone with camera and l always take pics.. if you go to supercharger folder, you will see my engine pics.. l took them 10 mins ago.. and after l check that dipstick, l will take pic. again and you will see on the pic, what level it has.. l will be back soon.

thank you..

hi FormulaLT1,

l just checked, there were three options, 80F, warm, HOT.. mine was passing a little bit more through the 80F. untill haf way of warm. l hope you understood this.. l do not have good enough english, l am sorry..


http://us.f322.mail.yahoo.com/ym/ShowLetter/Image_15_.jpg?viewimg=1&box=Inbox&MsgId=8703_26435942_21813_1819_75257_0_7297_98065_ 1282903054&bodyPart=2&filename=Image_15_.jpg&tnef=&YY=83249&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0

let me know what do you think please..

thank you..

Where did you host those pics cause they are not appearing as anything other than a red X.

well l took the pic autoside.. but you do not have to see this pic l guess, because, it is so easy to tell for me. 80f, warm, hot.. mine was over the 80f, below the warm l mean it was on the middle,
but if you wanna see the pic, ok l will try to take better one.. be back soon.

thanks..

Well if the tranny fluid level is above the warm mark. Most likely you wouldn't be low enough to cause slipping. So my next suggestion since transmission components are very difficult to diagnose is bring your car to a tranny shop that does free inspection and hopefully they can tell you whats going on without having to open her up,. Good luck

John

hi FormulaLT1

l just took a new pic but it s blurry, l tried my best but it was shining so much and l took a little bit closer.. but it is blurry.. also this time it was on 80F.. even it was alittle bit less..

maybe my problem is really this..

here is the pic.. please let me know what doo you think.. also my gear is slippin from D to N , N to D.. it doesnt go any other gears without pushing the button. just between D and N..

http://us.f322.mail.yahoo.com/ym/ShowLetter/Image_16_.jpg?viewimg=1&box=Inbox&MsgId=191_26578245_23405_1820_56606_0_7304_73940_8 63882992&bodyPart=2&filename=Image_16_.jpg&tnef=&YY=79090&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0

no, it wasn't above the warm, it was reaching the warm a little biit but second time l checked, it was center of 80F.. it was lower.. l gues l need some fluid right??

Is the fluid warm? and try hosting your pics either in the gallery here or www.imageshack.us (http://www.imageshack.us) cause none of the links your giving to pics are working. Either that or just put in a direct link to the picture on the hosted site cause its not the picture quality I can't make out, its the whole image thats not appearing. It may be watermarked by the hosting site and AF doesn't allow that. If the fluid is warm to the touch or hot yes, that means its low and you should buy a quart, add half of it while the engine is idling and then recheck the level.

i dont think he is hosting the pics anywhere, i think he has them in a folder called supercharger on his desk top and is just putting in the image location on his computer like "C:\windows\desktop\supercharger\thisimage.jpg"

1 click "Gallery" at the top left of the screen (scroll all the way up to top of the page), go there, you might have to login (use same user name and password that you use to get here)

2 click upload, browse your computer for the image you want us to see then click upload

3 after it uploads copy the link that says share this photo with others.

hope this helps.

l am sorry guys, l didnt know about uploading images but now l know..

here are the pics which l was trying to send you guys.. l am sorry again..

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/366816Image_16_-med.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/366816Image_15_-med.jpg

l am sorry guys, l didnt know about uploading images but now l know..

here are the pics which l was trying to send you guys.. l am sorry again..

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/366816Image_16_-med.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/366816Image_15_-med.jpg

:) no problem, glad i could help.

as for those imagies i donno, gonna have to wait for john to wonder back over this way for a reply.

Hey Doodad...nice job on the pics. How many miles are on your Firebird? Did FormulaLT1 get back with you? Its look like you might be a little low on the Dextron-III fluid but its hard to tell by the pics. The ATF level will change as the engine and tranny warms up or reaches operating temperature.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

hi bnaylor3400,

l know it is hard to tell on pics, even impossible l guess but l just wanted to take some and share with you.. my girl has a lot of miles, 125,000 miles.. when l checked the transmission dipstick, there were three options, 80F, Warm, Hot and mine was between warm and 80F but then l checked again it was on 80F.. it was less..

yeah formulaLT1 tried his best about this.. l really do not know how to thank you guys..

thank you automotiveforums and thank you all guys..


Erdal

Judging from the pic it looks a little low and you can't always go by were you see a little fluid. There should be a good coat to see where the level actually is cause the tranny fluid is under pressure so it can spatter . I would add a 1/2 a quart and recheck it. Good luck and thats what this forum is here for , no thanks necessary.

John

thank you formulaLT1,

BY THE WAY, IS THAT YOUR CAR?? THAT BLUE ONE ON YOUR SIGNATURE. and what is difference between formula LT1 and formula?? also, what should l say to the dealer tomorrow?? l know they will try to trick me or whatever but l wouldnt like that..

thank you formulaLT1,

BY THE WAY, IS THAT YOUR CAR?? THAT BLUE ONE ON YOUR SIGNATURE. and what is difference between formula LT1 and formula?? also, what should l say to the dealer tomorrow?? l know they will try to trick me or whatever but l wouldnt like that..
Why are you going to the dealer? and yes thats my car. Thats not me behind the wheel though :cwm27:

hi john..

l will go to dealer because when l got my car, they told me that the mechanic checked everything and everything is fine. but my brake is so hard.. it is really had to stop my car. my right reverse light is not working, my spoiler brake light is not working, my right exhaust pipe is loose and service engine soon light is always on. my air conditioner is working but not cold at all, power windows are working but sometimes, when l wanna turn the windows on or off, they stop and l goota wait like a couple minutes and l press the buuttons they go a little bit and they stop again.. l think the windows motor is dying. my problems are all these.. ( which l know) thats why l will take the car to the dealer. l do not know how much would they cost, if l would try to repare by myself..

l should take to the dealer right??

Buy a haynes manual and get use to checking out this site http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html . i think everyone of those fixes is listed. Your better off going to a regular mechanic though if your going to get it done cause dealers rape you on the labor.

HI JOHN..

if l go to a regular mechanic, then l would have to pay for it.. but delaer told me that they would take care of it.. and could you please GUESS. how much would my problems cost?? l wore them above..

thank you..

thank you formulaLT1,

BY THE WAY, IS THAT YOUR CAR?? THAT BLUE ONE ON YOUR SIGNATURE. and what is difference between formula LT1 and formula?? also, what should l say to the dealer tomorrow?? l know they will try to trick me or whatever but l wouldnt like that..

john didnt say anything on this so i will, formula is the car its self, and in the 93 - 97 years the v8 was an LT1 small block, 98 - 02 was an LS1 small block, as for the older years i donno what their engines where

From '92 and back third generation the 5.7L V8 was dubbed L98. In reality they are just GM RPO codes. RPO meaning Regular Production Option.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

thank you guys.. l am slowly but surely learning about cars.. that is great..

so, LT1 or LS1 which is stronger, which is better??

LS1 is stronger from the factory but they even out once you start modding IMO. Although the LS1 is always a smoother ride from what I have seen, I am sure the coil pack ignition system is a big part of that.

The major difference between the LT1 and LS1 is the block is all aluminum with iron cylinder liners that are cast in place when the block is poured. The LS1 engine is 100 pounds lighter than the LT1.

Although they are both 350 c.i.d, the bore/stroke was changed to 3.90/3.62 inches versus 4.00/3.48 for the LT1.

Regardless, both are great engines.

Just my 2 cents. :2cents:



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

doodad-

I understand your car is new to you, and you're not yet quite familiar with the motor or driveline components. This is to be expected, and you will learn more as time goes by.

If I may suggest..... a good way to begin learning about your car would be to buy a service manual for your model/year. You can usually find a HAYNES or CHILTONS manual at you local parts store. It will help you diagnose many problems and help you maintain the car.

As for the transmission problem you're having......
Be certain the transmission fluid level is correct. Not too low.... not over filled.... and that if you need to add fluid, that you use the correct type fluid(Dexron III ATF).

Does the fluid seem to be a dark color as if it were burnt, and/or does the fluid smell burnt? (it "should" be a "clean" redish color).

If it smells burnt or is a dark redish-brown, this means the transmission is/has been running hot. Heat is a transmission's worst enemy, and will shorten it's life. Usually when a transmission "slips", it is a sign of worn bands and/or clutches/clutch packs.


Transmission problems are difficult to diagnose over the internet.

The "easiest" way to solve the problem would be as mentioned already, and take the car to a qualified transmission repair shop and have them diagnose and repair the problem.

It "may" be something as simple as needing a filter and flush if the transmission has never been serviced.

Good luck with it, and keep us posted!

Hi lowest..

thank you very much for your helping.. my transmission fliud was a little bit lower adnit wasn't burnt at all.. it was red or like redish.. l have heard about that book too.. l will get one. as soon as l can l will create a video and l will send it to you guys. well, l am not gonna have a video like MR.LUOS. he had drag racing and burning, blah blah.. l cannot do that,. because in the U.S.A l do not have any friends.. l just have wife.. she is gonna help me.. l am just gonna drive my girl smoothly and record a video and send it to you..
today l took my girl back to the dealer and they checked the car for a while.. air conditioning, power windows, service engine soon light etc.. and they said that they needed more time to chek the car and they wanted me to leave the car. but it is away from my home and l didnt leave the car. l will take the car on sunday and l will get my car back on monday. they just pust something (spray) inside the air conditioning thing and air conditioning started to be colder.. but they said that they will check it excatly..
well, we will see.. l will post you as soon as l got my car..

thanks..

Erdal

I look forward to seeing it Erdal.

you will see john.. soon..

do you know what guys.. sometimes l wanna have problem on my car to talk to you.. because l really enjoy to spend time on this web site,. l am always online, but l do not know what to post to you.. thats why l am just reading.. soemtimes l wanna post but l cannot answer any questions because l do not understand anything about cars.. thats why l am just reading your posts.. well l do not understand 100% what you guys wriyte.. because of my poor english,. but l will be better..

l cannot wait to get my car on monday so l could chat wiht you guys..

Thank you..

Erdal

Don't feel bad about not knowing. We all were beginners at one point or another, and most of us learned by reading, asking questions and eventually doing our own work on our cars.

As you learn, you will become more comfortable and before you know it, you'll be repairing things yourself, saving money by doing it yourself, and having pride in the fact that you did it!

Don't feel bad about not knowing. We all were beginners at one point or another, and most of us learned by reading, asking questions and eventually doing our own work on our cars.

As you learn, you will become more comfortable and before you know it, you'll be repairing things yourself, saving money by doing it yourself, and having pride in the fact that you did it!

^ what he said, and dont worry to much about the language, as you read and make posts you will get better with the language, so far no one has been negative about it, and they will try to work with you around the language problem.

seems like you are having some problems with your bird, hope everything works out for you, and dont for get to check out those books that was mentioned before.

Good luck.

BTW: Welcome to AF :smile:

The key to mechanics is knowledge. Once you become familiar with your car and how everything works and doesn't, you will find how easy it is to be able to tell if your mechanic is just blowing smoke for a few extra bucks. Most reputable mechanics are above trying to take you for a ride, if you'll pardon the pun. But there are others who just figure replace everything you can so they can pocket more. I have a concern about the dealer you bought your car from if it had that many problems. Just make sure that if it's under warranty that you hound them almost daily until they fix all of the problems. That way they don't try to prolong it until you are out of warranty.

l am gonna start make a video of my girl's but l am telling you guys from now..

do not expect a video like mr.lous.. l am not gonna burn my tries and l am not gonna be in drag racing:D
also l do not have even one friend and l have nobody to shoot video of my girl.. l am gonna ask my wife but l do not know how good is it gonna be.. l do not think it is gonna be a good video. l am sure you can understand me..

thank you..

Erdal

I dont want to thread-jack....but i've just started experiencing the same problem.

Funny thing is, I too have a 97 firebird formula A4...however I know my way around a smidge...

anywho, man my baby slams 1-2 gear shifts, im taking...SLAMS! Just got her back from the shop the other day from a rear main seal replacement, had a b&m kit installed with a full tranny flush (TC, everything blown out)...and man she's just slamming 1-2 now... 3-4 seem fine.

Anywho, this is beyond the norm for a basic b&m shift kit...

She threw on her SES light, so...
Had her down at "Advanced Auto" here in my town, and she spat back 2 "p1870" codes...(the significance of two i dont know)...however I did my fair share of googling and found out this is a direct result of tranny slippage. (Common problem i read was the TC clutch wasnt locking up...)


My question is...why the hell not toss a 2800 stall TC in there to solve my problem?



Yes, all fluids are fine btw.


here's a picture of her...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/phrozen755/CAR123-1.jpg

Very nice Car and welcome to AF Phrozey but we don't really like bringing back nearly year old thread but feel free to start a new thread on the subject Thanks

John