Any ideas?
dscottsword
08-20-2005, 03:49 PM
I have a 98 GTP(supercharged 3.8L) with about 80,000 miles. When starting the car, the information center comes on briefly through starting but goes off after started. And the fuel pump continues to whine loudly, and a gassy, exhausty smell occurs.
About a month ago the car started giving me problems with what I thought was just the ignition switch. When I turned the key all the way to start the car didn't do anything. The accessories came on (i.e. a/c, radio, etc.) but nothing from the starter. I had to turn the key 3 or 4 times to start the car.
So now today I have installed a new switch and the same thing happens. Info. center goes out, fuel pump whines, and the smell is still there. Although it starts everytime now as opposed to having to turn it back and forth 3 or 4 times. I have a new key cylinder ordered that I'm going to instal tomorrow. But for some reason I just don't think that's the problem.
You guys are alot more educated than any of the GMC or Chevy dealerships' service personal around here. So if anyone could come up with an idea of what is wrong I would very much appreciate it.
Thanks in advance,
--Scott Sword
About a month ago the car started giving me problems with what I thought was just the ignition switch. When I turned the key all the way to start the car didn't do anything. The accessories came on (i.e. a/c, radio, etc.) but nothing from the starter. I had to turn the key 3 or 4 times to start the car.
So now today I have installed a new switch and the same thing happens. Info. center goes out, fuel pump whines, and the smell is still there. Although it starts everytime now as opposed to having to turn it back and forth 3 or 4 times. I have a new key cylinder ordered that I'm going to instal tomorrow. But for some reason I just don't think that's the problem.
You guys are alot more educated than any of the GMC or Chevy dealerships' service personal around here. So if anyone could come up with an idea of what is wrong I would very much appreciate it.
Thanks in advance,
--Scott Sword
BNaylor
08-21-2005, 01:46 AM
Check for fuel leaks from the gas tank, fuel filter, and to the fuel injectors rails and the fuel pressure regulator. Also check the evaporative emissions lines between the gas tank and charcoal cannister. You can check fuel system pressure for 45 - 55 psi at the Schrader valve on the fuel pressure regulator.
On the noisy or whiny fuel pump, it probably needs to be replaced. Although its possible, I don't think the DIC problem is related. Do you ever get a SES light?
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
On the noisy or whiny fuel pump, it probably needs to be replaced. Although its possible, I don't think the DIC problem is related. Do you ever get a SES light?
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
dscottsword
08-21-2005, 10:46 AM
No I don't ever get a SES light. But after getting the new key cylinder in and it NOT being the problem, I've started to analyze the problems in further detail. I do not think that the whiny fuel pump and the smells are related to the D.I.C. not working. I think I just tied all of those symptoms together in my mind and thought that was one big problem. Thanks for the help on the smells and the fuel pump though, because those issues need to be addressed. But I still have the problem with my D.I.C. not coming on.(NOT THE TIME FOR JOKES PLEASE!,LOL) Or actually on for a second during starting and then off after starting. Thanks again in advance for any help.
BNaylor
08-21-2005, 12:43 PM
No I don't ever get a SES light. But after getting the new key cylinder in and it NOT being the problem, I've started to analyze the problems in further detail. I do not think that the whiny fuel pump and the smells are related to the D.I.C. not working. I think I just tied all of those symptoms together in my mind and thought that was one big problem. Thanks for the help on the smells and the fuel pump though, because those issues need to be addressed. But I still have the problem with my D.I.C. not coming on.(NOT THE TIME FOR JOKES PLEASE!,LOL) Or actually on for a second during starting and then off after starting. Thanks again in advance for any help.
On your DIC problem there are a couple of things to check but most of the time it must be removed to get at the electrical connector or re-solder possibly cold solder joints. You'll need a voltmeter to check voltages.
The DIC gets 12v from the ignition circuit via the IP-IGN fuse (10 amp) in run, bulb test or engine start positions. The signal inputs at DIC Pin D (pink wire).
The back illumination comes from the lighting system. It inputs at DIC Pin P (gray wire).
On one DIC problem I worked on, I removed the DIC. Re-soldered what appeared to be cold solder joints on the PCB, put it back in and it worked.
For example what turns on a respective fault lamp such as left door ajar is a ground from the door sensor swtich. The 12 v hot is always present on one side of the respective lamp. There are isolation diodes with the lamps built into the PCB which could short out taking down the 12v. If one of these are bad you will probably need to replace the DIC unit.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
On your DIC problem there are a couple of things to check but most of the time it must be removed to get at the electrical connector or re-solder possibly cold solder joints. You'll need a voltmeter to check voltages.
The DIC gets 12v from the ignition circuit via the IP-IGN fuse (10 amp) in run, bulb test or engine start positions. The signal inputs at DIC Pin D (pink wire).
The back illumination comes from the lighting system. It inputs at DIC Pin P (gray wire).
On one DIC problem I worked on, I removed the DIC. Re-soldered what appeared to be cold solder joints on the PCB, put it back in and it worked.
For example what turns on a respective fault lamp such as left door ajar is a ground from the door sensor swtich. The 12 v hot is always present on one side of the respective lamp. There are isolation diodes with the lamps built into the PCB which could short out taking down the 12v. If one of these are bad you will probably need to replace the DIC unit.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026