will a weber help get rid of vacuum hoses?
mazda driver
08-19-2005, 07:55 PM
i am trying to help out my b2000 and was looking at a 32/36 weber... i was wondering if that would at the same time help cut out some or most of my vacuum hoses..hopefully...?? thanks, chris
dazada
08-21-2005, 11:47 PM
before i totaled my mazda...i was looking at the same carb and a pacesetter header...i belive on of the nice things about adding the combination is that it adds horsepower and cleans up the look of the engine, by cleaning up some of the clutter.
mazda driver
08-22-2005, 07:42 PM
before i totaled my mazda...i was looking at the same carb and a pacesetter header...i belive on of the nice things about adding the combination is that it adds horsepower and cleans up the look of the engine, by cleaning up some of the clutter.
yeah..my engine just got done being rebuilt..and a pacesetter header is
sitting here in my living room as we speak.. :lol2: ..........thanks
yeah..my engine just got done being rebuilt..and a pacesetter header is
sitting here in my living room as we speak.. :lol2: ..........thanks
Kyrasis6
09-11-2005, 12:58 PM
Yea the weber makes 99% of all that junk non-fuctional. The only thing you will need vacuum lines for is the vacuum advance on the distributor which you can do one of 2 ways. You can run a line straight from the carb to the vac advance which isn't the best way but is functional.
The second way is to go from the carb to the actuator under the manifold and then to the solenoid mounted on the top front of the manifold (its black and mounted with a little bracket and two 12 mm bolts). From there it goes to the vac advance. You would also need to keep the stock pressure sensor and wire it to the solenoid in a way to get it to open at high vacuum.
If you do it the first way it will have less power when cold, be harder to drive in winter until it warms up and will cause the engine to run hotter on deceleration as the flame front will hit the piston before it hits top dead center. This also puts a lot of strain on the engine and can potentially cause sever damage to the engine if you downshift at high rpm or even just let off the gas at high rpm.
If you do it the second way it will run better when cold and the engine will be must less likely to get hot or have other failure problems in the future.
The second way is to go from the carb to the actuator under the manifold and then to the solenoid mounted on the top front of the manifold (its black and mounted with a little bracket and two 12 mm bolts). From there it goes to the vac advance. You would also need to keep the stock pressure sensor and wire it to the solenoid in a way to get it to open at high vacuum.
If you do it the first way it will have less power when cold, be harder to drive in winter until it warms up and will cause the engine to run hotter on deceleration as the flame front will hit the piston before it hits top dead center. This also puts a lot of strain on the engine and can potentially cause sever damage to the engine if you downshift at high rpm or even just let off the gas at high rpm.
If you do it the second way it will run better when cold and the engine will be must less likely to get hot or have other failure problems in the future.
mdcrazy
10-08-2005, 04:19 PM
Would converting over to the 5200 holley get rid of the smoke on start-up? And is there somewhere we could get a diagram that would better help us to correctly hook up the vacuum advance. ALSO, JCWHITNEY is a good place to get a rebuilt 5200 from the mustang II.
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