Putty Over Plastic Issue
ImolaEK
08-19-2005, 07:41 PM
A while back i had posted a problem with Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick Type. I had gotten several swirls in the body work that i had done to my Nissan Silvia model that I had painted with Tamiya Primer/Paint/Clear. All the areas were sanded down and prepped for paint very high grit (2000) sand paper for paint. As i sprayed the primer i noticed that the areas that i had filled with putty had become visible with small lines sorrounding it (like an outline of what i had done). If you run your finger through the parts you will feel it very smooth, but with primer you see an awkward outline of those sections:( I thought this was just with Tamiya Epoxy putty so i went on and bought some Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Putty. I began to use it yesterday on three models that i am doing. Hoping that i didn't get the same things as i did with my Silvia i imideately checked for those reactions by primering it right away. This time i am using Brite Touch Primer (primer which i have used on my past 5 models. Primer is applied by can. Well this is what i can see from the results. Hoping you guys can help
here is my current build (Hasegawa Civic SiR-II) Using Euro-Soft
Notice the Swirls on the wing
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03582.jpg
And here is a shot with the light facing down on it to look for imperfections
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03583.jpg
Here is the Silvia i did with Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick Type a while back (around 6-8 months ago) Paint is still perfect but the side skirts and rear lip got huge swirls on it.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03588.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03584.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03585.jpg
When i was working on the Silvia i noticed this and tried to fill them up with primer and sand it even. It worked for a while but around 3 months ago was when i began noticing this changes on the parts putty was applied.
Hope this explains alot:(
here is my current build (Hasegawa Civic SiR-II) Using Euro-Soft
Notice the Swirls on the wing
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03582.jpg
And here is a shot with the light facing down on it to look for imperfections
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03583.jpg
Here is the Silvia i did with Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick Type a while back (around 6-8 months ago) Paint is still perfect but the side skirts and rear lip got huge swirls on it.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03588.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03584.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/ImolaEK/DSC03585.jpg
When i was working on the Silvia i noticed this and tried to fill them up with primer and sand it even. It worked for a while but around 3 months ago was when i began noticing this changes on the parts putty was applied.
Hope this explains alot:(
pre98zetec
08-19-2005, 07:56 PM
walmart primer doesn't work with body work, use duplicolor filler primer. I've had the same thing happen
ImolaEK
08-19-2005, 07:58 PM
walmart primer doesn't work with body work, use duplicolor filler primer. I've had the same thing happen
But what about the Tamiya primer over the Silvia?
But what about the Tamiya primer over the Silvia?
pre98zetec
08-19-2005, 08:02 PM
never used tamiya- can't tell you that one
ZoomZoomMX-5
08-19-2005, 08:11 PM
I simple terms, the thinners/chemicals from the primer and paint are leeching their way into the plastic, causing it to swell around the areas that have putty. It happens with nearly any lacquer primer, including Tamiya.
There are a couple ways around it, first is to prime the body before laying down any putty, this allows the putty to adhere to the paint and the paint to adhere to the plastic.
Second, use of a sealer type primer is best over these areas. Unfortunately the best are all airbrush, whether it's Dupont Variprime or MCW sealer, or even Cobra Colors VX primer which is like Variprime but not catalyzed (it has done a superb job of sealing the bodywork on my Scaglietti so far against all the lacquers and fillers). If you can't use a sealer, you must add the paint very slowly, and keep wetsanding the areas smooth until it stops. Several coats of primer done this way should help alleviate it.
Sometimes as lacquers age they shink more, and you see these areas after time. Best use a food dehydrator modified for model use, and use it while you are priming, puttying, and painting. It speeds up the drying time of everything, so you won't have to wait long or have nasty surprises later on. For every 10 degrees above ambient, it cuts the drying time in half. If your house is 70 degrees and the dehydrator is 110, then it cuts a 24 hour drying cycle down to 1 1/2 hours. Or a week's drying down to 1/2 a day. Or a month's down to a day and a half.
There are a couple ways around it, first is to prime the body before laying down any putty, this allows the putty to adhere to the paint and the paint to adhere to the plastic.
Second, use of a sealer type primer is best over these areas. Unfortunately the best are all airbrush, whether it's Dupont Variprime or MCW sealer, or even Cobra Colors VX primer which is like Variprime but not catalyzed (it has done a superb job of sealing the bodywork on my Scaglietti so far against all the lacquers and fillers). If you can't use a sealer, you must add the paint very slowly, and keep wetsanding the areas smooth until it stops. Several coats of primer done this way should help alleviate it.
Sometimes as lacquers age they shink more, and you see these areas after time. Best use a food dehydrator modified for model use, and use it while you are priming, puttying, and painting. It speeds up the drying time of everything, so you won't have to wait long or have nasty surprises later on. For every 10 degrees above ambient, it cuts the drying time in half. If your house is 70 degrees and the dehydrator is 110, then it cuts a 24 hour drying cycle down to 1 1/2 hours. Or a week's drying down to 1/2 a day. Or a month's down to a day and a half.
ImolaEK
08-19-2005, 08:57 PM
I simple terms, the thinners/chemicals from the primer and paint are leeching their way into the plastic, causing it to swell around the areas that have putty. It happens with nearly any lacquer primer, including Tamiya.
There are a couple ways around it, first is to prime the body before laying down any putty, this allows the putty to adhere to the paint and the paint to adhere to the plastic.
Second, use of a sealer type primer is best over these areas. Unfortunately the best are all airbrush, whether it's Dupont Variprime or MCW sealer, or even Cobra Colors VX primer which is like Variprime but not catalyzed (it has done a superb job of sealing the bodywork on my Scaglietti so far against all the lacquers and fillers). If you can't use a sealer, you must add the paint very slowly, and keep wetsanding the areas smooth until it stops. Several coats of primer done this way should help alleviate it.
Sometimes as lacquers age they shink more, and you see these areas after time. Best use a food dehydrator modified for model use, and use it while you are priming, puttying, and painting. It speeds up the drying time of everything, so you won't have to wait long or have nasty surprises later on. For every 10 degrees above ambient, it cuts the drying time in half. If your house is 70 degrees and the dehydrator is 110, then it cuts a 24 hour drying cycle down to 1 1/2 hours. Or a week's drying down to 1/2 a day. Or a month's down to a day and a half.
Thanks alot. I think i saw a DUPONT store close by so i'll have to check out what they have. I'll try airbrushing primer since i have all these airbrushes laying around and they need to be put to work :tongue:
Thanks alot for the tip man. I've been using a Dehydrator for a while. Its seriously a big help. Definitely was worth the money and saves time :)
So what should i do now. Sand down this primer that i had layed on the car ?
This is a big relief:) I was beginning to not want to do body work on models anymore:)
There are a couple ways around it, first is to prime the body before laying down any putty, this allows the putty to adhere to the paint and the paint to adhere to the plastic.
Second, use of a sealer type primer is best over these areas. Unfortunately the best are all airbrush, whether it's Dupont Variprime or MCW sealer, or even Cobra Colors VX primer which is like Variprime but not catalyzed (it has done a superb job of sealing the bodywork on my Scaglietti so far against all the lacquers and fillers). If you can't use a sealer, you must add the paint very slowly, and keep wetsanding the areas smooth until it stops. Several coats of primer done this way should help alleviate it.
Sometimes as lacquers age they shink more, and you see these areas after time. Best use a food dehydrator modified for model use, and use it while you are priming, puttying, and painting. It speeds up the drying time of everything, so you won't have to wait long or have nasty surprises later on. For every 10 degrees above ambient, it cuts the drying time in half. If your house is 70 degrees and the dehydrator is 110, then it cuts a 24 hour drying cycle down to 1 1/2 hours. Or a week's drying down to 1/2 a day. Or a month's down to a day and a half.
Thanks alot. I think i saw a DUPONT store close by so i'll have to check out what they have. I'll try airbrushing primer since i have all these airbrushes laying around and they need to be put to work :tongue:
Thanks alot for the tip man. I've been using a Dehydrator for a while. Its seriously a big help. Definitely was worth the money and saves time :)
So what should i do now. Sand down this primer that i had layed on the car ?
This is a big relief:) I was beginning to not want to do body work on models anymore:)
ImolaEK
08-19-2005, 09:15 PM
Or maybe i should order some stuff from Leon (cobra colors) Only thing that is keeping me from doing this is the time that it will take to ship :(
willimo
08-19-2005, 09:22 PM
Cobra Colors is actually pretty fast. If you order it Monday, it'll get there before the weekend in my experience.
If not, well, now he'll have to deliver or I'll be wrong. Talk about pressure! :evillol:
If not, well, now he'll have to deliver or I'll be wrong. Talk about pressure! :evillol:
ImolaEK
08-19-2005, 10:10 PM
Cobra Colors is actually pretty fast. If you order it Monday, it'll get there before the weekend in my experience.
If not, well, now he'll have to deliver or I'll be wrong. Talk about pressure! :evillol:
:lol:Sounds fantastic.
Knights of colombus this whole delay is making me become unsettled. Great odence raven !
If not, well, now he'll have to deliver or I'll be wrong. Talk about pressure! :evillol:
:lol:Sounds fantastic.
Knights of colombus this whole delay is making me become unsettled. Great odence raven !
ZoomZoomMX-5
08-20-2005, 07:23 AM
Thanks alot. I think i saw a DUPONT store close by so i'll have to check out what they have. I'll try airbrushing primer since i have all these airbrushes laying around and they need to be put to work :tongue:
Thanks alot for the tip man. I've been using a Dehydrator for a while. Its seriously a big help. Definitely was worth the money and saves time :)
So what should i do now. Sand down this primer that i had layed on the car ?
Try the Cobra Colors VX primer before buying a large quantity (quart) of Variprime and it's catalyst. If you do use any Variprime, you must use a cartridge-style mask. Which is a good idea w/all paints, but especially w/urethanes.
Those problem areas in your primer, keep priming/sanding smooth those areas. Eventually it should behave, but beware that the color or clear could also make the areas reappear. Tread very lightly/carefully.
Thanks alot for the tip man. I've been using a Dehydrator for a while. Its seriously a big help. Definitely was worth the money and saves time :)
So what should i do now. Sand down this primer that i had layed on the car ?
Try the Cobra Colors VX primer before buying a large quantity (quart) of Variprime and it's catalyst. If you do use any Variprime, you must use a cartridge-style mask. Which is a good idea w/all paints, but especially w/urethanes.
Those problem areas in your primer, keep priming/sanding smooth those areas. Eventually it should behave, but beware that the color or clear could also make the areas reappear. Tread very lightly/carefully.
ImolaEK
08-20-2005, 01:17 PM
Try the Cobra Colors VX primer before buying a large quantity (quart) of Variprime and it's catalyst. If you do use any Variprime, you must use a cartridge-style mask. Which is a good idea w/all paints, but especially w/urethanes.
Those problem areas in your primer, keep priming/sanding smooth those areas. Eventually it should behave, but beware that the color or clear could also make the areas reappear. Tread very lightly/carefully.
Thanks for the advice,
Its its actually good that I got this error on the wing of this model since its the only part that is going to be covered in Carbon Fiber. The front lip still has not recieved primer and it wont receive any until I get some of the VX primer:)
I have a question, Lamborghini Verde Artemis, is that color a Tricoat paint from Cobra Colors? The ones that cost 11.95?:( I love that color, but im hoping its just a normal paint so i could pay 6.95. I know, im cheap, but hey i have to save my parents money:(
Those problem areas in your primer, keep priming/sanding smooth those areas. Eventually it should behave, but beware that the color or clear could also make the areas reappear. Tread very lightly/carefully.
Thanks for the advice,
Its its actually good that I got this error on the wing of this model since its the only part that is going to be covered in Carbon Fiber. The front lip still has not recieved primer and it wont receive any until I get some of the VX primer:)
I have a question, Lamborghini Verde Artemis, is that color a Tricoat paint from Cobra Colors? The ones that cost 11.95?:( I love that color, but im hoping its just a normal paint so i could pay 6.95. I know, im cheap, but hey i have to save my parents money:(
ImolaEK
08-20-2005, 03:09 PM
Well i just did my first order to Cobra Colors :)
VX Primer - 5.95
Clear Coat- 5.95
Lamborghini 40th anniversary Verde Artemis Pearl - 11.95
Total came to 27.80:)
I think i'll have the first Civic ever with a Lamborghini paint job:lol: Paint will be worth more than the car in real life and in plastic:lol: Got this kit for 8 dollars:lol: (less than what the paint costed me)
Hope it gets here quick:) Illinois isn't too far from NJ:)
VX Primer - 5.95
Clear Coat- 5.95
Lamborghini 40th anniversary Verde Artemis Pearl - 11.95
Total came to 27.80:)
I think i'll have the first Civic ever with a Lamborghini paint job:lol: Paint will be worth more than the car in real life and in plastic:lol: Got this kit for 8 dollars:lol: (less than what the paint costed me)
Hope it gets here quick:) Illinois isn't too far from NJ:)
kaho
08-20-2005, 03:36 PM
Good luck man, I had lots of this same problem over my works, and I never knew how to fix them!
ImolaEK
08-20-2005, 09:37 PM
Good luck man, I had lots of this same problem over my works, and I never knew how to fix them!
Yea, its defenitely something horrible. A really big way to ruin everything you have done.
Yea, its defenitely something horrible. A really big way to ruin everything you have done.
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