two questions

first one. i need a trans that can handle at least 900 to 1000hp, what is a good recomondation.
Second one. what gears do you think i should get also do i need to get a new rear end for this much hp.

Its a 1990 ford mustang. going to be dropping a 351 in it, with it bored out pistons, crank, camshaft, the hole works also going to be putting a pro charger on it, and then to top if off a shot of nos so i dont know how much hp ill have but its going to be alot, thanks for helping.

Is it gonna be a dyno queen, a street car, or a drag car?

Its a Ford, so it will not be a Dyno Queen :)

first one. i need a trans that can handle at least 900 to 1000hp, what is a good recomondation.
Second one. what gears do you think i should get also do i need to get a new rear end for this much hp.

Its a 1990 ford mustang. going to be dropping a 351 in it, with it bored out pistons, crank, camshaft, the hole works also going to be putting a pro charger on it, and then to top if off a shot of nos so i dont know how much hp ill have but its going to be alot, thanks for helping.


N2O and boost, do you know what you are doing?

As for the trans, TKO 600, for a manual, but if you want it to go do the 1/4 go C4 or a power glide. If the car is going to see a lot of street miles AOD. I would not go over 3.55 in the rear, actually 3.27 are better for trapping. With 3.55 I would not go lower than a 28" tire.

first one. i need a trans that can handle at least 900 to 1000hp, what is a good recomondation.
Second one. what gears do you think i should get also do i need to get a new rear end for this much hp.

Its a 1990 ford mustang. going to be dropping a 351 in it, with it bored out pistons, crank, camshaft, the hole works also going to be putting a pro charger on it, and then to top if off a shot of nos so i dont know how much hp ill have but its going to be alot, thanks for helping.

900-1000hp... come on........ :rofl:

900-1000hp... come on........ :rofl:

Everyone has a dream :)

My build will be a lot like his, but going turbo. I have a more realistic goal of 650:D

i agree with skyline usa. i think this dudes gonna blow himself up with nitrous AND boost. no offense but it really does not sound like you know what youre doing.

Pimpdaddy,

Explain your combo that you want to build, and goals.

ok its going to be a summtimes driver just to like car shows and when i want to play. Its going to manily going to be a car show car. Putting a 351 Dartarow block bored to, i cant remember what the 351 can be bored to. but forged pistons, and rods, a good cam shaft and crank(any suggestions) GT40x turboswirl aluminum heads, a good intake manfold, a big fuel pump and big fuel injectors, 75mm tb and egr, a big radiator, a electric water pump, fuel rails and adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and to top it off a procharger Stage II with a D-1 3 core intercooled running like 8 to 10 Psi when just driving on the street to like 15 to 20 psi when racing. and i dont know about the nos i dont think im going to mess with that just yet, any thing i forgot let me know.
and what about the rear end. and dont remmeber what the gears mean is it the higher the numbers the the better top end you have and the smaller the gears the quicker you will be in the 1/4 of a mile.

are C4 Ato or man and they are what 4 gears.

is this a good block. and bore

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBF-Dart-Iron-Eagle-Sportsman-blocks-332-347-351-427_W0QQitemZ7966168752QQcategoryZ33613QQssPageNam eZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

is this a good block. and bore

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBF-Dart-Iron-Eagle-Sportsman-blocks-332-347-351-427_W0QQitemZ7966168752QQcategoryZ33613QQssPageNam eZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Thats a 9.5 block, just make sure you know what you are buying when you get other parts, namely the intake.

are C4 Ato or man and they are what 4 gears.

A C4 is a 3 speed auto, you can google the gears that tranny.

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/c4/Tags.gif

1ST LETTER IS DECADE:
A = 1940'S (OFTEN OMITTED)
B = 1950'S
C = 1960'S
D = 1970'S
E = 1980'S
F = 1990'S

2ND NUMBER IS THE SPECIFIC YEAR OF PART, PART INTRODUCTION OR REVISION:
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9


THIRD LETTER IS THE CAR MODEL:
A = FORD (GENERIC) / GALAXIE
C = TRUCK
D = FALCON
E = EXPLORER
F = FOREIGN / TRANS AM RACING
G = COMET (LATER MUSTANG)
H = HOLMAN/MOODY HiPo PART
J = INDUSTRIAL
L = N/A
M = MERCURY
N = N/A
O = FAIRLANE (LATER TORINO)
P = AUT0LITE (LATER MOTORCRAFT)
Q = N/A
R = ROTUNDA (GENERIC)
S = THUNDERBIRD
T = TRUCK
U = ECONOLINE/CLUB WAGON VAN
V = LINCOLN
W = COUGAR
Z = MUSTANG


THE FOURTH LETTER IS THE PART TYPE:
A = CHASSIS
B = BODY
D = N/A
E = ENGINE
F = ENGINE ACCESSORIES
J = AUTOLITE
M = HOLMAN MOODY
P = AUTO TRANNY
R = MANUAL TRANNY
S = N/A
U = N/A
W = AXLE
X = MUSCLE CAR PARTS
X = LINCOLN / MERCURY SERVICE PARTS
Z = SERVICE PARTS

Here are the gears.

Here are the gears.
.........C4............C6...........AOD....AODE-W/4R70W
Lo 2.46 2.75...2.46 2.72......2.40..........2.84
2 1.46 1.57...1.46 1.54......1.47..........1.55
3 1.00 1.00...1.00 1.00......1.00..........1.00
4 ...................................0.67..........0 .70

ok its going to be a summtimes driver just to like car shows and when i want to play. Its going to manily going to be a car show car. Putting a 351 Dartarow block bored to, i cant remember what the 351 can be bored to. but forged pistons, and rods, a good cam shaft and crank(any suggestions) GT40x turboswirl aluminum heads, a good intake manfold, a big fuel pump and big fuel injectors, 75mm tb and egr, a big radiator, a electric water pump, fuel rails and adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and to top it off a procharger Stage II with a D-1 3 core intercooled running like 8 to 10 Psi when just driving on the street to like 15 to 20 psi when racing. and i dont know about the nos i dont think im going to mess with that just yet, any thing i forgot let me know.
and what about the rear end. and dont remmeber what the gears mean is it the higher the numbers the the better top end you have and the smaller the gears the quicker you will be in the 1/4 of a mile.

Not to be a jerk, but you need to go and do some research. You need to learn a lot more before you ever try for that kind of power level. Its a lot more indepth than just throwing parts that you have heard or read about together, and hoping for the best.

well im going to be getting a shop to put all the internals in like pistons camshaft crankshaft shit like that and i can put the rest on i would think, i took apart my 302 i have now.

were u able to put it back together? HAHAAHAHAHA jk

how much money do u have for this?

were u able to put it back together? HAHAAHAHAHA jk

That was uncalled for!

well about 15,000 or so mabe more

well im going to be getting a shop to put all the internals in like pistons camshaft crankshaft shit like that and i can put the rest on i would think, i took apart my 302 i have now.

The taller the gear (numerical smaller) will get you better 0-60ft times, but you have to have the torque to push the car, and it will also make the car faster on the top end as well. Torque is a great thing:)

You want GT40 heads, wtf? If you are going to keep the 351w displacement go with 205s, Canfield, Trick Flow, but not a set of GT40s. Talk about bottle neckin'.

PSi means nothing, as we have discussed this in the past.

Get a little more specific on what you want, its too vague. For someone that wants a 1000hp, you're not even close to getting that with those items you have mentioned.

How are you going to tune it? What are the cam specs, comp ratio, gears, exhaust system, injectors, intake, tires, suspension, cage, safety equipment, brakes, fuel lines, etc.

What trap speed are you gonna be lookin for?

When you say that you want a 1000hp, that just shows you need to learn a lot more than what you all ready know.

Do you have any idea of how much all that will cost? You're lookin around $15000 just in the driveline, and tunning the thing. And if you have to have someone else do the work, its gonna go up from there.

Like I said, I am not tryin to be a jerk, I just want you to do some more research, and learn a lot more before attempting those type of power goals. If I was your age, and built the car you want, I would not be typing this right now :2cents:

i did not say i wanted 1000hp just a tran that can support what im going to be doing to my car, im not going to be raceing it like drag or any thing just a show car mostly, but i want it to be able to get her done if i want you know what i mean. so im not going to need cage, safety equipment. as for cam shaft what would you use for my set up.

and a shop can tune it right or you can get one of those programers.

i did not say i wanted 1000hp just a tran that can support what im going to be doing to my car, im not going to be raceing it like drag or any thing just a show car mostly, but i want it to be able to get her done if i want you know what i mean. so im not going to need cage, safety equipment. as for cam shaft what would you use for my set up.

You said you need a trans that can handle at least 900-1000hp, which implies what? If we read into that, it means your lookin to try to make over 1000hp, yes?

Have you ever seen a frame twist?

Cam F303, great cam for boost, maybe even the stage one trick flow. Some where around 222/222 520/520 110-114, depending on what you want your idle at. I am not about to go into timing events.

Go to a shop and ask them what they think, then post it up. I am sure I can tell you if they know what they are doing or not. If the shop that tore your 302 apart recommended GT40s, I would not use them any more.

no i took my 302 apart and i dont know how much hp i am going to have i just figured to go with a big trans, rather go big and be safe how much hp do you think ill be putting out if i go with what i have.

A C6 is pretty bullet proof, but thet are also pretty heavy, and use more power.

how much hp you think ill have.

do you think it would be better just to get a 351 like out of jegs or some were, that is all bilt, and put it in, but then what about boost, any one got a web site that has a good engines let me know.

like this one is this a good one, http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=243255&prmenbr=361

what do you think

well im going to be getting a shop to put all the internals in like pistons camshaft crankshaft shit like that and i can put the rest on i would think, i took apart my 302 i have now.


The Dart block you showed is a good piece of Iron. I would go with the 9.5 inch deck height and special order everything to go with it.
I don't remember the part number but I think DART makes a 351 based small block 9.5 that with the proper bore and stroke you can pull 460 CI out of it. You may even want to go with the aluminum block.

900 to 1000 HP is some serious sxoxq@t.

The chassis, suspension, drive line rear end and basicly everything else is going to have to be built like a tank.

A 1000 HP motor in a stock chassis will twist the frame into a pretzel if the drive line and the rearend can handle the torque.

If you are building a 900 to a 1000 HP motor and the only thing you've done is take apart your 302, I think you need to have a shop build the whole thing and Mabeeee you put it in.

The other aspect of this type of project is CASH!! How much of it do you have?
I hope you have some deep pockets.

1000 HP is going to cost you $20k to $25K minimum. Then the body, chassis suspension and driveline are all going to have to be built to handle that much HP. That's another $25k at least.

Now you can go the cheap route and not do it the right way. It will last for a couple months and you will break a bunch of stuff and it will sit in your garage for awhile.


If you have the money to build that kind of car, and you don't have a lot of experience doing it, my suggestion is find you a serious performance shop and have them build the whole car from top to bottom.

What you are talking about is some major work.
That doesn't come cheap!!

The best of luck!!!

Kent Mathew
Dallas, TX

I would not go over say a 393 if you choose a stroker. Side load will be an engine killer.

Get yourself an old 69-74 351w block with a forged rotating assembly, a good set of heads and intake, boost w/ aftercooler, aeromotive a1000, 42lbs injectors, tweecer r/t, wolfe suspension, and be done with it.

http://www.crateengine.net/351393.html i found this one, is this engine any good, could i add bost after getting the forged pistons, and how much boost would be safe.


or how about this one, http://chevystreetperformance.com/351_390efi.htm

i like this one a lot better they bild the hole thing, and i can get it custom to what i want, i tell them what i want and i get it.

http://www.crateengine.net/351393.html i found this one, is this engine any good, could i add bost after getting the forged pistons, and how much boost would be safe.


or how about this one, http://chevystreetperformance.com/351_390efi.htm

i like this one a lot better they bild the hole thing, and i can get it custom to what i want, i tell them what i want and i get it.

and what is a bore for a 351 a safe one what size i mean,

and what is a bore for a 351 a safe one what size i mean,


Not over 30 on a street engine.

so 30 and what about those engines is that a good price and shit. witch block is better, and can handle a supercharger.

I would go with this one http://www.crateengine.net/351393.html

with the KB dished, and run a 58cc head for a 9:1

ok so the kB dished pistons, at 58cc 9.0:0. and i should get the H-beam super racing rods, wich heads should i get then, i was thinking of the twisted edge ones, and what about the camshaft the Hydraulic or the roller

ok so the kB dished pistons, at 58cc 9.0:0. and i should get the H-beam super racing rods, wich heads should i get then, i was thinking of the twisted edge ones, and what about the camshaft the Hydraulic or the roller

This is where you need to research :)

H-beams are not a must.

TFS heads are very good, so are Canfield, and AFR 205s

If you go over 6500 rpms you need a solid.

there not a must, what if i supercharger it, wich is what i want to do.

It comes with forged I-beams right? I have seen the stock I-beams handle over 650hp on the older 351w.

ok what about the cam shaft.

Are you going with a 393?

If so, they can support a bigger cam.

What do you want the engine to do? idle, power band, trap speed, streetabilty, etc.

something with good idle, but has a lot of power, and i can super charger it, its going to be mainly a summer car\show car, but i also wont to be able to race it and win if i wanted to, like street race fucking rice burners and crush them. is the 391 the same size as the 351 just bored out right,

TFS Stage 2

:rofl:

:rofl:

I know :uhoh:

it does not come with that one,

Cam Kits - High Performance True Roller Timing Set with:
Custom Schneider Hardened Steel Billet Hydraulic or Solid Cam
Dyno-Designed for Stroker Applications. Add...... $275
Custom Schneider Hardened Steel Billet Roller Cam Dyno-Designed for Stroker
Applications. Add...... $349

is it hard to install a cam shaft.

How high do you want to spin it? I say go roller hydro, that is what I am using. Solids you have to adjust ever 1000 miles or so.

No, its easy to install a cam. Anything is easy if you have done enough times :)

If its a custom, you should be good to go.

your saying the Hydraulic one that is 275

see i dont know much about the cam shaft part of the engine or the lifts and the compresion riso. that is the only thing i dont know about in engines.

that is the only thing i dont know about in engines.

Son, there is still a lot that I do not know about engines.

Son, there is still a lot that I do not know about engines.



I learn somethin new everyday!!!!!

me to, what is the diference on Hydraulic and roller cam shaft.

Ugh I can't believe I'm in here..... anyway....

Camshafts for Dummies:

Roller or Flat means what kinda lifters is it using, roller lifters or flat lifters. Flat lifters are just that flat metal bottoms against the cam lobes, rollers are again just that rollers along the cam lobes.

Hydrualic or Solid: Both Flat or Roller cams(lifters) can come in both of these forms. Hydrualic lifters use engine oil to in the simplest description of terms act as a shock absorber. Solid lifters wether roller or flat are just a solid roller with no hydraulics to dampen the valvetrain.

Notes:

Cams and lifters must match: Solid roller cam wit solid roller lifters. Flat hydraulic cam wit flat hydraulic lifters, etc..,

Blocks must match Cam: Block must come set-up from the factory for roller camshaft. If not your, options are to machine it for a roller camshaft set-up or use a retrofit set-up if available.

Applications: If someone else wants to even begin to open that can of worms go ahead.

If you go over 6500 rpms you need a solid.

He doesn't need a solid, it just starts to get beneficial at that point. A comp 282HR will hold onto power to about 7 grand at which point it will start to float the valves,

pimpdaddy: Maybe think about like a stock 302 with some flows and a CAI. Judging from the fact that all you want this car to do is "beat up ricers on the street" and considering you've never had a fast car before and sound quite immature, all you're going to do with a 1000 horsepower blown car is hurt/kill yourself or someone else. To give you an idea of just how much power 1000 HP is, imagine how long it takes for your 5.0 to get to 130 MPH. A 1000 HP fox will spin street tires like you're driving on ice to 130 MPH.

On my 69 block, I am running a set of Isky linked bar roller lifters, new they run $600 and that is at good price.

Since he is getting a package deal, the guys setting his engine up should know.

He doesn't need a solid, it just starts to get beneficial at that point. A comp 282HR will hold onto power to about 7 grand at which point it will start to float the valves,



Agreed, just telling him his options :)

On my 69 block, I am running a set of Isky linked bar roller lifters, new they run $600 and that is at good price.

Since he is getting a package deal, the guys setting his engine up should know.

That's not so bad, the Shubeck Roller-X's in a buddies turbo motor just set him back, get this, a grand. They eliminate any bearings inside the lifter and have it ride on a cushion of oil. They're supposed to be the best and eliminate lifter failure, so I sure hope so!