desperately in need of your help

Hi Guys

I have a 1995 towncar sig. my problem is that my car keeps on overheating with or without the ac on. I took it for a new fan clutch and a new thermostat (electric fan works fine) coolant is at the appropriate level. also replace the coolant base cap, water pump working fine.

The temp gauage always stopped at midlevel, but now it goes to the top and the alarm sounds. The car is now running without the thermostat and I still have the same problem.

Also, my Antilock brake system lights up after reaching 14mph

Any ideas, it is time for a new car ??? (I would hate to give my hubby the bad news cause we love our car)

Thanks guys

how long does it take for the guage to go up? is the engine really overheating or is it just telling you that? the biggest prob with that 4.6 was the intake cross-over tube cracking behind the alternator. is it making a hissing noise ?

Hi thanks for your reply

well the gauge tells me it heated but I don't see any smoke or anything, also there is no hissing sound.

Sounds like the guage sender is bad.. indicating overheating, yet it's not really overheating..

Is there also solid lines at the top or bottom of the guage readout? That may indicate a short or disconnected condition.

Like hazzzmattt asked, how long does it take for the guage to read HOT?

If it's reading hot immediately, and you know damn well the engine is cold, the guage sender is at fault.

If it takes some time, several minutes, to reach the center (normal) position, then keeps progressively climbing hotter, and hotter....
that would be another problem.

As for the ABS system, the warning off till 14mpg usually diagnoses to a bad sensor at one of the wheels, or a corroded connector to one of the wheel sensors.

Most everyone with this problem goes through ALL the normal testing, sensor resistance, etc with no results. Then they go back to the rule of thumb, clean the connectors, and the problem goes away.

Keep in mind, it takes a $6k to $12k tester connected to read the fault codes from the ABS system, the shops charge over $100 just to connect the machine, that's why most of us go through this trial and error procedure with our ABS problems.

Questions for you:
How many miles on your TC?
Do you still have the 100% plastic intake manifold?
Are your rear ashtray lids open always?

:) :) :) :)

Hi guys
my tc has 80,000 miles and still has the 100% plastic intake manifold, and the ashtrays are always closed.

the solid lines are at the very top after about 30mins and the alarm sounds .

what do you suggest? Really appreciate your help.

The solid lines are at the very top after about 30mins and the alarm sounds .
what do you suggest? Really appreciate your help.

The "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor" is definately bad. The dual bars indicate that scanerio, see below.

The audible warnings after "30 min" are a reaction from the faulty guage reading.

Your car is not actually overheating, so have the sensor replaced and the guage will return to normal operation.

Here's the text from the manual on that:

* Coolant Temperature Indication System, Engine
* Coolant Temperature Gauge, Engine

The engine coolant temperature gauge has the following features:

This gauge is identified by a thermometer symbol.

-- H means high temperature.

-- C means low temperature

-- NORMAL means normal temperature.

This gauge indicates the engine coolant temperature based on an operating resistance range from the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor)(13,000 ohms maximum to 200 ohms minimum, from low to high temperature, where resistances above 13,000 ohms indicate temperatures below the range of the gauge).

The number of bars lit increases as the engine warms up (from the lowest bar into the normal operating region).

It is acceptable under certain driving conditions, such as heavy traffic or stop-and-go driving in hot weather, for the bar to point to the top of the normal region.


Diagnostic Bars

Diagnostic bars on this gauge indicate that the resistance of engine coolant temperature sensor is lower than the operating resistance range (less than 200 ohms).

When the top two and bottom two bars appear on the engine coolant temperature gauge, a short circuit may be present. Testing procedures are outlined seperately, lemme know if you'd rather go throough all that.

When the bottom bar and the thermometer and TEMP displays appear, an open circuit may be present.


High Coolant Temperature Warning

When the engine coolant is overheating:

The bars in the engine coolant temperature gauge rise above the normal range.

The temperature symbol flashes.

A tone sounds every five seconds to alert the driver.


Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor

* Engine coolant temperature sensor:

Is mounted into the engine intake manifold.

Sends a signal sent to electronic instrument cluster which varies with the resistance of engine coolant temperature sensor relative to the engine coolant temperature.

* My tc has 80,000 miles and still has the 100% plastic intake manifold..

Rosi614,
You're way overdue, having your 100% plastic (composite) Intake Manifold blow out.

This almost always happens (after 40k miles) during hard acceleration, or wide open throttle (WOT) like when you try to pass someone.

It's extremely embarassing (while trying to pass) and all of a sudden coolant dumps all over your engine throwing clouds of steam visable for miles. Then, your stuck on the side of the road with no coolant in the engine or radiator.

If you drive like a grandma, you're chances are better for this engineering nightmare to last a bit longer (80k Wow!) however, keep in mind when it does blow, your stranded.

Anyone with a few 100 bucks and basic tools can swap the old POS for a re-engineered Intake that includes an aluminum coolant crossover where it was known to blow. Shops charge $900 to $1500 for the job.

Thanks for all your help !!! And by the way I do drive like grandma (lol)