93 SHO loose steering

I'm looking at a '93 SHO to buy and noticed the steering was, imho, incredibly loose on a test drive. I could move the wheel back & forth very easily w/no tire movement. There aren't any fluid leaks and it doesn't seem to make any noise when turning. Mechanically it seems to be in good shape (cosmetics are another story).

I'm not too familiar w/steering problems and have read most of the rack & pinnion threads but none describe loose steering. At 146K and $1500, am I looking at a hefty repair bill for a new rack/ps pump if I end up taking it? Thoughts, suggestions?

TIA

MTX or ATX? Power steering pumps are a since in the ATX (since the engine moved forward about 5-6" more), takes about an hour to do and cost ~$150. Steering rack? I've never done that and I know they are ~$200.

If I were you I wouldn't buy this car..I'm speaking from experience. I use to have a '93 SHO...They are very nice cars and have a lot of power if you want that kind of thing...but if you need to buy parts for it your looking to spend quite a bit

you said you could move the steering wheel very easily with any wheel travel. make sure the steering coupler is intact and the U joint is tight. In the engine compartment, look at the steering column you should find a U-joint check for play by turning the shaft by hand, make sure the steering wheel lock is off by turning the key. Also inspect the coupler located where the ps rack and steering shaft meet. The rubber bushing deteriorate over time. Parts are available at autozone and the like.

Rack and pinion sounds like the problem. I own one and bought a new one for 100 buks when i replaced the motor... It was bad right out of the box. dont buy the cheap one. its not a real easy job. i still havent fixed mine yet, it still turns!


I'm looking at a '93 SHO to buy and noticed the steering was, imho, incredibly loose on a test drive. I could move the wheel back & forth very easily w/no tire movement. There aren't any fluid leaks and it doesn't seem to make any noise when turning. Mechanically it seems to be in good shape (cosmetics are another story).

I'm not too familiar w/steering problems and have read most of the rack & pinnion threads but none describe loose steering. At 146K and $1500, am I looking at a hefty repair bill for a new rack/ps pump if I end up taking it? Thoughts, suggestions?

TIA

I just bought a 92 taurus a couple of months ago with the same problem and when it got inspected i was told i had a bad tie rod. The tie rod might be the problem because after i got a new tie rod the steering was tighter but i think now my alignment is off. It should cost around 150 for parts and labor for the tie rod

glad that's all that it was. still inspect the entire steering system. also remember this point, if the outer tie ends were bad check the inner one for play also. you said you changed the outer ones on the new one and not the old one right? you can do it yourself, get a haynes manual and the ends from autozone. the ends should be about $10 each and the book is <$20. Remember this tip if you do them yourself, use white out or paint, etc to mark the threads on the rod before loosening the end so you can put the new end on at the same thread position. then when you are done get the allignment. you can find some shops that will charge as low as $30 for an allignment. although 150 isn't bad for less headaches.

OK, the verdict is in.... the inner tie rod ends are loose. Not as major as a problem w/the rack thankfully. I'd never really had this kind of problem before so I'm learning and appreciate all the insight you have provided.

Oh, and the right wheel bearing is loose which is what was causing a slight kick. Seems it's a sealed unit too. I think I'm beginning to understand just how expensive this SHO is gonna be. But, it's one of those cars that you fall in love with right away. Looks like I'm gonna get some good use outta the service manuals!

the wheel bearing are sealed and you need some sort of press to remove and replace them. as for the inner ends they can be tough to change it's quite a bit of work and imo it's better to buy a rebuilt unit. look at your chilton manual and you'll understand the work involved.