cam sensor
TERRAPINFLYER
08-16-2005, 09:54 AM
I have a 95 wagon. The check engine light came on and I had the car flashed and it turned out to be the cam sensor. My mechanic said it was a $400 to $500 job. Can anyone help me and let me know if this really is a reasonable price, second is will it damage the car, and third is this a job that with the right information I can repair myself. Thank You.
mcconnc
08-16-2005, 12:58 PM
I had same problem w/ my '98 Taurus SE. The cam sensor is only like $20, w/ approx 1 hour of labor to install. Total job is roughly $100 just to replace cam sensor. I had this done, the engine code was PO340.
Your mechanic's quote of $400-500 is way too high just for a cam sensor. If it is the OEM distributor and synchronizer, which is some part that the cam sensor works with, you're looking more around $300 (which includes replacing the cam sensor). I made the mistake of not having that done when in fact that really was the problem w/ my Taurus. The code PO340 came back on a few months later, and it cost me $265 at AAMCO to replace the OEM dist along w/ the cam sensor for a second time. If the distributor is bad, it will keep damaging the cam sensors, and you'll keep having to replace. If you do not replace the cam sensor or the component parts near it if they are bad, the car will ultimately break down.
I guess if you are mechanically inclined, you can take a shot at fixing it yourself. You need a special tool though to properly replace the cam sensor.
Your mechanic's quote of $400-500 is way too high just for a cam sensor. If it is the OEM distributor and synchronizer, which is some part that the cam sensor works with, you're looking more around $300 (which includes replacing the cam sensor). I made the mistake of not having that done when in fact that really was the problem w/ my Taurus. The code PO340 came back on a few months later, and it cost me $265 at AAMCO to replace the OEM dist along w/ the cam sensor for a second time. If the distributor is bad, it will keep damaging the cam sensors, and you'll keep having to replace. If you do not replace the cam sensor or the component parts near it if they are bad, the car will ultimately break down.
I guess if you are mechanically inclined, you can take a shot at fixing it yourself. You need a special tool though to properly replace the cam sensor.
conceptzj
09-14-2005, 05:03 PM
I have the same problem with my 97 Tauras, do you still have the part numbers available. I would like to save the money and replace the syncronizer and cam sensory myself. Thanks very much.
Mike
Mike
TomV
09-15-2005, 11:30 AM
Did you guys read a previous post (just a day ago?) from kg49erfan? I went through a detailed response that should help you determine if you can do the repair or not. The parts alone are $200. The labor could take from 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on the condition of the synchronizer. Around here the labor rates are about $80 per hour, so $400 or so for the job is not unreasonable.
I suggest that you plan to take an hour to get to the sensor and take it off. If you determine the condition of the synchronizer is good (no bent vane) then you can just put on the new sensor and you are done.
If the vane is bent then you must replace the synchronizer. If you can determine the position of the vane relative to the housing, then you can follow the directions in my previous post to put in a new one. If you decide to do that then go a Ford/Merc dealer to get the part. If you cannot reliably determine the vane position relative to the housing then I suggest paying the shop to do the repair for you.
I suggest that you plan to take an hour to get to the sensor and take it off. If you determine the condition of the synchronizer is good (no bent vane) then you can just put on the new sensor and you are done.
If the vane is bent then you must replace the synchronizer. If you can determine the position of the vane relative to the housing, then you can follow the directions in my previous post to put in a new one. If you decide to do that then go a Ford/Merc dealer to get the part. If you cannot reliably determine the vane position relative to the housing then I suggest paying the shop to do the repair for you.
wafrederick
09-17-2005, 01:11 PM
There is a special tool to set the synchronizer.If you do not use the special tool,car will not run right.
TomV
09-18-2005, 01:00 AM
There is a special tool to set the synchronizer.If you do not use the special tool,car will not run right.
The alignment tool is a jig that sets the synchronizer vane to a particular position relative to the housing. This position is where the vane first cuts through the magnetic field of the magnet in the sensor during its rotation. An electrical pulse is delivered from the sensor to a computer. This tool assumes that piston #1 is set to top dead center. The tool is required when the engine is first built. Once the vane position relative to the housing is established with the tool, the synchonizer can be replaced without the tool so long as the vane position relative to the housing is maintained. That is what my instructions require. If you cannot determine the vane position before removing the synchronizer, then get the tool and follow the specific shop manual instructions or have a shop do it.
The vane rotates a full circle through the firing of all six pistons. The order is 1-4-2-5-3-6. The vane is initially set to its position using the tool when #1 is at TDC. When #5 is at TDC then the vane has rotated a half circle. If the car was stopped at this position, then you can take off the sensor and mark the relative vane position. If you take off the synchronizer from the engine, you can easily rotate the shaft. If you place the vane back to its original postion relative to the housing, per the marks on the housing, then you can reinsert the assembly back into the engine and it will remain synchronized with the cam shaft as though nothing happened.
The alignment tool is a jig that sets the synchronizer vane to a particular position relative to the housing. This position is where the vane first cuts through the magnetic field of the magnet in the sensor during its rotation. An electrical pulse is delivered from the sensor to a computer. This tool assumes that piston #1 is set to top dead center. The tool is required when the engine is first built. Once the vane position relative to the housing is established with the tool, the synchonizer can be replaced without the tool so long as the vane position relative to the housing is maintained. That is what my instructions require. If you cannot determine the vane position before removing the synchronizer, then get the tool and follow the specific shop manual instructions or have a shop do it.
The vane rotates a full circle through the firing of all six pistons. The order is 1-4-2-5-3-6. The vane is initially set to its position using the tool when #1 is at TDC. When #5 is at TDC then the vane has rotated a half circle. If the car was stopped at this position, then you can take off the sensor and mark the relative vane position. If you take off the synchronizer from the engine, you can easily rotate the shaft. If you place the vane back to its original postion relative to the housing, per the marks on the housing, then you can reinsert the assembly back into the engine and it will remain synchronized with the cam shaft as though nothing happened.
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