modifications required for fwd and rwd conversions

I would like to get a toyota corolla and was wondering a few things about converting: 1) a fwd engine to fit rwd car, and 2) modifying a fwd car for rwd.

First, i can get a donor rwd '87 corolla (not sure about condition, if it's in good enough condition ill use this car if not ill get another) for parts like rear diff, engine, tranny, etc. and i was wondering what modifications would go into making a later model corolla (88 or later) into rwd. My list so far is: engine, rwd tranny, rear dif, drivetrain, possibly engine mounts, radiator and cooling, fuel system, exhaust, intake, suspension (to include rear diff and exclude fwd stuff, wondering if rwd corolla suspension will fit), and probably mounting brackets for these things.

Now, if the rwd corolla is in good enough condition (not too much frame/body rust, tranny useable, suspension useable, etc) i would like to see if i could use a fwd engine (the 20 valve 91-95 engine) and use a rwd tranny (i heard you can use the K50 tranny for any 4ag engine) and, if need be, a custom or aftermarket drivetrain. i figure i would probably need some custom mounting brackets but i don't see any other issue.

i got some of this info from http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8422/4age.htm check it out and give me your oppinion.

I don't just want this thread to be about the corolla, i'd obviously like to figure out how to do this on a corolla, but i'd like it to be a general guide to people who want to convert a fwd car to rwd or a fwd engine to rwd.

Dependind on how much torque you want the engine to have, it would be worthwhile to brace the unibody a bit...the original chassis was not designed to twist with any kind of torque that it might see when it becomes RWD, but then again, I'm not sure how much torque you're planning on putting out. Usually, however, and FWD to RWD conversion involves some sort of chassis stiffeners.

you are going to have to cut a drive train tunnel right down the middle of your car.

While your plan is very ambitious and that is admirable i truly dont think that it would end up working out for you. I hate saying that because everyone on every forum you go to will tell you (no matter what new idea you are trying to accomplish) that it just wont work or that it will cost too much money. In this case i will have to say that it probably just wouldnt work or it would cost too much money.

If i were you i would build that AE86 and make a project out of fitting a newer (maybe 2zzge) engine into that chassis. Or maybe go a road that is even less traveled and try to put in a rotary.

It only gets expensive when you have someone else do it- or you dont know what your doing. Well... ok it can get expensive if it you let it.

Basically, an engine is an engine- it doesnt know where its mounted (kinda like your penis.. it doesnt know its your hand insted of a vagina). The main differnce is going to the the chassis, floorpan, suspension, and transmission and mentioned above.

so what i've gotten so far is that i'll have to do chasis modifications for 1) the drivetrain, tranny and rear end to fit and 2) to strenthen it if i'm going to run alot of torque. I'll have to find a tranny that bolts up the the engine and probably fabricate mounts for the engine and definately for the tranny (as i said i heard the k50 works on all 4ag engines). get a suspension system that fits the car or get one that fits the rear end and modify the car. Get a cooling system that fits in the engine compartment and works with the newer engine. ill have to get a new exhaust system (junkyard to start with) to fit the engine (the stock wont work because fwd cars usually use transvers wheras rwd use the other way). i will probably do the fabrication myself with the help of people (i plan to go to georgian college in mechanical engineering - automotive option so ill probably have the facilities to do all the fabrication ill need) so it will be very cheap or free (not counting the cost of sheet metal, tubes, etc). The suspension will start off as a junkyard (good condition though) setup just to get it started and then upgrade to a performance setup. tranny, rearend, will be used from a desent parts car, driveshaft will probably have to be custom.

So how about parts cost and stuff, i think that will probably be useful in determining if this project is worth doing or if i should go the normal way and get a rwd car.

I'd like for someone to give some prices for the following things in good condition:
Engine (20 valve 4ag, probably used):
Tranny (K-50, probably used):
suspension (junkyard or used from rwd corolla):
rear end (junkyard or used from rwd corolla):
drivetrain (custom made, anyone know where to get this done in canada):
exhaust system (really only need headers if the rest bolts up the the stock on without much modifications) (junkyard from rwd corolla):

Thanks for your help so far.

Dont find a suspension that fits, find one that works with all the geometry.

one of the easiest ways to do a build of this level might be to find an entire front clip from any donor car and put it in the back of the recipient car. this would take care of your engine/drivetrain problem as well as the suspension prob. not to mention it would be a very well balanced car.

i drive an mr2 so i am partial to mid engine rear drive cars.

I hate to bring this up cause i hate the show but there was an episode of tuner transformation where they made a tercel into a rear drive drift car. if you could get a copy of that taping or maybe the dvd for that season ill but that might answer a lot of your questions.

cool, thanks. yeah that show's kinda boring and they dont do much different each show. every show starts off with well what are we gonna do with this car then they end up doing intake exhaust, sometimes a supercharger or turbo upgrade (not a whole kit, just an upgrade from stock) then they do suspension and visuals. plus the announcer sucks, his voice is all monotone and lazy sounding.

It can be done if done carefully. The unibody car relies on rather complex (and wonderful) geometric stampings for strength instead of a full frame like older cars. Cutting the wrong panel might cause a rather profound weakness. I like the idea of bolting in a subframe for the front suspension and engine. Then you aren't subtracting, just adding which can almost always help. Cut the tunnel for the driveshaft and hump for the tranny and you're almost home.

You may also find some help with the corvette driveline setup from the C5/C6. They use a live driveshaft coupled to a rear transaxle. As a bolt-in unit, you would get the benefit of less stuff up front to fit in the small compartment, a smaller driveshaft hump since you don't have to make it big enough for a swinging shaft, and more weight in the back; not to mention a pre-engineered independent rear suspension. You would also have a remotely operated shift mechanism that might be easier to adapt where you want it instead of a fixed position shifter like on a traditional tranny.

Another option would be to place a FWD transaxle in the rear of the car. It would require more cutting (always a dangerous) and some more fabrication, but it could prove a suitable alternative. You could then move things like the battery, fuel tank, and other items toward the front. Imagine shocking your friends when you open the hood and there is just a nicely fabricated trunk.

^^ this is what I'm fixing to attempt on one of my projects, relocating the entire fwd motor and transaxel to the rear of the car. Also adding a full tube chassis/cage in the process to eliminate the hazard of chopping up the unibody... oh yeah and get rid of flex and maby help save my life.