1999 Silhouette Drvr window tilts
robafen
08-15-2005, 07:36 PM
Greetings,
My 1999 Silohuette drivers power window falls forward as it rises and then stops. It is certainly coming out of the channel. I suspect a clip or some sort of guide broke or fell out.
Any suggestions
My 1999 Silohuette drivers power window falls forward as it rises and then stops. It is certainly coming out of the channel. I suspect a clip or some sort of guide broke or fell out.
Any suggestions
GregA
08-15-2005, 08:08 PM
Greetings,
My 1999 Silohuette drivers power window falls forward as it rises and then stops. It is certainly coming out of the channel. I suspect a clip or some sort of guide broke or fell out.
Any suggestions
I had a similar problem with my 2001 Venture. I don't know if it is the exact same, but you can read about it at the link below.
Adjust Driver Side Window (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/venture-repair-drivers-side-power-window.html)
Take Care,
My 1999 Silohuette drivers power window falls forward as it rises and then stops. It is certainly coming out of the channel. I suspect a clip or some sort of guide broke or fell out.
Any suggestions
I had a similar problem with my 2001 Venture. I don't know if it is the exact same, but you can read about it at the link below.
Adjust Driver Side Window (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/venture-repair-drivers-side-power-window.html)
Take Care,
robafen
08-17-2005, 06:10 PM
I had a similar problem with my 2001 Venture. I don't know if it is the exact same, but you can read about it at the link below.
Adjust Driver Side Window (http://www.links-to-golf.com/van/venture-repair-drivers-side-power-window.html)
Take Care,
Hello,
Thanks for the suggestion but alas, that is not the case.
All bolts are tight
Still trying to figure it out.
Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Scott
Adjust Driver Side Window (http://www.links-to-golf.com/van/venture-repair-drivers-side-power-window.html)
Take Care,
Hello,
Thanks for the suggestion but alas, that is not the case.
All bolts are tight
Still trying to figure it out.
Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Scott
GregA
08-17-2005, 08:11 PM
Hello,
Thanks for the suggestion but alas, that is not the case.
All bolts are tight
Still trying to figure it out.
Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Scott
Scott,
Did you get your hand in there and feel the vertical rail that the window slides in (toward the front of the door)?
On mine, the bolt seemed tight at first too. But it came loose very easily and that's when I slid the front rail toward the back of the door and tightened to bolt back down. Straightened right up.
There is another bolt that holds the other end of the rail - I think it is right next to the speaker. You might want to check that one too.
I also put some lubricant in there (white grease) while I was messing with it. I basically put it on all the parts that move.
Take Care,
Thanks for the suggestion but alas, that is not the case.
All bolts are tight
Still trying to figure it out.
Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Scott
Scott,
Did you get your hand in there and feel the vertical rail that the window slides in (toward the front of the door)?
On mine, the bolt seemed tight at first too. But it came loose very easily and that's when I slid the front rail toward the back of the door and tightened to bolt back down. Straightened right up.
There is another bolt that holds the other end of the rail - I think it is right next to the speaker. You might want to check that one too.
I also put some lubricant in there (white grease) while I was messing with it. I basically put it on all the parts that move.
Take Care,
robafen
08-24-2005, 07:09 PM
Greg,
There is a black plastic bar about midway down the door.
A stud with a nut is protruding. There was paint on it and I noticed the paint marks did not line up. I lined them up and now the window works fine.
Thanks for trying
SCott
Scott,
Did you get your hand in there and feel the vertical rail that the window slides in (toward the front of the door)?
On mine, the bolt seemed tight at first too. But it came loose very easily and that's when I slid the front rail toward the back of the door and tightened to bolt back down. Straightened right up.
There is another bolt that holds the other end of the rail - I think it is right next to the speaker. You might want to check that one too.
I also put some lubricant in there (white grease) while I was messing with it. I basically put it on all the parts that move.
Take Care,
There is a black plastic bar about midway down the door.
A stud with a nut is protruding. There was paint on it and I noticed the paint marks did not line up. I lined them up and now the window works fine.
Thanks for trying
SCott
Scott,
Did you get your hand in there and feel the vertical rail that the window slides in (toward the front of the door)?
On mine, the bolt seemed tight at first too. But it came loose very easily and that's when I slid the front rail toward the back of the door and tightened to bolt back down. Straightened right up.
There is another bolt that holds the other end of the rail - I think it is right next to the speaker. You might want to check that one too.
I also put some lubricant in there (white grease) while I was messing with it. I basically put it on all the parts that move.
Take Care,
tomdtinker
09-12-2005, 04:54 PM
Well since the responders to this msg have figured out how to the inner panel off without destroying the plastic pegs, a flat bar works nicely.
Once you're in the inner door, you'll notice that the forward pivort point especially in the midway position (going up) does not porperly align.
If all the previous suggestions have failed to give satisfactory results,
you have no choice but to replace the track that holds the window itself.
It is worn beyond repair. Failure to replace the track will result in overloading the motor and cause motor failure. The colder the weather the sooner this will occur. In the interium, assist the window with your hand while it's going up while your looking for a new part.
It's always at it's worst when you're at a toll.
Once you're in the inner door, you'll notice that the forward pivort point especially in the midway position (going up) does not porperly align.
If all the previous suggestions have failed to give satisfactory results,
you have no choice but to replace the track that holds the window itself.
It is worn beyond repair. Failure to replace the track will result in overloading the motor and cause motor failure. The colder the weather the sooner this will occur. In the interium, assist the window with your hand while it's going up while your looking for a new part.
It's always at it's worst when you're at a toll.
tomdtinker
09-12-2005, 05:06 PM
1999 olds silhouette
power door locks w/o remote
key will lock and unlock all door and hatch
internal switches do not work
I have manuals for diagnosing all problems relating to this and everything points to BCM
(body control module)
all fuses and swithes are functioning properly
Where is the BCM and how can it be tested for proper functioning?
If the BCM has stb (*&$^% the bed) is this a dealer only item?
Any help will be appreciated
power door locks w/o remote
key will lock and unlock all door and hatch
internal switches do not work
I have manuals for diagnosing all problems relating to this and everything points to BCM
(body control module)
all fuses and swithes are functioning properly
Where is the BCM and how can it be tested for proper functioning?
If the BCM has stb (*&$^% the bed) is this a dealer only item?
Any help will be appreciated
lhenk
12-25-2005, 05:18 PM
Greetings,
My 1999 Silohuette drivers power window falls forward as it rises and then stops. It is certainly coming out of the channel. I suspect a clip or some sort of guide broke or fell out.
Any suggestions
I had the same problem, my mechanic quoted me $500 to fix. I guess he assumed bad motor.
A very small portion of the weather stripping was pulled out at the corner where the mirror is. This was causing the window to bind just enough that after many times up and down (and my wife not recognizing that it was binding) that it ended up bending one of the flat arms of the sissor style raising bracket. I tried to bend it back into shape but that didn't really work. I ended up greasing it were it was shinny from rubbing when the window goes up. I also sprayed silicone lub in the track as described above. I also tucked in the small portion of the weather stripping back behind the plastic mirror mounting base. Everything works good now.
A good think to know when you try to remove the door panel is this. The plastic plate that the window switches and power mirror button are mounted on comes out to reveal the 2nd lag bolt that holds the door pannel in place. Take a putty knife and run it under this plate at the front where the power mirror knob is located. You will press in a metal tab that will allow the plate with the swithes to pop right out. Disconnect the switches and you will see the bolt. Remove that bolt (10mm) then use a flat bar as described above to pop the door panel the rest of the way off.
It took me about an hour to figure this out but I saved $500.
My 1999 Silohuette drivers power window falls forward as it rises and then stops. It is certainly coming out of the channel. I suspect a clip or some sort of guide broke or fell out.
Any suggestions
I had the same problem, my mechanic quoted me $500 to fix. I guess he assumed bad motor.
A very small portion of the weather stripping was pulled out at the corner where the mirror is. This was causing the window to bind just enough that after many times up and down (and my wife not recognizing that it was binding) that it ended up bending one of the flat arms of the sissor style raising bracket. I tried to bend it back into shape but that didn't really work. I ended up greasing it were it was shinny from rubbing when the window goes up. I also sprayed silicone lub in the track as described above. I also tucked in the small portion of the weather stripping back behind the plastic mirror mounting base. Everything works good now.
A good think to know when you try to remove the door panel is this. The plastic plate that the window switches and power mirror button are mounted on comes out to reveal the 2nd lag bolt that holds the door pannel in place. Take a putty knife and run it under this plate at the front where the power mirror knob is located. You will press in a metal tab that will allow the plate with the swithes to pop right out. Disconnect the switches and you will see the bolt. Remove that bolt (10mm) then use a flat bar as described above to pop the door panel the rest of the way off.
It took me about an hour to figure this out but I saved $500.
Baxter Basics
04-10-2007, 07:19 AM
Identical problem.
The window would tip forward.
I pulled the door panel out and the regulator, and found that somebody had been forcing this thing for quite a while.
The UP switch was flaky (is now burned out, I can only jumper the wires to get it to raise), the front adjusting bolt was loose and about 1/4" too low (likely the initial problem), the one scissor arm on the regulator was twisted, and the swaged-fit pivot on the scissor was loose. I had the pivot welded, straightened the arm, put it together and it works fine (except now I need to replace the switch.
Other problems I'm now fixing:
Our rear wiper motor slips - the worm gear is worn. What crap that a $1 plastic gear will nesitate a $___ repair.
Sliding door stops closing and reverses almost every time, unless we help it.
Driver rocker switch unlock does not work, all other switches will lock/unlock.
Passenger mirror will only move vertically, not horizontally. Driver's works fine.
CD player skips badly, when it plays it sounds like a radio slightly off-station.
The window would tip forward.
I pulled the door panel out and the regulator, and found that somebody had been forcing this thing for quite a while.
The UP switch was flaky (is now burned out, I can only jumper the wires to get it to raise), the front adjusting bolt was loose and about 1/4" too low (likely the initial problem), the one scissor arm on the regulator was twisted, and the swaged-fit pivot on the scissor was loose. I had the pivot welded, straightened the arm, put it together and it works fine (except now I need to replace the switch.
Other problems I'm now fixing:
Our rear wiper motor slips - the worm gear is worn. What crap that a $1 plastic gear will nesitate a $___ repair.
Sliding door stops closing and reverses almost every time, unless we help it.
Driver rocker switch unlock does not work, all other switches will lock/unlock.
Passenger mirror will only move vertically, not horizontally. Driver's works fine.
CD player skips badly, when it plays it sounds like a radio slightly off-station.
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