Need directions to install alternator on a 98

Hello all. A friend of mine has asked if I would replace her alternator on her 98 Blazer (4.3). To which I agreed.

I have done such work before, but on Hondas (yes I'm a ricer, but with respect to the domestics - half my home town, and old fraternity, is employed by GM)

So before I start poppin off her alternator and slapping the belt back on, anything GM specific I should know? Is it pretty straight and narrow? Or are there quirks?

I have been searching this forum for about an hour for directions or a link to an online manual, no luck - she doesn't have one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
(We're teachers and a bit leary about spending any kind of money - I will try to convince her to by a Haynes, but it likely won't happen)

-wheel

Should be pretty straight forward, disconnect the positive battery terminal first and start twisting wrenches.

Thanks Rick.

Ans since you're on...are their timing marks on the pulleys? I don't have a light and I'm concerned about screwing up her timing. Not sure how that system is set up on a Blazer. On a Honda, if you fart too hard while shifting gears you screw up the timing.

thanks

Thanks Rick.

Ans since you're on...are their timing marks on the pulleys? I don't have a light and I'm concerned about screwing up her timing. Not sure how that system is set up on a Blazer. On a Honda, if you fart too hard while shifting gears you screw up the timing.

thanks

If all you do is remove the belt to the alternator by loosening the belt tensioner you do not have to worry about screwing up the timing. You might make sure there is a legible belt diagram under the hood somewhere so you get the belt back on the pulleys correctly. If there is no diagram, you might take a digital Photo before you start of how the serpentine belt is routed around the pulleys.

My hero. Thank you for the confirmation. I kinda had that in mind if there wasn't a trick to it.

Thanks for your help.
-Wheel

Just spring the tensioner back by putting a rachet and socket on the end pulley and spring it back and remove the belt from around the alternator.

Replace alternator.

Spring the tensioner back up and put the belt back on.

I just replaced mine on my 98 last month, It took 15 min to get the old one off, and 10 min to get the new one on. Your lucky, this alternator is one of the easy ones.

It was easy. And thanks for all the prompt replies.

I eventually ended up putting a 3" extension for a 9/16 ratchet in the tensioner pulley (there's a square hole at the bottom that it fits into perfectly) and used that as a handle to hold back the tensioner while Amanda put the belt in place. Worked out ok.

Again, thanks for the promt replies and generous help!! It is greatly appreciated.

The rest is for any newbies (without pictures)

How to: install alternator
Tools needed:

1/2" Socket / Wrench
7/32 socket (I think that's the size of the battery terminal bolts - maybe not)
New Alternator (got a rebuild from autozone for $137.xx with the old one)
New battery, or refurbished old one. Chances are if you came to realize your alternator was shot - you need a new battery - not always the case, have the battery tested.

Remove the battery cables from the terminals. Negative first, then Positive.

Unplug the sensor from the alternator: Pry up (gently) the plug latch from the back of the plug, and pull plug straight out. DO NOT FORCE IT!! If it doesn't come out easy, make sure the latch has cleared the catch.

Remove the cable from the rear of the alternator. Pull back the rubber boot from around the terminal, take off the nut (7/32 I think), remove the wire. Save the nut.

Using your 1/2' Socket wrench, remove the 3 bolts holding the alternator in place:Bottom left front, Bottom right front, top rear left. The alternator is only the electric coil lookin' thing - don't confuse it with the cast iron base it rests in and remove unnecessary bolts.

Push back the tensioner (located directly under the alternator pulley) Remove the belt from the alternator pulley. Be careful not to unsling the belt from all the pulleys - it's ok if you do, but not as easy. OR Replace the belt, recomended.

Installation is the reverse. Fully install the alternator before putting the belt back into place, life is much easier that way.

Follow the advice of the other folks who replied previous to this post.

Good luck.

You should have went to a salvage yard... $137 for a reman alternator is nuts.

Napa wanted $135 plus my old one and I thought hell no. Went to a salvage yard and paid $45 and the alternator I got had just been remanufactured and looked in better shape then the one that was in my vehicle originally.

Funny thing, when I called the salvage yard (one I go to for parts) they were actually asking more than autozone was...no kidding. 137 was the best I found, our local NAPA actually wanted 168 plus the old one or a $25 core charge. I suppose our ridiculous cost of living has filtered into everything...including rebuilds.

Could have gotten one off of ebay too for $40 or $50 or hell $86 new...

I've gotten one off of ebay before, if you buy from someone decent it'll turn out alright... but I suppose you needed one right away.

Maybe for future references... glad to hear you checked your local salvage yard...

I read with interest your instructions on how to remove and install alternator. I am puzzled though about one thing. Can you really remove all of the mounting bolts before releasing the tension on the belt? When I look at it it seems like the belt must come off first. thanks

I would get the belt off the alternator first before unbolting it...