How to: Installing 2WD Brake Rotors
LTJGWorth
08-14-2005, 06:08 PM
This article focuses on the replacement of the front brake rotors on a 2000 2WD F-150 Supercab XLT, but is practically the same for all 2WD, RWD vehicles with disc brakes. Sorry, I don't have any pictures, but I will describe everything the best I can. This isn't hard, so you shouldn't have a problem.
Tools needed:
Jack
Jack Stands (2)
4-Way Lug
18MM Socket
13MM Socket
Flathead screwdriver
Hammer
Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
Breaker Bar (Optional)
C-clamp
What to change (purchase) (Everything can be purchased at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts. Cost was about $192.00):
Rotors
Brake Pads
Seals
Bearings (optional)
Bearing Grease
Start by engaging the emergency brake and lossening the lug nuts on the wheels with the 4-way lug. Then raise the front of the vehicle with the jack. Place jack stands under the vehicle to support it (do not let the jack support the weight). Now, pick a side of the vehicle to start on. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and set them aside. Using the 13MM socket, remove the top and bottom bolts from the back of the caliper holding it onto the caliper bracket. If the caliper comes off (mine didn't because my pads were still fairly new), DO NOT let it hang from the brake line. I laid the caliper on a concrete block. Now, use the 18MM socket to remove the top and bottom bolts from the back of the caliper bracket (they will be tight) and remove the caliper bracket and set it aside. Now, using the flat head screwdriver and the hammer, carefully (very carefully) tap the end of the screwdriver between the lip on the dust cover and the hub to pry it off (be careful not to bend the dust cover). Go all the way around the dust cover until it pops off and set it aside. Remove the cotter pin with the needle nose pliers and remove the nut retainer and set them aside. The nut should come off with just a turn with your fingers, but if it doesn't use the wrench. Take the nut completely off and pull the rotor forward and the front bearing and washer will pop out. Remove the bearing and washer and set them aside, taking care not to get them dirty (if you are reusing the bearing; otherwise dispose of the bearing). Now, put the nut back on a couple of turns and, letting the rotor rest completely on the spindle, pull hard on it to pop out the rear seal and bearing. Once out, remove the nut, rotor, seal, and bearing. Throw the rotor seal away and set the bearing aside, taking care not to get it dirty (if you are reusing it; if not dispose of it). It is now time to pack the bearings with grease. They make a tool to do it, but it's just as easy and cheaper to do it by hand (although messy). You have to do this to both bearings (front and rear). To pack the bearings, take a bit of grease and place it in the palm of one hand (if you're right handed, place the grease in your left hand, ect). Take the bearing which you are packing and put it on your fingers (wear it like a ring around 1 or 2 fingers and hold it tight). Now, "bite" at the grease with the edge of the bearing until the grease starts to squeeze up through the top of the bearing. Do this all the way around on both bearings. It might also help to put a good coat of grease all over both bearings once they are packed. Take your new rotor and place the rear (bigger) bearing in the back of it. Take your new seal and place it over the bearing (to install the seal, I used one of the old brake pads and, making sure it was clean, placed it on the seal and lightly hammered it in; both sides of the seal have to go in at the same time or it will come out). Make sure the seal is in snug and flat or it will come out. Take your rotor and place it on the spindle. Once the rotor is all the way on the spindle, put the front bearing and washer on and the put the nut on. Tighten the nut until there is no rocking movement in the rotor (do not over tighten the nut or you will ruin your bearings). Install the nut retainer and cotter pin. Lightly tap the dust cover back onto the hub with the hammer. Now, reinstall the caliper bracket. Take your new brake pads and install them on the caliper bracket. To install the caliper on the new pads, you have to depress the caliper pistons. To do this (unless you have a single piston caliper) I used one of the old brake pads and placed it over the pistons and used the c-clamp to depress the pistons. Onces depressed, the caliper should slide right onto the pads and the bracket. Install and tighten the caliper bolts onto the caliper bracket. Reinstall the wheel and tire onto the new hub and rotor and install the lugs. Both sides are exactly the same. Good luck!
Tools needed:
Jack
Jack Stands (2)
4-Way Lug
18MM Socket
13MM Socket
Flathead screwdriver
Hammer
Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
Breaker Bar (Optional)
C-clamp
What to change (purchase) (Everything can be purchased at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts. Cost was about $192.00):
Rotors
Brake Pads
Seals
Bearings (optional)
Bearing Grease
Start by engaging the emergency brake and lossening the lug nuts on the wheels with the 4-way lug. Then raise the front of the vehicle with the jack. Place jack stands under the vehicle to support it (do not let the jack support the weight). Now, pick a side of the vehicle to start on. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and set them aside. Using the 13MM socket, remove the top and bottom bolts from the back of the caliper holding it onto the caliper bracket. If the caliper comes off (mine didn't because my pads were still fairly new), DO NOT let it hang from the brake line. I laid the caliper on a concrete block. Now, use the 18MM socket to remove the top and bottom bolts from the back of the caliper bracket (they will be tight) and remove the caliper bracket and set it aside. Now, using the flat head screwdriver and the hammer, carefully (very carefully) tap the end of the screwdriver between the lip on the dust cover and the hub to pry it off (be careful not to bend the dust cover). Go all the way around the dust cover until it pops off and set it aside. Remove the cotter pin with the needle nose pliers and remove the nut retainer and set them aside. The nut should come off with just a turn with your fingers, but if it doesn't use the wrench. Take the nut completely off and pull the rotor forward and the front bearing and washer will pop out. Remove the bearing and washer and set them aside, taking care not to get them dirty (if you are reusing the bearing; otherwise dispose of the bearing). Now, put the nut back on a couple of turns and, letting the rotor rest completely on the spindle, pull hard on it to pop out the rear seal and bearing. Once out, remove the nut, rotor, seal, and bearing. Throw the rotor seal away and set the bearing aside, taking care not to get it dirty (if you are reusing it; if not dispose of it). It is now time to pack the bearings with grease. They make a tool to do it, but it's just as easy and cheaper to do it by hand (although messy). You have to do this to both bearings (front and rear). To pack the bearings, take a bit of grease and place it in the palm of one hand (if you're right handed, place the grease in your left hand, ect). Take the bearing which you are packing and put it on your fingers (wear it like a ring around 1 or 2 fingers and hold it tight). Now, "bite" at the grease with the edge of the bearing until the grease starts to squeeze up through the top of the bearing. Do this all the way around on both bearings. It might also help to put a good coat of grease all over both bearings once they are packed. Take your new rotor and place the rear (bigger) bearing in the back of it. Take your new seal and place it over the bearing (to install the seal, I used one of the old brake pads and, making sure it was clean, placed it on the seal and lightly hammered it in; both sides of the seal have to go in at the same time or it will come out). Make sure the seal is in snug and flat or it will come out. Take your rotor and place it on the spindle. Once the rotor is all the way on the spindle, put the front bearing and washer on and the put the nut on. Tighten the nut until there is no rocking movement in the rotor (do not over tighten the nut or you will ruin your bearings). Install the nut retainer and cotter pin. Lightly tap the dust cover back onto the hub with the hammer. Now, reinstall the caliper bracket. Take your new brake pads and install them on the caliper bracket. To install the caliper on the new pads, you have to depress the caliper pistons. To do this (unless you have a single piston caliper) I used one of the old brake pads and placed it over the pistons and used the c-clamp to depress the pistons. Onces depressed, the caliper should slide right onto the pads and the bracket. Install and tighten the caliper bolts onto the caliper bracket. Reinstall the wheel and tire onto the new hub and rotor and install the lugs. Both sides are exactly the same. Good luck!
peppermrj
08-15-2005, 08:09 PM
:thumbsup: :cheers:
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