It lives!!! EVO16g is in

After a week of having the car up on jacks, the new turbo is in and I took the car for a spin. I'm happy to say, we found no leaks and my car now sounds like a monster :).

I had a boost leak before the install (sitting 11 vac at idle) but during the process, I took off every hose I could get to, flushed them, and reclamped everything. When I fired up the car, vac was at 3 :eek7: . I opened the hood and found out the vac line going to the boost gauge had a major crack in it. After replacing it, I sit at 20 vac at idle :biggrin: .

When I took it out, it boosted to exactly 10psi and held firm by somewhere between 3400 and 3800 rpms (was a little traffic so I had to do the darty eyes). This was awesome news for two reasons. 1) I knew the wastegate for the turbo was set to 10psi so this confirmed the accuracy of my boost gauge. 2) Nothing exploded.

I have to say at 10psi, it definitely has less kick than the T25 at 14ish. I'm not disappointed though because after the car cools down, I'm installing a boost controller. I'm going to knock it up to 12 for now. I have a pocketlogger coming later this week so I'll adjust the boost with more assurance.

The install was not too bad. I didn't purchase a kit or anything so it made it a little more challenging. I did end up purchasing a full SS oil line (highly recommended) and a j-pipe from dsmtrader. It took me a long time to do because my dad and I changed EVERY line we could get to in the process. If they were right out in the open, why not? The only major hitch we ran into was the LICP and lower radiator hose. We ended up fashioning our own LICP by taking the s-shaped stock one, cutting it right down the middle (so we ended up with 2 "j"ish-shaped pieces) and putting a 2" diameter, 11" long piece of exhaust pipe between them. Total cost of solution, $4.96. And now I have a "hard" LICP :icon16: .

That fabricated pipe got in the way of the lower radiator hose though so we had to get a new one. We got a flexible tube about 2 feet long and bent it around. We had to contend with the shifter linkages and keeping the hose clear but some exhaust wrap and wire ties fixed that right up.

All in all, I'm super happy even though my car is a bit slower. I've got the room to grow now and one of the biggest upgrades the car will see out of the way. Plus, NO MORE BURNIING OIL! Refilling a quart of synthetic oil every week was getting expensive. :biggrin:

Congratulations, lets see some pictures. Do you have any of the install process?

I don't really have any of the install process. I have some when everything was completely gutted. I don't really know how to post pics. I can take some of the car now.

I tried putting in a 14b before jumping up to the EVO16g as some of my earlier posts will reveal. I bought one from dsmtrader from some guy who totally lied to me about the condition. It would be really useful to put up those pictures. He "had the turbo rebuild completely 22k miles ago" and when I talked to him, he informed me that for the last 5k miles, he was improperly venting to the atmosphere. You can clearly see in the pics the chewed up compressor wheel and destroyed exhaust housing.

Let me know how to post pictures/where to send pictures to get them posted.

www.photobucket.com or www.imageshack.us

rock on. I'll post what pics I can tonight.

I went to a movie with the fam so no pics tonight. I'll get some tomorrow when it's light out and post them asap.

A few quick questions, though, if I may. I don't have any logger yet but I do have an apex'i turbo timer and it gives me readouts on A/F and O2 voltage. I took the car out on the road for a bit and did some 2nd gear pulls through to about 6k rpms (I was on a 45mph road so I didn't want to push my luck too much :) ). The boost gauge would climb and stay glued to 10 psi. Good and expected. The O2 voltage would start to climb when I went WOT from about .91 to about .99. It seemed to stop about there at about 5300k rpms but I never did wind out the gear so it might have gone a little higher in the end. I'll find out tomorrow. It did this on 3 pulls straight. I ticked the TT to A/F and it would drop to 10.1 for the 2 pulls I did on that setting.

My question is, do these numbers seem right? I have no way of knowing how accurate the TT is but it is at least a start until the logger comes. I've read target A/F of 11 in some posts before so I'm wondering if I'm running too rich/Will my engine blow up.

I did the fuel pump rewire and the TT also tells me that battery voltage is 13.5 so I'm guessing slightly below that at the stock pump. If it is a big issue, I can get out the voltmeter tomorrow and let you know actual voltage.

I'm guessing that if I am running a tad rich, I can up the boost a little bit as planned and be ok. I'll be in better shape when I can log stuff but until then, I wanted to get some expert opinions. I'd be very bummed if my car exploded this soon after making it awesomer. Thanks.

Well, those readings are not exactly 100% accurate. but it give you a idea of whats going on. The only way to tell what your true AFR or 02 volts are isto buy a Wideband setup. The most effecent burn rate is at 14.5:1, fastest flame speeds are at 11:1. But best power is made between 12-12.5:1. On 2g's Target 02's should be around .96. 1g's are lower, around .92. But its reall not the best idea to tune specificly off 02 volts. They give you a basic idea of how rich/lean your running but don't tell you much else. You need to tune off Timing advance and AFR's on 2g's. the 2g dosn't have the ability to disply knock from the ecu. So we have to watch our timing advances and 02's for irregularities like dips, unstedy advance, low/high 02's. Their are other things to look for, but those are the most common.

As long as your getting 13.5 steady at the fuel pump your good. You will forever run rich untell you have somthing to intercept/tweek that maf signal to the ecu

You might want to check base timing (5 degree) and base fuel pressure (43psi) to make sure your not off on aything.

Excellent knowledge scottsee. I know its a poor substitute for real logging but I'm using all available resources at this point :).

You say I "will forever run rich." Does that mean that no matter what boost I set it to, it will try to get to the same A/F without some tuning device? That might be a stupid question...