91 525i trans problem..
tas200
08-12-2005, 04:17 PM
My transmission pop out of the drive gear occasionally only at 2nd-3rd and it happens at any temperature.
Normally it happen 2000 rpm at 2nd gear, it doesn’t go up to 3rd and just pop out.
Display panel doesn’t say nothing, and about 10 sec later, get into 2nd again and 3rd-4th –like that….
Is there anyone who know about this…
Normally it happen 2000 rpm at 2nd gear, it doesn’t go up to 3rd and just pop out.
Display panel doesn’t say nothing, and about 10 sec later, get into 2nd again and 3rd-4th –like that….
Is there anyone who know about this…
imnprsd
08-12-2005, 07:57 PM
I have a similiar thread, but so far no one has been able to offer me a suggestion as to why this is happening. However, I can give you some ideas on what I did to make the tranny shift better. My tranny is still not 100% so maybe these ideas are not a fix, but it's worth a try:
1) Go to any tranny shop and have them check the codes. They will do this for free to get you to commit to a full over-haul. Just don't say yes. Besides, you may need to talk to a few tranny shops before you feel comfortable committing to an overhaul job in the future if the following does not solve your problem.
2) Check the fluid level properly. (See url link below.) THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. If it needs changing do it twice. First, drain the tranny fluid from below bottom hole at any fluid change shop or you can do it yourself. However, a fluid shop will only charge you $25 and it's a little hard to refill the tranny in the side hole. This will dilute your existing fluid, and I think it's a good idea to do it this way because you can't change the fluid in the torque converter. Do put any additives in yet. Be sure the fluid is at the proper level. Drive the car a few days and note any improvement.
http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/4L30E.pdf
3) If there is some improvement, and it's time to change the tranny fluid and filter. Take it to the tranny shop to have the filter and both pans dropped for inspection. Be sure to tell them your problem so they look for loose solenoid connections. Do not have them Flush the system to change the fluid. In an old tranny this can cause problems. Just do a second fluid change, only this time change the filter.
3) When you re-fill the fluid, add 1 bottle (12 oz I think) of Lucas Transmission Stop to your fluid change. Note: My tranny needed 2 bottles, but you only do that if 1 bottle does not work for you and as a last option. BE SURE THE FLUID IS AT THE CORRECT LEVEL!
4) Good luck. If this does not work then your only other option is to check these other possible causes. The problem is that most (99%) of the tranny shops out there will not want to help you diagnose your problem, because they make money overhauling trannys not repairing them. (...And they all when to the same school of how to get more money out of the customer.)
Check tranny speed sensor on top of the tranny... Your Neutral Position Switch (under the shift lever)... And the Tranny EEPROM.
1) Go to any tranny shop and have them check the codes. They will do this for free to get you to commit to a full over-haul. Just don't say yes. Besides, you may need to talk to a few tranny shops before you feel comfortable committing to an overhaul job in the future if the following does not solve your problem.
2) Check the fluid level properly. (See url link below.) THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. If it needs changing do it twice. First, drain the tranny fluid from below bottom hole at any fluid change shop or you can do it yourself. However, a fluid shop will only charge you $25 and it's a little hard to refill the tranny in the side hole. This will dilute your existing fluid, and I think it's a good idea to do it this way because you can't change the fluid in the torque converter. Do put any additives in yet. Be sure the fluid is at the proper level. Drive the car a few days and note any improvement.
http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/4L30E.pdf
3) If there is some improvement, and it's time to change the tranny fluid and filter. Take it to the tranny shop to have the filter and both pans dropped for inspection. Be sure to tell them your problem so they look for loose solenoid connections. Do not have them Flush the system to change the fluid. In an old tranny this can cause problems. Just do a second fluid change, only this time change the filter.
3) When you re-fill the fluid, add 1 bottle (12 oz I think) of Lucas Transmission Stop to your fluid change. Note: My tranny needed 2 bottles, but you only do that if 1 bottle does not work for you and as a last option. BE SURE THE FLUID IS AT THE CORRECT LEVEL!
4) Good luck. If this does not work then your only other option is to check these other possible causes. The problem is that most (99%) of the tranny shops out there will not want to help you diagnose your problem, because they make money overhauling trannys not repairing them. (...And they all when to the same school of how to get more money out of the customer.)
Check tranny speed sensor on top of the tranny... Your Neutral Position Switch (under the shift lever)... And the Tranny EEPROM.
imnprsd
08-16-2005, 04:20 AM
I FOUND THE FIX.... In my transmission anyway. You need to remove the gear selector switch and clean it. If after inspection you see some copper traces worn away, replace it.
Also, some other symptoms are:
1) Poor gas mileage. After cleaning my gear selector switch, my tranny ran better and climbed hills better and go 3 more MPH (24 HWY) with better acceleration.
2) My dash lights which tell me what gear I am in are now clearer. Previously, some pixels were not lighting up or were randomly lighting up.
What a relief... And it did not cost me a dime to fix!!!!
Procedure:
1) Put the gear in nuetral and remove the alan screw on the shift lever.
2) Lift the cover plate up... Be careful not to damage the plasic piece which rolls up the shifter cover plate (BTW, my cover plate needed replacing so I ordered one from BMA for ~$4). To do this, pri-up the sides but try to lift from the top of the cover plate first and not the back half.
4) Remover the 2 alan screws that hold down the white plastic gear shifter (the one where the shifter lever has a pin to move the contact switch).
5) Clean the switch with contact cleaner.... Just stuff a rag inside and use a small flat head screw driver to clean. Then replace.
6) While you are at it you might as well vacume the crud in this area!
The gear selector switch is also called a neutral selector switch. It operates like a washing machine timer; i.e., over time the contacts get dirty or wear out.
IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING LOW GAS MILEAGE, AND YOU TRANNY POPS OUT OF GEAR ONCE IN A WHILE, THIS COULD BE YOUR SOLUTION.
...NOW AREN'T YOU GLAD YOU BELONG TO A FORUM LIKE THIS ONE. PLEASE RETURN THE FAVOR IF YOU FIND A CURE TO YOUR MECHANICAL PROBLEMS SO EVERYONE CAN SAVE SOME MONEY.... In your case, cleaning the gear selector switch solves your problem, you just saved a premature transmission overhaul and ~$2000 to $2400!!!
Also, some other symptoms are:
1) Poor gas mileage. After cleaning my gear selector switch, my tranny ran better and climbed hills better and go 3 more MPH (24 HWY) with better acceleration.
2) My dash lights which tell me what gear I am in are now clearer. Previously, some pixels were not lighting up or were randomly lighting up.
What a relief... And it did not cost me a dime to fix!!!!
Procedure:
1) Put the gear in nuetral and remove the alan screw on the shift lever.
2) Lift the cover plate up... Be careful not to damage the plasic piece which rolls up the shifter cover plate (BTW, my cover plate needed replacing so I ordered one from BMA for ~$4). To do this, pri-up the sides but try to lift from the top of the cover plate first and not the back half.
4) Remover the 2 alan screws that hold down the white plastic gear shifter (the one where the shifter lever has a pin to move the contact switch).
5) Clean the switch with contact cleaner.... Just stuff a rag inside and use a small flat head screw driver to clean. Then replace.
6) While you are at it you might as well vacume the crud in this area!
The gear selector switch is also called a neutral selector switch. It operates like a washing machine timer; i.e., over time the contacts get dirty or wear out.
IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING LOW GAS MILEAGE, AND YOU TRANNY POPS OUT OF GEAR ONCE IN A WHILE, THIS COULD BE YOUR SOLUTION.
...NOW AREN'T YOU GLAD YOU BELONG TO A FORUM LIKE THIS ONE. PLEASE RETURN THE FAVOR IF YOU FIND A CURE TO YOUR MECHANICAL PROBLEMS SO EVERYONE CAN SAVE SOME MONEY.... In your case, cleaning the gear selector switch solves your problem, you just saved a premature transmission overhaul and ~$2000 to $2400!!!
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