Power Steering pump removal-98 GT
Bassett72
08-11-2005, 04:49 PM
Can someone PLEASE help me here????
I assuming I need to replace my PS pump. Every time I steer sharp to the right or left I hear a moaning from the pump. The fluild level is full.
So, what I would like to know before starting this project is…
1….Does this sound like the PS pump is the problem?
2….If not, any suggestions?
3….If so, anyone have step by step directions on how to replace it?
It seems to be buried behind a lot of crap and I don’t want to pull the whole damn engine apart if I don’t have to. Would like some direction. Please advise….Thanks…
I assuming I need to replace my PS pump. Every time I steer sharp to the right or left I hear a moaning from the pump. The fluild level is full.
So, what I would like to know before starting this project is…
1….Does this sound like the PS pump is the problem?
2….If not, any suggestions?
3….If so, anyone have step by step directions on how to replace it?
It seems to be buried behind a lot of crap and I don’t want to pull the whole damn engine apart if I don’t have to. Would like some direction. Please advise….Thanks…
Bassett72
08-12-2005, 03:58 PM
Anyone have any suggestions?
BNaylor
08-12-2005, 09:05 PM
Sounds like it could be be the power steering pump. It sounds like one of the noises associated with a defective PS pump, the other being a whining sound. I see no one else took the time and effort to help you so here goes:
If you believe its defective, here's the general removal procedure for a GM car equipped with a Series II 3800 engine:
Make sure engine is cold. Disconnect battery negative cable. You'll need a droplight to see what you're doing.
Remove strut tower cross brace.
Remove the coolant reservoir. If you have a Grand Prix with one mounted on the passenger side strut tower, remove it.
Remove the serpentine drive belt by loosening belt tensioner.
At this point, I highly recommend jacking up the passenger side of the car and removing the tire. Support with a jackstand. Remove the plastic splash guard. This will make getting to the pressure and return lines easier.
Remove the 2 power steering pump mounting bolts. Size = 15mm. The bolts holding the PS pump are in the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. You'll need to move the PS pulley and line up the large access hole in the PS pump pulley with the bolts. Once lined up, using a deep well socket remove them.
Remove pressure and return lines from PS pump. The pressure line is on the bottom of the pump itself and has a metal fitting. The return line is attached to the reservoir and is just a piece of tubing with a hose clamp on it. Remove pump. The pump will start leaking fluid all over the place once the lines are disconnected. Try to tie the two lines up, if possible, so that they don't fall over and start pouring out fluid.
The new pump may or may not come with a pulley and reservoir. If not you will have to transfer them from the old pump to the new one. The replacement should come with directions on how to do this but you will probably need a gear/pulley puller to get the pulley off the old pump.
Install new PS pump. Attach the pressure and return lines to the new pump. Re-mount PS pump by replacing the 2 bolts and tightening (20 ft-lbs).
Re-install plastic splash guard. Re-install tire and drop back to ground level.
Re-install the serpentine belt. This may be a good time to install a new belt.
Re-install coolant reservoir, if applicable.
Re-install strut tower cross brace.
Make sure everything is tight and properly torqued.
Re-connect battery negative cable.
Refill and air bleeding procedure (rack n pinion system):
NOTE: To relieve steering tension when engine is off, you can raise and support the vehicle with front wheels off the ground. Use good quality power steering fluid. A small funnel with a long hose attached should be used to add fluid.
With ignition off and in steering unlock position, turn wheel to the left. Now add power steering fluid to the FULL COLD mark on the dipstick. Leave the cap off. Turns wheels side to side several times without hitting the steering stops. Check fluid level again and add to maintain level at FULL COLD mark.
Start the engine and let idle for approximately 5 minutes. Turn the wheels all the way to the left and right several times without hitting the stops. Turn off engine and check the fluid level again. Make sure that it is at or near the FULL HOT line. Replace cap.
Road test car and then check for leaks. Also you can re-check fluid level again just to verify. Good luck!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
If you believe its defective, here's the general removal procedure for a GM car equipped with a Series II 3800 engine:
Make sure engine is cold. Disconnect battery negative cable. You'll need a droplight to see what you're doing.
Remove strut tower cross brace.
Remove the coolant reservoir. If you have a Grand Prix with one mounted on the passenger side strut tower, remove it.
Remove the serpentine drive belt by loosening belt tensioner.
At this point, I highly recommend jacking up the passenger side of the car and removing the tire. Support with a jackstand. Remove the plastic splash guard. This will make getting to the pressure and return lines easier.
Remove the 2 power steering pump mounting bolts. Size = 15mm. The bolts holding the PS pump are in the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. You'll need to move the PS pulley and line up the large access hole in the PS pump pulley with the bolts. Once lined up, using a deep well socket remove them.
Remove pressure and return lines from PS pump. The pressure line is on the bottom of the pump itself and has a metal fitting. The return line is attached to the reservoir and is just a piece of tubing with a hose clamp on it. Remove pump. The pump will start leaking fluid all over the place once the lines are disconnected. Try to tie the two lines up, if possible, so that they don't fall over and start pouring out fluid.
The new pump may or may not come with a pulley and reservoir. If not you will have to transfer them from the old pump to the new one. The replacement should come with directions on how to do this but you will probably need a gear/pulley puller to get the pulley off the old pump.
Install new PS pump. Attach the pressure and return lines to the new pump. Re-mount PS pump by replacing the 2 bolts and tightening (20 ft-lbs).
Re-install plastic splash guard. Re-install tire and drop back to ground level.
Re-install the serpentine belt. This may be a good time to install a new belt.
Re-install coolant reservoir, if applicable.
Re-install strut tower cross brace.
Make sure everything is tight and properly torqued.
Re-connect battery negative cable.
Refill and air bleeding procedure (rack n pinion system):
NOTE: To relieve steering tension when engine is off, you can raise and support the vehicle with front wheels off the ground. Use good quality power steering fluid. A small funnel with a long hose attached should be used to add fluid.
With ignition off and in steering unlock position, turn wheel to the left. Now add power steering fluid to the FULL COLD mark on the dipstick. Leave the cap off. Turns wheels side to side several times without hitting the steering stops. Check fluid level again and add to maintain level at FULL COLD mark.
Start the engine and let idle for approximately 5 minutes. Turn the wheels all the way to the left and right several times without hitting the stops. Turn off engine and check the fluid level again. Make sure that it is at or near the FULL HOT line. Replace cap.
Road test car and then check for leaks. Also you can re-check fluid level again just to verify. Good luck!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
regalfriend
08-13-2005, 12:11 AM
to give some advice.... you may want to try a bottle of power steering conditioner...i had same whining problem and tried a bottle ($5-6). It did make it alot quieter for about 18 months. Now whining seems to be getting louder, so i think i will replace mine too. You definitly dont want to go to the junkyard for this part, and would be a little leary of getting a re-man.A new pump would be best.If you go with the re-man, try to make sure you find a good builder...Good luck...and tell me the results, i'd like to hear how it went.
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