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renew dexcool or go green @ 48k mi.


bombergp
08-10-2005, 10:32 PM
Hey guys: In reading so many bad accounts with dexcool I'm wanting to hear some recomendations to stay with or abandon d/c or, is it really possible to safely change over to ol' green. I have a 2001 SE 3.1L 48k mi. since new no probs!

GTP Dad
08-11-2005, 05:31 AM
I recommend that you stay with the Dexcool at least at this point. If you have had no problems then don't worry about changing it. Your car is designed for it and therefore you should keep it. With the low miles you have you shouldn't develp any problems in the near future although you may want to watch the overflow tank for a build up of brown sludge and clean it out periodically.

BNaylor
08-11-2005, 07:36 AM
Sometimes its better to leave well enough alone as GTP Dad suggested.

It is possible to switch over to regular green coolant but the cooling system must be thoroughly flushed first.

Another option would be to go with the new coolants such as Prestone Extended Life which is based on organic acid technolology (OAT) just like Dexcool. Unlike Dexcool, its green and can safely be mixed with Dexcool. Won't damage engine metals such as aluminum or the gaskets either. Again its wise to flush out old coolant before putting in any new stuff.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

richtazz
08-11-2005, 09:42 AM
This will be the first time I disagree with GTP. Dex-cool is a nasty, corrosive, coagulating, sludgy mess, and if I had my cooilng system open for any reason, it would be gone. Just be sure that you copletely flush all traces of Dex-cool before you change over, as green and Dex-cool do not play well together.

BNaylor
08-11-2005, 09:55 AM
This will be the first time I disagree with GTP. Dex-cool is a nasty, corrosive, coagulating, sludgy mess, and if I had my cooilng system open for any reason, it would be gone. Just be sure that you copletely flush all traces of Dex-cool before you change over, as green and Dex-cool do not play well together.

What are you waiting for Rich? I did mine over 3 months ago on my GTP and Regal GS and switched from Dexcool to Prestone Extended Life. Best decision I ever made.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

richtazz
08-11-2005, 10:14 AM
mine is gone B, converted as soon as I bought my car. I meant that if he was opening his cooling system, it'd be gone if it were me.

BNaylor
08-11-2005, 10:20 AM
mine is gone B, converted as soon as I bought my car. I meant that if he was opening his cooling system, it'd be gone if it were me.

Just out of curiousity what brand did you switch to? I've got two more to go, son's Alero and wife's Regal LS. Can only handle one ball at a time...lol. :lol2:



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

richtazz
08-11-2005, 10:34 AM
I used Prestone, as i wanted something that wasn't too abrasive, but has some silicates in it to reduce sluge formation.

GTP Dad
08-11-2005, 02:44 PM
I have no problem with disagreements as you probably know. Changing the coolant is a personal preference and it is up to him based on a variety of views on what he will actually will do. Richtazz makes a good point in that Dexcool is nasty stuff but once again he only has 48K on the clock so unless he is having a problem it may be wise to stay with the Dex. If he insists on changing then the new Prestone EL is an excellent choice over the regular stuff.

BNaylor
08-11-2005, 03:09 PM
I have no problem with disagreements as you probably know. Changing the coolant is a personal preference and it is up to him based on a variety of views on what he will actually will do. Richtazz makes a good point in that Dexcool is nasty stuff but once again he only has 48K on the clock so unless he is having a problem it may be wise to stay with the Dex. If he insists on changing then the new Prestone EL is an excellent choice over the regular stuff.


Whats good about the GP form is its balanced with typically all points of view. Everyone has their own point of view. At least in the end the person that inquired can make an educated decision.

Off topic GTP Dad....how did the header install go? I just took delivery of SLP headers and started installation. Any suggestions or tips? Hopefully I can finish with all my fingers, hands and arms intact. :lol2:


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

GTP Dad
08-11-2005, 06:03 PM
I haven't really had the time or the weather to finish. No garage and 90 degree weather is no time to fool with headers. I still haven't gotten the engine rotated back into place.

I have all the stuff to make a custom exhaust. Planning on using a high flow cat,3" a true O2 sensor not a sim. I plan to use a glass pak as a resonator and then plan to split the pipes from there back to the mufflers to make dual exhaust from there. I hope to have it finished next month. The one thing to remember is to leave the front and rear headers loose until you attach the crossover pipe then tighten them. I also recommend a good air rachet to remove the stock manifold bolts, a whole lot faster. Last, be real careful when you rotate the engine, the on e motor mount is cast aluminum and it will break easily. (Learned from experience $16 for a new one, not expensive just a PITA.)

BNaylor
08-11-2005, 08:05 PM
I haven't really had the time or the weather to finish. No garage and 90 degree weather is no time to fool with headers. I still haven't gotten the engine rotated back into place.

I have all the stuff to make a custom exhaust. Planning on using a high flow cat,3" a true O2 sensor not a sim. I plan to use a glass pak as a resonator and then plan to split the pipes from there back to the mufflers to make dual exhaust from there. I hope to have it finished next month. The one thing to remember is to leave the front and rear headers loose until you attach the crossover pipe then tighten them. I also recommend a good air rachet to remove the stock manifold bolts, a whole lot faster. Last, be real careful when you rotate the engine, the on e motor mount is cast aluminum and it will break easily. (Learned from experience $16 for a new one, not expensive just a PITA.)

Yes, I know what you mean GTP Dad. No matter how fast you want to get the job done we're always affected by the environment. But it sounds like you have a good plan. I'm trying to get done by this Sunday and then do some testing earleir in the week for another run at the dragstrip the following Saturday.

I'll definitely keep your suggestions in mind. I'm running a quasi custom system with 2.5 inch downpipe from the woven flex joint to a Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT with 2.5 in/outlets into the stock plumbing and mufflers. No resonator. Hopefully I get lucky on the engine rotation. Its a real PITA for 25 hp or so but once its done its done. Thanks for the tips.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

regalfriend
08-11-2005, 09:01 PM
i have had 2 cars w/ dexcool....i know they say to change at 100,000 but dont go by that....if you leave it go for this long it will become thick and sludgey....im a fanatic w/ mantainance and dont go by manufacturers specs...they say plugs should be changed at 100k but i do it at 50k....also i usually change oil at 2500 to 3000...remember the dealer makes more money servicing your car than selling you a car...i recomend staying with dex cool since your car was designed for it...change it sooner than the manufacturer suggest...whatever number they give you, cut it in half, and you should be ok

richtazz
08-13-2005, 12:46 PM
I agree that disagreement is good, in a professional manner of course, as it offers another opinion. I would agree that if he isn't doing anything to the car, leave well enough alone at only 48K. I assumed that he was doing some repair, and even at 48k, if my system was open, Dex-cool would go bye bye. We have a lot of great people on this forum, GTP and Bnaylor are two of the cream of the crop. You guys have helped a lot of people.

BNaylor
08-13-2005, 01:08 PM
I agree that disagreement is good, in a professional manner of course, as it offers another opinion. I would agree that if he isn't doing anything to the car, leave well enough alone at only 48K. I assumed that he was doing some repair, and even at 48k, if my system was open, Dex-cool would go bye bye. We have a lot of great people on this forum, GTP and Bnaylor are two of the cream of the crop. You guys have helped a lot of people.

Speak for yourself Rich. lol. :lol2: You're pretty sharp yourself and have helped a lot of GP forums users. You're in the automotive business for a living but for me its a just a hobby but its nice to help people out or share your experiences. Most of us die hard GP forum users do have common bonds. For one I'm not exactly a fan of the dealers and their service departments, especially after getting screwed over by them or seeing it happen to others.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

richtazz
08-13-2005, 02:04 PM
Can I get an AMEN to that my Forum brothers!

GTP Dad
08-13-2005, 06:28 PM
Amen!!!!!

And to continue with the mutual admiration society, richtazz you give excellent information and usually have information that we hobbiests don't have access to, keep up the good work!

rbsteve
08-13-2005, 11:02 PM
ok cut it out, you are ALL great and help out alot ;)

I changed my dexcool sludge over to extended life OAT stuff today. Flushed out the system with prestone "super flush" and then with water 3 times. The stuff that came out of it...you wouldnt believe...well maybe you would.

Ive stored it in one of those 18 liter water cooler bottles, and there is a good inch of sludge/debris/deposits floating in it. Glad i finally got that crap out of the system. The temperature seems alot more stable now, although i haven't driven it far yet.

Thanks for the help guys !!!!

BIGPROFITT
08-14-2005, 12:44 AM
I have a 1997 Grand Prix. I think getting away from Dexcool was the best thing I have done for my car in a while. Seemed to actually help the car run cooler. I hope the class action suit against GM for Dexcool comes through.

mike561
08-14-2005, 02:50 PM
ive read some places that dexcool is causing problems on GM engines, is this true? cause i put in some green 50/50 on my gp, is that stuff good to use too? it said it can be put in any make/model car and mixed with any stuff thats already in.

GTP Dad
08-14-2005, 04:57 PM
You shouldn't mix the green coolant with dexcool. The Prestone extended life is designed to work with all antifreeze. If you want to get rid of the dex then you must flush the entire system several times and then replace the coolant with the green or Prestone Extended Life.

wylie
08-15-2005, 01:29 PM
Amen!!!!!

And to continue with the mutual admiration society, richtazz you give excellent information and usually have information that we hobbiests don't have access to, keep up the good work!

Man I feel a group hug comin on.
.
.

wylie
08-15-2005, 01:33 PM
ok cut it out, you are ALL great and help out alot ;)

I changed my dexcool sludge over to extended life OAT stuff today. Flushed out the system with prestone "super flush" and then with water 3 times. The stuff that came out of it...you wouldnt believe...well maybe you would.

Ive stored it in one of those 18 liter water cooler bottles, and there is a good inch of sludge/debris/deposits floating in it. Glad i finally got that crap out of the system. The temperature seems alot more stable now, although i haven't driven it far yet.

Thanks for the help guys !!!!

rbsteve: how many miles did you have,I don't think I should try and get another season out of mine.
Sounds like allot a work just to change the coolant though?
.
.

rbsteve
08-16-2005, 12:13 AM
Hey

I have 127000 km on my car so thats about 70000 miles.

Actually its not much work at all, it just takes quite a bit of time since you have to let it heat up and then cool down before you can empty it. Took me a solid afternoon to get it done, but half of that time was done waiting around.

Something to do also is check if your coolant reservoir is all gummed up. While i was waiting i took mine out and gave it a good clean. I had to move my air filter and computer, but it only took about 20 minutes.

If you dont want to change it over completely, then i suggest you at least empty the radiator once or twice and refill it with dexcool. I said before im storing mine in an 18 liter water bottle, it is now starting to sediment, and there is stuff in there im glad i no longer have in my engine. Paste, sludge, chunks, definitely not good stuff.

-Steve

PS If you live somewhere cold in the winter, change it right away. i got caught with old coolant last winter (it looked good when i bought the car), but it froze in my radiator one day and has caused me quite a few problems since.

BNaylor
08-16-2005, 08:52 AM
Something to do also is check if your coolant reservoir is all gummed up. While i was waiting i took mine out and gave it a good clean. I had to move my air filter and computer, but it only took about 20 minutes.

What you see in the coolant reservoir is the effect of exposure to air. Dexcool and air do not get along. I clean mine out every year. If you have a '97 - '98 GP the best thing to do is get a coolant reservoir for '99 and up. It will mount to the passenger side strut tower. That way you don't have to worry about removing the air box and PCM.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

wylie
08-16-2005, 09:29 AM
Hey

PS If you live somewhere cold in the winter, change it right away. i got caught with old coolant last winter (it looked good when i bought the car), but it froze in my radiator one day and has caused me quite a few problems since.

Thanx Steve, Ya its the cold I'm wooried about I live north of the boarder as well, I see your in MTL I'm TO but it still gets pretty cold here.

When I look in my rad its green in there I wonder if its bin done allready.
it had 49k when I bought it its almost 200k now and I've never done it.

What colour is Dexcool?
.
.

rbsteve
08-16-2005, 09:47 AM
Its bright red when brand new. Mine was browny-red. If its green, then maybe it has been done. I bought an antifreeze tester at canadian tire to test my stuff. It looks a bit like a turkey baster, you suck some of the coolant from your radiator into the thing and a floater will tell you up to what temperature it will protect you from overheating and down to what temperature it will freeze. Its about 10$, and might be the best way to find out if it needs changing.

bombergp
08-16-2005, 07:59 PM
Hey Wylie, Maybe you oughta flush out your system just to make sure previous guy didn't leave any gunk behind ay?

bombergp
08-16-2005, 08:05 PM
So you guys who did change to Prestone Extended life, which one, yellow bottle or gray bottle?

bombergp
08-16-2005, 08:09 PM
So you guys that changed to Prestone extended life, which one did you use yellow or gray bottle?

BNaylor
08-16-2005, 11:05 PM
So you guys that changed to Prestone extended life, which one did you use yellow or gray bottle?

I used Prestone Extended Life in the yellow container. The gray container is the 5/150 which is Prestone's version of Dexcool. I guess you can flip a coin.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

wylie
08-17-2005, 08:30 AM
Hey Wylie, Maybe you oughta flush out your system just to make sure previous guy didn't leave any gunk behind ay?

Ya I'm going to be doing it soon.

BNaylor
08-17-2005, 08:35 AM
Ya I'm going to be doing it soon.

Good idea Wylie before the deep freeze kicks in up North. Don't forget to send us some of that snow down South. :lol2:



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

richtazz
08-17-2005, 08:44 AM
I used the yellow bottle too, because it has some silicates, which reduce sludge formation, but won't damage plastic or aluminum cooling system parts.

bombergp
08-22-2005, 09:59 PM
I finally got around to changing out DEXCRAP. Opened rad. cap and there it was, BROWN STINKY gunk caked in the filler neck & cap, resivor too. Was soft as butter and thankfully not visible in core prior to flushing or in fluid coming out. After draining Dex.,first I ran water in motor 20 min., then Prestone superflush and 2 more water fill & runs, then 75% mix Prest. Ext. life yellow bottle.

jessep28
08-22-2005, 10:08 PM
Oh, you can have ALL of our snow up here in Nebraska.

I have to commute to and from school every day (30 mi round trip) and it can get scary. Not so much paranoid me who takes it really easy but all the other idiots in their SUV's that believe that a transfer case, extra drive shaft and a V8 substitutes the need to go slow in the snow.

---end of rant-------

wylie
08-23-2005, 08:42 AM
Good idea Wylie before the deep freeze kicks in up North. Don't forget to send us some of that snow down South. :lol2:


You know it wouldn't be so bad if the winters didn't drag on for ever.
Its been a great summer so far though I've but more miles on the bike than I have since I owned it.

And didn't I get pulled over this morning out in the middle of now where doing 100 in and 80 and they nail me with 20 over and failure to produce licence and insurance.
I had all my ID in the clothes I ware on the bike.
Those bastards.
.
.

BNaylor
08-23-2005, 09:32 AM
You know it wouldn't be so bad if the winters didn't drag on for ever.
Its been a great summer so far though I've but more miles on the bike than I have since I owned it.

And didn't I get pulled over this morning out in the middle of now where doing 100 in and 80 and they nail me with 20 over and failure to produce licence and insurance.
I had all my ID in the clothes I ware on the bike.
Those bastards.
.
.

Ouch! What a bummer. I'm assuming that was kph and not mph.

Nonetheless, sounds like you're having a good time on the Harley.

In Texas I think they give you a certain amount of days, maybe up to 30, to produce the driver's license and proof of insurance and the cites dismissed without having to pay a fine or go to Court.

On the snow at least you guys have winter sports. I read that in Canada they have drag races with snowmobiles and even MX bikes join in on the fun. Some guy on a Honda 250 MX bike claimed he could outrun a Yamaha snowmobile pushing over 90 mph in the snow and ice. They run special spiked tires.

Even when we get snow it only lasts about a day or two and then it melts away. Oh well.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

wylie
08-23-2005, 09:49 AM
Ouch! What a bummer. I'm assuming that was kph and not mph.

Nonetheless, sounds like you're having a good time on the Harley.

In Texas I think they give you a certain amount of days, maybe up to 30, to produce the driver's license and proof of insurance and the cites dismissed without having to pay a fine or go to Court.

On the snow at least you guys have winter sports. I read that in Canada they have drag races with snowmobiles and even MX bikes join in on the fun. Some guy on a Honda 250 MX bike claimed he could outrun a Yamaha snowmobile pushing over 90 mph in the snow and ice. They run special spiked tires.

Even when we get snow it only lasts about a day or two and then it melts away. Oh well.

Ya funny thing I was just thinking about how good things have been going latley. Next thing you know I'm getting pulled over.
Call it thought crime I guess.

If you ever get a chance to head north to do some sledin go for it.
I live just off the main trail, its like a hwy that goes from east to west coast,I don't know how big the machines are now but I saw a few 1100ccs around last year, Nice.
I had to get rid of mine didn't have time for it.
at Least the bike I can take to work.
.
.

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