1993 crank position sensor location

Hi, I did a search here and on the web ,couldnt find anything.where is this thing located.thanks

It would help a lot if you told us what size engine you have because there are so many different sizes with the CPS being in different locations.

Sorry about that.Its the 3.1.I was out looking uder the car just now ,is it in the side of the block by the fire wall?If thats it looks like its almost impossible to get to.thanks again

sorry again 3.1 cutlass supreme

Moby,, the sensor you are looking at in the side of the block is a round sensor with a single wire going to it ,,thisa is a knock sensor no Crank position sensor,,the sensor you are looking for should be in the front of the engine down near the balancer to the right side looking at it and it should have a 3 wire plug going to it,,also I believe you must take the balancer of to get to it.,,it is behind a plastic shield.

Do 93's even have one, i tought it was 3100 3rd gen and up.

Yes, the 93's have a CPS. All engines with a distributerless ignition system have a CPS.

hi, maybe im crazy ,but I picked up the sensor today.Its a 2 wire conector.It looks just like the one thats in the side of my block by the fire wall.I cant get to it from below,only about a 2" space to get a hand in.Maybe I could find a 2 year old to do it!I think I can get to it from above .Its going to be a stretch.The cars too hot now .Ill have to try later this evening.Maybe this is a late 93 model,and thats why its in the side.I can also see the knock sensor above it ,and to the right .Ill let you know how it goes.Thanks for the help

Well I replaced the CPS,didnt make any differance in performance.Im have the same type of problems that Ive read in other posts.Driving, it will run fine for a mile or so then it wants to die then revs way up then smoothes out.Then sometimes it will die.Then it wont start.Other times it will start.Im at a loss I really dont want replace every sensor until I find the problem ,and I cant afford to take it to a mechanic.I guess it could be some sort of wiring or computer problem too.I checked for trouble codes ,and theres nothing stored in the computer.Am I right in saying this engine does not have a MAF sensor?I read where one guy replaced his fuel injectors,and that cured the problem.I did pull a set out of a salvage yard car.What should the ohms read on a good injector.Thanks for help.

Try the speed sensor on the transmission. I know you think I am crazy but the speed sensor has a wierd effect on these cars epecially when they go bad. I had an e-mail from a member about similar symptoms, I recommended she change the speed sensor and when she finally changed it the problems all went away.

Thanks GTP Dad .Ill give a look.

Okay,heres the scoop.Got home from work today(BTW this is my 16 year old sons car),and checked wiring connectors on about everything.I bought 2 bottles of injector cleaner dumped them in the tank.Only had a 1/4 tank of gas,so its nice and strong.Started up but died.Did this seveal times.So my son and I decided to take it out for a drive.The only way I could get it in gear was to keep my foot on the gas .We took off,and right away it would hesitate,try to die .The rpms would go up and down.Then it smoothed out and ran fine we drove for 15 miles with no trouble.So stoped to turn around,and it dies.Got out and wiggled the IAC wires.Started it up idled fine .Drove it back home.Shut it off and started it 6 or 7 times .Worked great.So we thought it was fixed.My son goes to work this morning(its about 10 miles)he calls me says it ran good till he got there,then it died.He said he couldnt get it started.He said he finaly got it going by keeping his foot on the gas.Parked it and went to work.I guess we will see what happens when he gets off.It would seem to me if its a sensor,or some other electrical componat,It would come up as a fault code.Back to the drawing board.Thanks for listening

I was gonna suggest trying to either clean out the IAC or replace it,,see if it is plugged up but not shorting out or bad then it may not code but it will give you problems because it is all gummed up,,they are very sensitive and if they are trying to settle your idle and run into some grime while settling then it may open way up trying to pick up the idle ,,then it dies cause it is sucking to much air,, see the IAC( Idle air control ) basically idles your engine automatically when you turn your ac on or say it trys to idle down and the iac will fluctuate and move in or out pending on the amount of air it needs to succesfully make a smooth idle and any grime in there can compromise its ability to move in or out and it may overthrow trying to compensate for the running into gum or carbon . take a small screwdriver and take it off and clean it up real good and also clean up the seat where it makes contact with the throttle body,,it might not give you a good idle right from start you may have to drive it for about 15 minutes at 50 miles an hour to let it reset itself.. Give it a try,,no cost cant hurt!! Good Luck

thanks Jim ,I did take it out and clean it but I didnt clean the seat.Ill give her a go.Im thinking GTP Dad might be right on the VSS being bad.ITs only 36 bucks .It would be a pretty cheap fix if that cures the problem.Ill keep you posted.

Well,My son got his car fixed.Said he was coming home from work,and it was doing the same old thing.So when he got home he went out with a flashlite(I was in bed),and started looking around.He poped the cover off the fuse box on the drvers side fender.He noticed positve cable coming from the battery was loose.Tightened it up ,problem solved.She runs perfect now.Just want to say thankyou for all the input.

Thanks for letting us know what actually happened. I guess we look at the hard stuff when we should check the simple stuff first. Forgot my own philosophy I guess. Good Luck!