is it the starter?

okay im a bit of a shotgun mechanic ,,you know throw everything ive got at it till it works.. its a 93 park ave. non ultra 3800. it acted like the battery was dying down. (slow cranking) jumped it it runs fine kicks out 14 to 15 volts when running. but im dumb so i replaced the alternator.... was a little slow cranking but still started so i didnt bother with it... then it acted like the battery was dying down again on starting. so i replaced the battery. even with a brand new battery just installed it still cranked super slow. now no response from the starter at all. but ive got all sorts of chimes and whatnot,, bright head and tail lights???? now before i go out and buy a new starter i would love to hear from those of u much wiser than i if this is the right move?... i can turn a wrench but im lost when it comes to wires and electricity. (you know speak slowly and not in big words) but i really need some help. my wife is ready to have a caniption fit with me. :banghead:

Take a few minutes and check all your cables and coneections, just to be sure.

What is the voltage on the battery before you try cranking?

I'm not qualified to answer as a mechanic but I've had your simptoms and it's been the starter drawing too much load. Got a new starter and all was good. I had a tough time getting the starter out and past some hydraulic engine mount. Had to jack the engine only by placing a board under the oil pan. I'm sure that's not by the book...

the voltage before cranking reads about 12v on the cars volt meter. the battery connections are tight and free of corrosion. i read a thread about the resistance chip in the pass key...well the security light was staying on even long after ingnition. well it never went off... the car would not start one day for the wife so she used the remote starter and it fired right up. since then the secuirity light stays on..now its not even turning...like i said it sounded like a weak battery...but im having trouble understanding the whole resistance thing and the measurement of such. i found the plug that is connected to the two wires comming from the steering collum. but with the key inserted not in the on possition. the resistance does not match the resistance from the pellet in the key. not even close... what should i set the meter on??? 20K?? 2K?? 20M?? like i said im lost at this type of stuff....i used to get paid to fix mechanical problems on million dollar muller kurtz assembly machines and i cant figure out an electrical problem on a car i paid 2000. dollars for.... wow i feel stupid
oh by the way the meter says the resistance of the pellet in the key is 2.99 at 20k... did the pellets come in this resistance??? or am i mucking up the works somehow?????

I'm not qualified to answer as a mechanic but I've had your simptoms and it's been the starter drawing too much load. Got a new starter and all was good. I had a tough time getting the starter out and past some hydraulic engine mount. Had to jack the engine only by placing a board under the oil pan. I'm sure that's not by the book...
yep you were right... it was the starter. dont know what year your park ave is but my starter was super easy to slide on out once unbolted, everything works as it used to and the wife is happy with me once again.
thanks to all for the help.
Cort.

just a thought, because it may very well have been the starter. However, I still woudn't rule out a possible VATS problem that may have been 're-set' while the battery was disconnected.

Message to Kenny..I learned my lesson, jacking up the motor by the oil pan...it caused a wrinkle that transferred up to the pan gasket, and had a bad leak..

Yeah, like I said...not by the book. If I have to replace again, I'll post for some help. There was no other way to get the plastic shroud, and therefore access to the mounting bolt towards the front of the car without raising the engine. Mine is a '94 and there was some kind of mounting bracket with a short hydraulic piece in the way. Um... my oil pan is dented but no leaks. Whew!!