Explorer 01 Engine light and O/D light flashing
wraveryexp01
08-10-2005, 06:31 AM
Hello:
Four months ago I purchased a 2001 Explorer and just recently had the check engine light come on. At the same time I noticed that the car seemed to sputter or stall if you will when I was at a light or decelerated in speed. Yesterday the o/d light came on and started flashing. I took it to a trans place after reading my manual and the mechanic there told me after doing a 2 minute computer test that my transmission was locking up because of my torque converter and that it would cost me about 1800 to do a soft rebuild. I took my car home and later that night, I had to drive it again and about 2 minutes into driving the o/d light stopped flashing and just the check engine light stayed on. Driving to work this morning it still stalled, but the flashing light has not returned. Before I let someone take out my transmission, I want to be more informed when I get a second opinion. Any help you can offer would be great. I apologize for being so lengthy. Oh and one more thing, he mentioned something about a TCC code. I never did see the computer for myself to actually know if what he said was accurate, thus the second opinion.
Four months ago I purchased a 2001 Explorer and just recently had the check engine light come on. At the same time I noticed that the car seemed to sputter or stall if you will when I was at a light or decelerated in speed. Yesterday the o/d light came on and started flashing. I took it to a trans place after reading my manual and the mechanic there told me after doing a 2 minute computer test that my transmission was locking up because of my torque converter and that it would cost me about 1800 to do a soft rebuild. I took my car home and later that night, I had to drive it again and about 2 minutes into driving the o/d light stopped flashing and just the check engine light stayed on. Driving to work this morning it still stalled, but the flashing light has not returned. Before I let someone take out my transmission, I want to be more informed when I get a second opinion. Any help you can offer would be great. I apologize for being so lengthy. Oh and one more thing, he mentioned something about a TCC code. I never did see the computer for myself to actually know if what he said was accurate, thus the second opinion.
way2old
08-11-2005, 07:03 PM
If it has a code for a TCC, it is probably the solenoid and not a rebuild. Get exact code for and post back and I will look into the diagnostics and offer more help. Need engine size and body style.
wraveryexp01
08-15-2005, 06:00 AM
Well, come to find out that I took it to a place that was trying to get money. I had the diagnostic redone and it had codes for an O2 sensor and a Fuel Metering code as well. I changed the O2 sensor and the wires and plugs while I was at it. I just don't know what the fuel metering code is about. It keeps coming up but no one seems to know what that means. My Explorer is 2WD V8 engine. I really appreciate your help.
way2old
08-15-2005, 06:48 AM
Post the code number and I will research it for you.
wraveryexp01
08-15-2005, 07:04 AM
It is code PO151 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
way2old
08-15-2005, 07:52 AM
Here ya go. This is only the first 2 steps. Hope this first 2 steps are enough to repair your vehicle. If it is a P0xxx code, it is generic not manufacturers specific. If it is a P1xxx then it is manufacturers specific. You will notice the capitalized letters in the script. This will be necessary to complete repair.
H27 CHECK FOR SOURCE OF POTENTIAL HO2S CONTAMINATION
Investigate the following items as potential sources of HO2S contamination:
Use of unapproved silicon sealers.
Fuel contaminated by silicon additives.
Excessive oil burning (i.e. rings, valve seals and oil overfill).
Glycol (antifreeze) leaking internally in the engine.
Lead contaminated fuel.
Short drive cycles in cold weather.
Use of unapproved cleaning agents.
Were any of the above conditions or concerns found during inspection?
Yes
REPAIR source of contamination. REPLACE HO2S and oil/filter. CLEAR the DTCs. COMPLETE HO2S Monitor Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).
No
If diagnosing DTC P0141 or P0161, GO to H30 . All others: REPLACE PCM.
H28 VERIFY WIRING IS IN PROPER PIN LOCATION
Note: Refer to the PCM connector pin numbers in the beginning of this pinpoint test.
Measure resistance of the HO2S SIG circuit and HO2S Signal Return circuit between the PCM harness connector pin and the HO2S harness connector.
Is the resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes
REPLACE HO2S.
No
REPAIR as necessary.
H27 CHECK FOR SOURCE OF POTENTIAL HO2S CONTAMINATION
Investigate the following items as potential sources of HO2S contamination:
Use of unapproved silicon sealers.
Fuel contaminated by silicon additives.
Excessive oil burning (i.e. rings, valve seals and oil overfill).
Glycol (antifreeze) leaking internally in the engine.
Lead contaminated fuel.
Short drive cycles in cold weather.
Use of unapproved cleaning agents.
Were any of the above conditions or concerns found during inspection?
Yes
REPAIR source of contamination. REPLACE HO2S and oil/filter. CLEAR the DTCs. COMPLETE HO2S Monitor Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).
No
If diagnosing DTC P0141 or P0161, GO to H30 . All others: REPLACE PCM.
H28 VERIFY WIRING IS IN PROPER PIN LOCATION
Note: Refer to the PCM connector pin numbers in the beginning of this pinpoint test.
Measure resistance of the HO2S SIG circuit and HO2S Signal Return circuit between the PCM harness connector pin and the HO2S harness connector.
Is the resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes
REPLACE HO2S.
No
REPAIR as necessary.
wraveryexp01
08-15-2005, 07:56 AM
Im sorry it was P1151.
Are the steps I need to take going to be costly?
Are the steps I need to take going to be costly?
way2old
08-15-2005, 10:30 AM
The DTC is for sensor 1 bank 1 That is for the front sensor on the passenger side. It says the O2 sensor is not switching. Look for a vacuum leak that may cause the sensor to stay lean. If there are no visible or audible vacuum leaks, check the wiring. If wiring is OK, replace the O2 sensor. If you do it yourself, the only item you will need is a volt/ohm meter, wrench to remove O2 sensor(7/8 inch) and the O2 sensor if wiring is OK.
If you have a shop do it, be prepared to pay at least 1 hour labor and the cost of the part. If it is a wiring concern, be prepared to pay the hourly rate for however long it takes to find the problem. So cost is relative to what the problem is and who is doing the repairs.
If you have a shop do it, be prepared to pay at least 1 hour labor and the cost of the part. If it is a wiring concern, be prepared to pay the hourly rate for however long it takes to find the problem. So cost is relative to what the problem is and who is doing the repairs.
Boogieman142
09-13-2005, 10:59 PM
It's prolly the idle air control valve
asemstr
09-13-2005, 11:26 PM
The most common cause of O2 sensor not switching, lean mixture codes are usually issues not related to O2 failures. The most likely cause is a vaccuum leak. Another cause would be a crack in the header that would allow air entry into the exhaust (do you hear a exhaust leak? 5.0 Exsploders are bad about cracks in the header!) The excess oxygen in the exhaust from either leak will cause the PCM to freak-out and practicly flood the engine while trying to remedy a bogus "lean" condition! :2cents: GOOD LUCK!
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