Warning: Revell 2005 Corvette C6

First off all, besides the cheap plastic, this is a great kit with excellent detail and fit, and all the proportions look just "right". That being said...
I just thought I would share this with everyone, since I wish someone would have warned me. I am about to start on my second body for this kit, after melting the first one.
For as many years as I can remember, and as some of you know from reading my past posts, I have built hundreds of Revell-Monogram kits using Duplicolor primers, colors, and clear coats for the finish without a single issue....until now.
Revell has changed their plastic for this kit, and it is much more sensitive than their other offerings. Duplicolor primer melted it like butter. Below are some of the results from testing other sprays on this new plastic:

Duplicolor primers (white,black and gray) and colors- Turns it into molten plastic
Krylon - Almost as bad as the duplicolor, gives it a very rough texture
Testors Metallizers - Same as Krylon
Testors Custom Laquers - Surprisingly, no affect
Testors Enamels - No effect for me, but I`ve heard others have issues
Tamiya Laquers - Same as testors
Plastikote primers (gray atleast) and colors - Work like a champ. However, as of Saturday, there is no suplier locally to me since Pep Boys switched to Duplicolor. :banghead: :banghead:

I have tested all of these on other recent kits: 70 Mustang Boss 302, California Wheels 67 Chevelle, and 2004 Corvette Coupe without issue. All of these kits are labeled "made in China".
Probably the most disappointing it the Testors Metallizers. With this kit, there is plenty of use for the aluminum plate.
I hope this helps someone else.

Duplicolors have been known to do that 50% of the time. This weekend I will be fixing a body for someone because of what happened.

if you go at it light with the duplicolor, it will help to minimize the crazing and can be fixed. it is a PITA but it can be done

1 more reason why im not buying the new c6 kit.....

Duplicolors have been known to do that 50% of the time. This weekend I will be fixing a body for someone because of what happened.

I`ve never had a problem with duplicolor on Revell-Monogram, and this was over atleast a decade (I first tried it in 1988 on a 64 GTO kit). I have had problems with Testors and AMT kits though, as well as sheet styrene.
The plastic is more brittle and breaks off in small splinters or sheets, unlike past Revell-Monogram kits. They are definitely using a different plastic in this kit. I think I may let them know I would gladly pay $1 or $2 more for better plastic!

Duplicolors have been known to do that 50% of the time. This weekend I will be fixing a body for someone because of what happened.

Yeah, that Duplicolor Primer/Sealer he used is evil on plastic-I wish he'd asked me first if it was okay on plastic before spraying a rare body w/it. Great for resin (smooth as Tamiya), but the one time I tried it on plastic it etched badly-you can tell by the smell the stuff is extremely strong. So I stay away from anything Duplicolor unless it's on a resin body or perhaps diecast. I hear many more people praise Plastikote primer. Honestly, w/Tamiya, Gunze, Testors lacquer and Cobra Colors primers I don't need either Duplicolor or Plastikote.

I'm surprised about the Testors metalizers. I'm sure if the parts are primed first (which I normally don't do w/metalizers) the crazing won't happen. I didn't have any issues w/the metalizers/paints I used on my Viper, and it seems to be molded in the same stuff as the Corvette.

Yeah, that Duplicolor Primer/Sealer he used is evil on plastic-I wish he'd asked me first if it was okay on plastic before spraying a rare body w/it.

Come `on guys! I`ve been using this stuff for about 15 years now. I know how it reacts (and smells :D ). This is my first issue with a Revell kit using the same primer I`ve been buying from the same stores and using on hundreds of kits over those 15 years. Something has definitely changed in their plastic for this kit.


Honestly, w/Tamiya, Gunze, Testors lacquer and Cobra Colors primers I don't need either Duplicolor or Plastikote.


The reason I use duplicolor is because it is 100% consistent over all their colors as far as coverage, and you get almost twice the amount for the same price. With clear coat and generic colors, you can use their "SUV" line and get almost 4 times the amount! This really works for me, especially with my contest models, which often have 8-12 coats of clear!
Plus I have never had an issue with thier clear burning through the color at the edges.


I'm surprised about the Testors metalizers.


I agree. I think *alot* of people will be dissapointed by that. Think of all the builders buying this kit that also use metalizers on a regular basis. :(


I used on my Viper, and it seems to be molded in the same stuff as the Corvette.

I would be interested to se how it reacts, as I was thinking of getting this kit. I would love to know the results if you get a chance to try.

Calm down, the sky isn't falling yet :biggrin: .

First of all, I much appreciate the warning, and I'm sure everyone else does-I'll watch closely what happens w/my C6 and as I get further w/my Viper-though I've already sprayed Alclad metalizers on the Viper w/o incident-are you using spray cans or airbrush?

When I referred to "he", it wasn't you, in case that wasn't clear. My friend (a common friend of both me and Mike) nearly ruined an AMT GT90 body using Duplicolor primer/sealer. I had a hood etch very badly from it (also AMT-the resin body that goes w/the hood looks great). It's STRONG stuff, much stronger than the other automotive sandable primers I've used, including Varsity brand. The Duplicolor sprayed beautifully over the resin. I don't doubt you've had good results, but looks like now you're going to have to change your technique or products to adapt-and most likely if you change primers, you won't have the problem anymore with any of the kits you build. Me, Veyron and CADguy have all worked on the latest Revell kits w/o encountering the same problems as you've had. Veyron's C6 came out great, and he didn't mention any paint problems. CADguy's Viper came out superb, and he also didn't mention any paint problems. Both seemed quite happy w/the kits.

I'm willing to spend a bit more on my paint and primer to ensure I have as few problems as possible. I've been airbrushing models for 24 years (starting w/airbrushing automotive touch up paint on models sealed w/Floquil Barrier that you can't even get anymore), and spray painting for over 30 years. I've probably had every paint problem happen that can happen, and learned from those mishaps. I've found what works for me, and am willing to spend the $$ to ensure good paint results as often as possible on as many different plastics as possible...the plastics in Japanese kits that I commonly build can be very sensitive as well w/some of the automotive paints and their thinners-so generally I treat every model like I assume it's going to craze. It's better to know ahead of time what might happen, and plan accordingly (imagine what happens if/when we can't get lacquer anymore... :eek7: ). It's also better not to try to save too many pennies on the one part of the model that's the most visible-I don't like playing Russian Roulette w/paint. With Tamiya/Gunze/Cobra Colors/Black Gold and even Testors primers and paints, I feel like I get my money's worth-in case of Tamiya and Gunze, I supplement their spray primers w/bottles of primer which are also more economical.

I guess if/when you find Plastikote primer, stock up on it. Try all the auto parts stores and hardware stores, you'll find it somewhere. You might even try an auto paint jobber; they'll generally carry cans of auto primer. As long as it says "sandable", they've always worked well for me-but it's best to test it on something not too valuable. I've heard Evercoat has a great sandable primer; Sherwin Williams and Napa both have had great sandable auto primer in the past at least.

I had a problem using Alclad on the front engine cover piece that was not primed,however I did prime the main engine/tranny parts and had no problem.Also primed the body with testors lacquer primer and used Tamiya cans with no problem .

Calm down, the sky isn't falling yet :biggrin: .


???????

:smokin:
I`m ok...it`s not a problem. I wasn`t really worked up over anything.
You and I probably have alot of the same experiences since we`ve been doing this so long, and I am sure we both experiment a little more than usual. I agree with most :iceslolan of what you say, really. I just want everyone to know that this is a new problem, and unfortunately for me, that means my entire finishing process will have to change. Atleast if Revell continues using this plastic.
The two C6 kits I have both have this problem.

Hey guys! I am building a C6 right now and had absolutely no problems! I used Duplicolor grey primer, duplicolor black cherry metallic and clearcoat. What I did was sanded the whole body with 320 really really good and washed it with hot water and soap...just hand soap. I had no reactions at all. I don't see what the problem is. I mean....just take your time and you won't have any problems. That being said I did know about the problems before I built it. So I went a step further so I wouldnt have to buy another kit....which I am doing BTW because this kit is such a joy to build and its a beautiful vehicle!

-Chris

My first coat of Krylon primer didn't look to hot on the C6, but I sanded the heck out of it, threw another coat on and sprayed it with some pretty harsh automotive paint and it looked fine up to six hours later, when I left town...

I had absolutely NO problems with the Viper, I sprayed two coats of Krylon white primer, two mists and two wet coats of nail polish all within about a 3 hour period and it came out flawless.

I am, however, pretty disappointed with the quality of the plastic; while trying to gently cut the part away from the tree (forget just breaking it off) my knife found a grain in the plastic or something and skinned a good chunk off one of the C6's seats. I seriously hope Revell fixes this problem before coming out with the '05 Mustang or Ford GT...

I'm in the crowd that can't really afford the expensive paints. If all the new kits are gonna come out noncompatible with Krylon, guess I'll have to start in on the stockpile (before you get on my case for spending all my money on kits, most were either $3 clearance kits or Christmas presents!)

Hey guys! I am building a C6 right now and had absolutely no problems! I used Duplicolor grey primer, duplicolor black cherry metallic and clearcoat. What I did was sanded the whole body with 320 really really good and washed it with hot water and soap...just hand soap. I had no reactions at all. I don't see what the problem is. I mean....just take your time and you won't have any problems.

-Chris

Chris,
Many of us are already having problems because this is a different plastic compound. See the first thread here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=438408
For me and many of the other experienced builders here, sanding the body well is a given on every project. We still are having problems. I had the same issues on both of my kits. Another person posted that they had problems with five kits they had.
However, it is interesting that you are having no problems at all. I wonder if Revell switched plastic mid-production.
I highly suggest everyone test on a sprue or the removable top if you are not going to use it. This is even if you are planning to use your "tried and true" method.

Sorry about your car melting like butter. LOL but I would actually like to see it. I dont understand why it didnt work for you though

I have seen this before with duplicolour.Mate was building an original issue Monogram 1970 GTX(green plastic) and it melted the top layer of plastic. you were able to peel up the plastic with your finger nail.he uses duplicolour almost exclusivley,same as you.The only thing we could think of is that some batckes are hotter than others.

that sucks dude. how can you tell if the primer/paint will be too hot for your model?

You can't.I buy my primer in litre cans and shoot through an air brush.That way I add the primer to the consistancy I want.Cans are more convenient but they're too expensive,especially when they might cook the plastic.