Upgading transmission
gtracer1
08-09-2005, 07:42 PM
Recently I burnt out a stage 1 clutch in my 91 celica gt doing burn outs in a circle. I thinking about putting in a stage 2 clutch but first I think I should upgrade the transmission from stock. Any suggestions?
LaYzIeNoY
08-22-2005, 01:13 AM
don't be doing burn outs in a circle
lol, jk jk, uhh, i'm pretty sure the stock tranny should be able to hold a decent amount of power, if you need to rebuidl it
i havn't encountered to many places that upgrade trannys, but the ones i have seen seems to cost more than some cars are worth
best things i could offer up would be to not burnout as much, and get a good quality clutch,
lol, jk jk, uhh, i'm pretty sure the stock tranny should be able to hold a decent amount of power, if you need to rebuidl it
i havn't encountered to many places that upgrade trannys, but the ones i have seen seems to cost more than some cars are worth
best things i could offer up would be to not burnout as much, and get a good quality clutch,
91 Celica St
08-22-2005, 08:06 PM
get a better clutch, and a upgraded flywheel, that should at least save your tranny a bit more, you dont necessarly need a new tranny unless yours is grinding alot....like mine :( i have no 2nd gear and the 3rd gear syncro is going
jaybratt
08-24-2005, 04:18 AM
Your stock tranny, as long as it is in good shape, can handle a lot, it is the clutches that do go out easily. My gt4 has a Dual Friction Centerforce clutch, stage 3 I believe. It works excellently. Do that and get an ultralite flywheel, look for a tough one that is like 10 lbs. Then you will be able to do burnouts in a circle. Good luck,
91 Celica St
08-24-2005, 05:01 PM
yea but watch out in getting a really light flywheel, they become excessivly annoying to drive with, your revvs go up and down ALOT faster....
example, w/ a stock fly, if you punch it while in nutral to try and get it to revv to 6400 to just show off how good yoru car sounds, itll take lets say 4 seconds to get to redline and 6 seconds to get back to idel
now with a lihgt flywheel - (12 pounders arent taht bad but still irritating, 10 are fucking annoying, and 8 pounders like the one i have are just FUCKING ANNOYING)itll only take about 3 seconds to get to redline and about 2 to drop back down to idel, thats fucking irritating when your drivind around town or stuck in traffic. you have to heel and toe downshift on EVERY downshift, and upshifting you preetty much have to shift as fast as you can or revv it while up shifting to trty and match the rpms.. even while driving in the city. Not only taht if you ever dont match the rmps.....Im sure ALL of you seen someone that sucks balls at driving stick jerk the shit out of their car, take that, times it by 10, and thats what it will look like if you dont match the rpm's
pretty much, if you do get a lighteneed flywheel, i would only adive getting a 12 pound one if your only going to end up with like 200-300 HP, a 10 if your looking to try to revv highg and dip into like 12's or 11's and a 8 lb if your looking for a track car....they really do becoem excessivly annoying to drive with on the street, most track cars that run 12's and below dont even have lightened flywheels because they are incredibly annoying to drive and shift with...thats just a little somthign to keep in mind if you do get one
if yoru only getting I/H/E and some otehr minor crap, i owuldnt suggest getting one.... i only would if you were doing somethig nlike me, pretty much buiilding a race motor capable of revving to 9 G's and shit like that...iyou DEFINATLY should at least drive a car w a light flywheel before buying one to see how they feel
example, w/ a stock fly, if you punch it while in nutral to try and get it to revv to 6400 to just show off how good yoru car sounds, itll take lets say 4 seconds to get to redline and 6 seconds to get back to idel
now with a lihgt flywheel - (12 pounders arent taht bad but still irritating, 10 are fucking annoying, and 8 pounders like the one i have are just FUCKING ANNOYING)itll only take about 3 seconds to get to redline and about 2 to drop back down to idel, thats fucking irritating when your drivind around town or stuck in traffic. you have to heel and toe downshift on EVERY downshift, and upshifting you preetty much have to shift as fast as you can or revv it while up shifting to trty and match the rpms.. even while driving in the city. Not only taht if you ever dont match the rmps.....Im sure ALL of you seen someone that sucks balls at driving stick jerk the shit out of their car, take that, times it by 10, and thats what it will look like if you dont match the rpm's
pretty much, if you do get a lighteneed flywheel, i would only adive getting a 12 pound one if your only going to end up with like 200-300 HP, a 10 if your looking to try to revv highg and dip into like 12's or 11's and a 8 lb if your looking for a track car....they really do becoem excessivly annoying to drive with on the street, most track cars that run 12's and below dont even have lightened flywheels because they are incredibly annoying to drive and shift with...thats just a little somthign to keep in mind if you do get one
if yoru only getting I/H/E and some otehr minor crap, i owuldnt suggest getting one.... i only would if you were doing somethig nlike me, pretty much buiilding a race motor capable of revving to 9 G's and shit like that...iyou DEFINATLY should at least drive a car w a light flywheel before buying one to see how they feel
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